Mari and I had the opportunity to enter a traditional house in the backstreets of Istaravshan. We befriened a man who invited us back to his house for lunch. I didn't realise he was an ethnic Uzbek until I asked if we could take a family photo. One of the little girls went running off and came back with the cap. Although Leninabad Oblast is nominally Tajik territory it is majority ethnic Uzbek.
As very few foreigners make it to Istaravshan if you head into the narroww alleys you will soon be leading the worlds longest conga line.