I found it very much amazing to be that close to this mysterious and famous country. It is literally a stone throw away (provided you get the stone threwn over the river). Khorog’s airport is located north of town, directly at river Panj, the one that separates Tajikistan’s Pamirs here from Afghanistan. It was a weird and exciting feeling to land...more
The botanical garden was something very much interesting to visit while I was here. LP said that it is the second highest in the world, at 3900 m (all other sources I found said the same, but they most probably have only copied LP). It cannot be that high, as Khorog is 2200 m, and this would have meant a difference of 1700 m, which was simply not...more
As I was a bit longer in Khorog than originally planned, I did see a lot of this charming town. One of the real highlights was the visit in the little museum. Well, little is not exactly true, as it is bigger than one would expect a museum in such a little town. It has a lot of objects from the very early days of settling in Pamirs, and shows quite...more
Khorog has a lot places to grab food but not much restaurants (or they were hidden). LP lists one I did not find (Alyosh), but I found 2 others where I liked the food. Unfortunately they didn’ have signs, and with my inability to speak Russian, I even could not ask for the name (plus I forgot to take photos).
One which had lovely food was on Lenin street (southern side), some stairs down from the broadwalk. It had a singn for coffee = кофе (but remember, coffee does mean it is a place to have something to drink, not necessarily coffee). Dinner was very reasonable, a plate with noodles for only approx. 2 USD.
The other one I was having dinner as well is located in Gagarin street (on its southern side), some 300 m away from the car bridge. It also did not have any sign, but you could smell the shashlyk on the grill. It had white-blue striped blinds around the seating area (to protect the guests from street dust). Shashlyk plus tea was around 3 USD.
Yes, there are several stores to buy food in Khorog, but the best is without doubt, the bazaar. Here you get all you need for your travels or trekking along the Pamir highway. It is wise to do food shopping here, as on the way, you will most probably not be able to get food along the road until Murghab. Well, yes, you can get, but very much limited. For my trip there was nothing I didn’t get here. I bought sugar, nescafe, soup, milk powder, onions, sausage, noodles (they also have the chinese type noodles, which make perfect “filling” with soup), tomato concentrates for noodles, etc.
There is a lunch section as well, where you can buy all these delicious fresh made food, like samosas, or have some plov, or yoghurt. 6 samosas were only 2 som = 0,60 USD (at the time of my travel, mid 2006).
The best of all – there is a bar, a kind of ice cream bar at the eastern end of the bazaar (directly at Lenin street), where the lady behind the counter speaks perfect English ! It was so much fun, adressing her in broken Russian words – and she replied in Engilsh with a funny look like “why don’t you say what you mean ?”.
Prices (all over town) for the typical stuff, you’ll need:
1,5 l water bottle: 1,5 – 2 som (try and get the Panj water – the best I ever had anywhere on the planet – fresh and only taste of water!);
0,5 l of beer: 5 som.
What to buy: And if you are in need of a pharmacy - look for the sign аптхка, just like in the photo. There are a lot pharmacies in Khorog, I think, I did see 4 (but I wasn't everywhere).
Prices are very cheap, I got some activated coal tablets, 10 for around 20 Eurocent !
I have already explained the necessity = MUST to get registered with the Tajik officials on my Takikistan page. It is a waste of time to do it in Dushanbe (will take long and is quite buerocratic). If you are heading to Pamirs anyhow, the best place to get your stamp is in Khorog. The police here is friendly and it takes only some minutes (less, if...more
From what I could read in our forums, “my” German Trekkingforum and other websites, most travellers use Khorog only as the western base for travelling along the Pamir Highway. This is a shame, as it is definitely worthwile to stay here a bit longer.I was in the … well, depending on the point of view, “lucky” position to have to stay here a bit...more
Hauser map and LP have village maps of Khorog, so I could not place them here (maybe I would have gotten permission from Markus Hauser, but I didn’t ask), so I made one in powerpoint. It is easy, as Khorog has 2 main roads, north and south of Gunt river. The northern one is Lenin street and the southern one is Gagarin street. These streets are...more