Andong Travel Guide

  HahoeMaeul under a blanket of rain
by DSwede
 
  • HahoeMaeul under a blanket of rain
      HahoeMaeul under a blanket of rain
    by DSwede
  • Fishing in the river by push stick
      Fishing in the river by push stick
    by DSwede
  •   Andong
    by akikonomu
  •   Andong
    by akikonomu
  •   Andong
    by akikonomu
 

Pro

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 The folk villages are genuine, not fabricated. 


Con

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 Slow train or bus is the only way to access Andong. 


In a nutshell

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 A historic city with folk villages, but requires patience to go back and forth between all the places. 

 

Explore Andong

Things to Do  

Masks at your feet

Masks at your feet, Andong

 DSwede Says:  Particularly in the pedestrian streets near Eumsikui-Geori ("Food street") and the Cultural street (highlighted on most tourist maps), there are many different types of masks presented in the tiles of the streets. Most people walk right over them and do not take notice.I saw... 

Maskdance Festival

Maskdance Festival, Andong

 DSwede Says:  Some others have already commented on the festival, so here's a few pieces of information that I feel were omitted. The Festival lasts 10 days, starting in late September and continuing through the first week of October.Information booths with maps, schedules of events and... 

Mind the wood totems "Changsung"

Mind the wood totems "Changsung", Andong

 DSwede Says:  Outside of Andong, the Changsung (wood totems or guard posts) are much less common, but inside the area, you will find them everywhere.Upon the entrance to HahoeMaeul is one of the best samples to pick from. There are maybe 100 of them, ranging in styles and sizes.These... 

Ocheon Remains (traditional village)

Ocheon Remains (traditional village), Andong

 DSwede Says:  Back in 1974, when the waters of the lake behind the dam would have drowned this piece of history forever, the remains of the town Ocheongunjari were moved to their present location.The buildings may have been repaired along the way, but much of them are still original. This... 

Downtown

Downtown, Andong

 akikonomu Says:  Andong downtown is fairly compact and gives you a taste of what semi-urban Korea might be about. Across the road from the train station, turn right and walk on until you come to the "Food Street", a street where many local restaurants line both sides. Continue walking down... 

Mask Madness - The Andong Mask Museum

Mask Madness - The Andong Mask Museum, Andong

 Hooglyboo Says:  Right outside the Hahoe Village is the Andong Mask Museum. Inside is a fairly extensive collection of masks from around Korea and the world. There's also a small giftshop. Its small but pleasant, and the owners are very knowledgeable about mask culture (the husband carves... 

Restaurants  

Andong Gwan: Food for all palates

Andong Gwan: Food for all palates, Andong

 DSwede Says:  Andong Gwan ("Andong Place") is one of many restaurants on Restaurant Road / Food Street. It has a large variety of Korean dishes, going from mild rice dishes to spicy meats. Menus are provided with English translations. The Yeongbang bibimbab was good, as was the udon... 

Chaesik Sarang: Pure Vegetarian in Andong!

Chaesik Sarang: Pure Vegetarian in Andong!, Andong

 Andonger Says:  This is a small but clean and friendly restaurant serving tasty pure vegetarian meals. The food is generally Korean, but there are also veggie burgers and steaks available. Being the only such restaurant in the province, there is a small but loyal clientele, who are all too... 

Keumgangsan: Where's the beef? Right here!

Keumgangsan: Where's the beef?  Right here!, Andong

 Hooglyboo Says:  This is the place where you take people to impress them . . .it is very upscale, with prices to match. Not only do they claim only to serve beef only from Korea, it's all from Andong. Since the beef from Andong is fairly reknowned in Korea, that's quite something. Like most... 

Heot Jesa Bap: Fake Rice for Dead People ...

Heot Jesa Bap: Fake Rice for Dead People ..., Andong

 Hooglyboo Says:  Many Koreans all over the country hold traditional confucian memorial services (jesa) for their ancestors. As part of the ceremony, a large variety of foods are "served" to the dead, and afterwards to the living participants. Obviously this means that few visitors to Korea... 

Nightlife  

Dude, Where's My Horsehair Hat?
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2.5 out of 5 starsHelpfulness

Hooglyboo 33 reviews

There are a few nightclubs scattered hither and yon around Andong, most noteably Canberra and Arabian Nights. They're a different animal than typical western-style nightclubs . . .instead of a cover fee you have to purchase a table (around 30,000 won in most clubs) which will come with a set amount of side dishes and alcohol. If you want something more or different, expect to pay through the nose. There will also be truely atrocious DJ's, strange decor, and possibly some topless foreign (usually Russian) dancers. Koreans nearly always go these places in groups, and so should you - preferably with Korean friends (once in a blue moon foreigners have trouble getting in, especially foreign men) Ladies, be aware that some of them also function as "booking" clubs, meaning that waiters may drag you over and make you sit with some random guys who will buy any drinks you consume with them and pay the waiter a gratuity for having brought you by. Also expect local gangsters cheap suits (mostly harmless). Many of these clubs feel a bit like a sleezy Sinatra/Ratpack dream come to life.
UPDATE - there's a new nightclub called BLUESKY . . .look for it down the road from the bus station.

Dress Code: Not sloppy. Jeans may keep you out, but then again this is Andong and it probably won't make a difference. Grunge won't work, but just about anything else will pass. Koreans, especially the women, will of course be dressed to the nines. Men, if you have any shiny faux-40's style pinstripe suits, now's the time to wear them . . .

