Fun things to do in Iloilo City

Proceeding to the left of Plazoleta Gay takes you to JM Basa St., known as Calle Real in the Spanish era. This is a four-lane winding strip of stand-alone shop houses, now mostly owned by Filipino-Chinese merchant families.

Most buildings along JM Basa St. were built during the American colonial days (1900s-1930s). One my personal favorites is the Celso Ledesma Bldg built in 1923 - not for its architecture, but for one of its shops - The Commoner - the best place to get cheap office and school supplies. As a student (spent my grade and high school years in Iloilo City), I always looked forward to shopping for my supplies every school opening (usually June in the Philippines). Particularly enjoyed shopping for art supplies - crayons, watercolors, pastels - for my art classes. The colors were so mesmerizing.

I don't know when The Commoner began operating, but I was told that it was already in existence when my father was just a student! Imagine how many rolls of pad paper it had sold, how many pencils, pens, and my personal favorite - crayons.

1 more image

Present-day old downtown Iloilo - mainly the streets of JM Basa and Iznart - retains much its colonial character, albeit most of the buildings require much much-needed repairs and refurbishing.

A PERSONAL NOTE: My late maternal grandmother, complete with her Spanish accent, always insisted on calling JM Basa St by its old Spanish name, Calle Real. (I love you lola!)

Most of the buildings that stand today were built during the height of the American colonial era (c. 1900-1930), at a time when Iloilo was a key trading port, mainly for the export of sugar to the global markets.

AN INTERESTING SIDEBAR: Much of the fortunes (and later on, misfortunes) of the wealthy clans of Iloilo and neighboring Negros Occidental were built on the booming sugar industry, until the early-1980s when it all collapsed, leaving the local economies, especially that of more sugar-dependent Negros Occidental, in tatters.

At the center of downtown Iloilo stands Plazoleta Gay, a rather unremarkable white obelisk-like structure with a dove perched on top.

But the real beauty of this monument (and place) is not in its physical form, but in its historical significance. It was where freedom-loving llonggos congregated at the height of People Power Revolution in February 1986 to denounce the Marcos dictatorship and demand its ouster (which eventually catapulted Corazon Aquino to the presidency, after the Marcoses fled to Hawaii on 25 February 1986).

As an 11-year old kid then, I had witnessed this historic event while munching my favorite waffle hotdogs, which were sold at a small kiosk beside this historic monument.

Now, as I pass through this part of the city, the cries of freedom-loving Ilonggos still reverberate, and in some ways, still hold true - freedom from the tyranny of poverty, from the oppressive ways of some big businesses, and demands for a decent and clean government.

There is no better way to start your tour of Iloilo than to visit its repository of cultural and historical heritage - the Museo Iloilo.

Although the museum has been in a state of disrepair, (not to mention inadequate maintenance) it contains a good selection of exhibits that would transport visitor to the province's and city's past - to witness the daily lives of the pre-historic Ati tribes, believed to be the island's first human inhabitants, to experience the rich Spanish colonial heritage (mainly religious objects and artifacts), and to witness the effects of American occupation.

The museum also from time to time features modern works of Ilonggo and visiting artists -providing a dynamic link between the past and present. The building itself, designed along modern lines, provides a striking contrast with the pre-historic and ancient exhibits therein.

Entrance fee is at 15 pesos (perhaps high time for an increase to fund much-needed repairs and maintain the building and exhibits in good condition!).

3 more images

Jaro, a suburb of Ilolilo City, is a major archdiocese in the predominantly Roman Catholic Phillipines, encompassing the whole of the Western Visayas region.

TRIVIA: Jaro's former archbishop, now-deceased Jaime Cardinal Sin, went on to become the Archbishop of Manila, which is regarded as the head of the Roman Catholic clergy in the Philippines. Historically, he played a major role in ousting Ferdinand Marcos in 1986, when he called the Catholic faithful to congregate in EDSA (a major thoroughfare in Metro Manila) to support the rebellion of then Gen. Fidel Ramos, who later on became president, and then Minister of Defence, Juan Ponce-Enrile.

As such, the Jaro Cathedral, which is the seat of the Jaro Archdiocese, is a major religious landmark in the country, and a must-see for visitors in Iloilo.

Architecturally, it pales in comparison with Molo Church, but is nevertheless, a grand cathedral made of local limestone. The exterior walls used to be covered with painted, modern concrete, which was later removed to expose their original limestone (good move!) facade and lend the church a more old-age aura.

A distinguishing feature of this cathedral from others is its belfry, which was built separately apart from the cathedral (the belfry is featured in a separate article below).

Further down JM Basa St., closer to the docks stands Regent Theater. What used to be a good, wholesome cinema housed in an elegant classical building, sadly, now features cheap skin flicks (as shown in the picture - at least when the last time I was in Iloilo).

The building constructed in 1928, retained most its original facade with the ubiquitous classical columns when it was remodeled in the late 1980s.

I remember watching good local and English movies in this old cinema with its uniquely reclining seats (probably still unmatched in Iloilo).

I wish there is a rethinking of the cinema's film offerings so that it could live up to its regal and noble name.

A modern art piece on display at the Museo Iloilo.

In addition to being a repository of Iloilo's culture and history, the museum, from time to time, features contemporary works of local and visiting artists - providing a venue for the promotion of Ilonggo arts and culture, for everyone to enjoy.

2 more images

Jaro's Cathedral is one of the few churches in the Philippines whose belfry is detached from the main church building. The original structure was destroyed in the earthquake of 1948, but had since been rebuilt, albeit with poor workmanship.

From a plane, the belfry is very much visible and an ubiquitous signal to your impending arrival to what is one of the most devoutly Roman Catholic cities in the Philippines.

Life-sized dioramas depicting life of the indigenous inhabitants - the Negritos or Atis in the local dialect - of Panay island, within which Iloilo is situated.

Here, the nomadic Atis are depicted as hunters and gatherers, whose Panay island population had dwindled to about 4,000 as of 1999.