The best place to enjoy Uzbek folklore dances and performances in the evening is Registan’s Sher Dor Medressa. I didn’t watch, but had a peek inside when they were preparing the show (another reason to come back :-)
Spontaneous “nightlife” however, is much more fun, but very much unpredictable. I had a fantastic and fun evening in restaurant Marco Polo (at the crossing of Dagbitskaya and Registan), when suddenly a group of middle aged women, who celebrated a birthday there, started to dance and invited us foreigners to join. We did laugh much, although didn’t understand any word of the other – but smile is an international language. I regret very much that I didn’t think to pick up the camera and make pictures, but I was too much concentrated on following the steps, the ladies showed me.
Walking around Registan at night can be lovely, too – Sher Dor Medressa is illuminated with colorful spotlights.
Dress Code: Hm, dresscode ? I would say, for the folklore night anything would be fine, however, according to the general dresscode for Uzbekistan; no too much flesh please !
I decided to disobey my LP and venture out into the Central Asian night. I did leave my wife behind at the B&B though. Samarkand looked busier at night than during the day and obviously not a tourist in sight. When I approached the Registan there were maybe 20 children playing soccer (many of whom came to chat when they saw my camera), women chatting, men laughing. It seemed to me as if it was there time away from the allof tourists that swarm over the town. I took a couple of pictures and then left them to their socialising.
Dress Code: Anything other than a bikini should be okay.
There is not really much nightlife in Samarkand, at least if you expect bars and discos.
But there is a nice "sound and light" show at the Registan Square. They light the mosques and madrassas and a recorded voice tells you about the story of the place back when it was a stop in the Silk Road.