Updated Jan 26, 2004

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Transportation  

Getting to/from Andong by public transit

Getting to/from Andong by public transit, Andong

 DSwede Says:  Andong is north of Deagu and there is no real express connection from either Seoul or from Busan. Most frequent and express connections are through Daegu. Therefore I have to say, it is not really that convenient from either.By bus:To/From Seoul - you can find a direct bus... 

New Bus Terminal

New Bus Terminal, Andong

 infogoddess Says:  The Express bus terminal is no longer downtown but now located in the western part of the city. To get downtown you will need to take a taxi or a local bus. Buses #1 and #2 go to the train station, and take about 20-30 minutes, 1200 won. 

Arriving in Andong

Arriving in Andong, Andong

 Hooglyboo Says:  There are three ways to arrive in Andong really . . .you can rent a car and drive here (though only a suicidal fool would try that method), take a bus, or a train. Both the bus and train terminal for Andong are on the same street, central to downtown and just north of the... 

Shopping  

Andong Soju: Lighter fluid for the loved ones . . .
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Hooglyboo 33 reviews

Admittedly, you can get Andong Soju all over town. You can even find it (at mildly inflated prices) in Seoul. However, if you buy directly from the family that makes the famous "folk" soju, you'll have the best selection.

What to buy: They carry only the special "folk" soju made Jo Ok-hwa (Gyeongsangbukdo Intangible Cultural Asset #12, Master of Korean Traditional Food #20) This is the special wonderful famous stuff . . .admittedly with a price to match. The real benefit of this place is that in addition to bottles of various sizes (the smallest being 400mL, the largest 800) they have special gift sets including cups, nice boxes, etc.

What to pay: $10-75
It's about 15,000 won for a 400mL bottle, 25,000 for the 800mL

Written Jan 26, 2004

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Warnings and Dangers  

Surveys
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1.5 out of 5 starsHelpfulness

Carino 833 reviews

I just spend about 90 minutes at the Mask Dance Festival and was questioned 3 times! I started to refuse any question after this.

They usually ask foreigner and the problem is, that there are not a lot of foreigners.

Just stay kind and say that you allready took part at the survey.

Written Oct 20, 2003

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Tourist Traps  

Hahoe Malled, or Mind the Keychains
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Hooglyboo 33 reviews
Hahoe Maeul Trinket Stand

There are lots and lots of trinket stands selling overpriced keychains and fake Hahoe Masks. If you're going to buy a Hahoe Mask, yes, Hahoe Village is a good place to buy it BUT be sure if you're paying alot of money for it that it isn't just some mass produced resin knock-off. The tourist stands at the enterance to the village are especially bad - the masks being sold there only vaguely resemble the real thing (wrong colors, shape, poor construction, etc.) Pretty much everything at these stands is the same as all the other cheap stuff to take home that you'll find everywhere else.

Unique Suggestions: If you're going to buy a fake, there's no reason to haul it all the way from Hahoe Village. Buy it in town . . .or in Pusan . . .or in Seoul! They sell them EVERYWHERE in Korea, so there's no reason to buy an overpriced one just because you're in Andong. Unless you're getting one of the REAL, hand-carved masks, it was probably mass manufactured somewhere else.

Fun Alternatives: Pay out the nose for a real, carved wooden mask . . .another good place to investigate the Hahoe Mask Dance is at the Hahoe Mask Dance Preservation Society downtown. It's down the same road as the reconstructed traditional "city hall" and the real city hall. Go to the three way intersection, and it's right next to the shoe store on the corner.

Updated Jun 8, 2003

Related to:
 Family Travel

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What to Pack  

When they say there are 4 seasons in Korea . . .
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2.5 out of 5 starsHelpfulness

Hooglyboo 33 reviews

Clothing/Shoes/Weather Gear: Ladies and Germs, Korea is COLD in winter and HOT in summer. Andong is bitterly cold and dry during the winter months, so you'll want warm clothes - we're talking heavy coats, gloves, the works. There's not much humidity or percipitation either, so you might want to put a bowl of water or a damp towel out at night. In combination with the heated floors you'll be able to humidify your room. During the summer there's PLENTY of humidity and heat to make up for it. Despite the heat, consider dressing conservatively, although the locals are pretty used to foreigners dressing oddly.

Toiletries and Medical Supplies: Pretty much all the toiletries you could need are available here, and most common medicines are available from pharmacies. Ladies, if you need tampons, you can find them only at pharmacies, but pads are widely available in most mini-marts and grocery stores.

Written Jan 26, 2004

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Off The Beaten Path  

Jirye Village

Jirye Village, Andong

 akikonomu Says:  45 minutes away from downtown Andong, Jirye village serves as a point of interest and you are also able to stay there. If you stay there, the owner Mr Kim can pick you up from the train station at around 5pm. The car ride brings you across the bridge spanning the Dam,... 

Taesamyo Confucian Shrine

Taesamyo Confucian Shrine, Andong

 Hooglyboo Says:  Just north of the downtown square is a shrine to the founders of three local clans. There's an eclectic collection of buildings, plus the shrine proper. A couple of old guys apparently live here, and if you're lucky they'll unlock some of the buildings and show you around.... 

Comments

Map of Andong