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 Which one shall we see? by TheWanderingCamel Under the Soviets, every city with a population of one million or more had an opera house built. Tashkent's Alisher Navoi Opera House is an elegant building standing in the middle of a large square opposite the Tashkent Palace Hotel. The arcaded facade opens into an impressive interior succession of foyers and reception rooms decorated in traditional Uzbeck style. With tickets at an amazingly cheap $1.50 each, the nightly performances of opera or ballet (they usually alternate) are both a terrific bargain and great entertainment. The monthly programme on this billboard includes The Barber of Seville, Rigoletto, Evgeny Onegin, Faust, Carmen and more - an operatic feast indeed. Performances start very early, 6 or 7 oc'clock, depending on the day. Tickets are available from the ticket booth tucked away in one of the facade pillars. Buy your ticket there - hotels and travel agents will mark them up considerably. You will be shown to your seat by one of the somewhat bossy usherettes, who may have an English translation of the programme for sale. Leave a Comment Address: Ataturk Street
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 City scenes by TheWanderingCamel Read the guidebooks and you would think Tashkent was a place to miss. Not so! If you arrive in Uzbekistan by air, you will land here, the only city with an international airport. Do allow yourself a couple of days at the very least to get to know the city. It may not have the allure of Samarkand or the romance of Bukhara, but it is both interesting and attractive with good museums, a huge and bustling market, lovely parks, one of the only two functioning madrassas in Uzbekistan and a charming, unhurried air about the wide tree-lined avenues of the new city. Behind the Choysu market you'll find the quiet lanes and alleyways of the remnants of the old city and in the streets around the opera house booksellers and newstands have stalls set up under the trees. The metro system (the only one in Central Asia) makes it easy to get around, and taxis are cheap. Most of the main sights are within an easy stroll of one another. Leave a Comment
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 Camel train by TheWanderingCamel Samarkand, the name alone speaks of fabled mystery and romance. Most famous of all the cities of the Silk Route, the city has inspired poets and travellers alike with the allure of its magical name and the exotic image it conjures up. Situated in fertile oasis on the edge of the Kyzyl Desert and backed by the Pamir-Alay mountains, today's Samarkand is a pleasant, modern city with lovely shady avenues and parks, the usual Central Asian/Soviet mix in a city this size of apartments and factories, university, opera house, a good museum and a bustling bazaar. Times past saw Samarkand the centre of Transoxiana, the desired prize of conquest for Alexander and Ghengis Khan and, most of all, for Temur and his descendants - The Mirror of the World, The Garden of the Soul, The Centre of the Universe. Samarkand was famed for its beauty long before Temur made it his capital in1370 but it is the buildings that he and the short-lived Timurid dynasty he founded left behind that leave the visitor awed with their splendour and majesty. The great monuments of Samarkand were all built within a few decades, after that power moved from here to Bukhara and the city sank in to a decline that saw it isolated and neglected for centuries. Soviet expansion brought new life to the city and an enthusiastic (if sometimes questionable) restoration of the magnificent mosques, madrassas and mausoleums that give today's tourists a glimpse of what a magnificent place this must have been. Only a few remain, the palaces, caravanserais and domed trading halls have all disappeared but, sit in the square of the Registan as the setting sun casts deep shadows and turns the glazed ceramic facade of the Shir Dor Madrassa in the Registan Square to molten gold and you cannot help but murmur to yourself: "When shadows pass gigantic on the sand And softly through the silence beat the bells Along the Golden Road to Samarkand" J E Flecker, 'Hassan" leyle Leave a Comment
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 Faith and trade by TheWanderingCamel Six to seven hours drive across the desert from Khiva, in the heart of an enormous oasis, lies Bukhara. The fertility of this oasis combined with its position at the crossroads of the great trade routes of Central Asia, has kept Bukhara alive, if not always thriving, through the centuries and of all the cities of Uzbekistan , this is the one with the most layers of history waiting to be explored. The 19th century British stateman and Viceroy of India, Lord Curzon, called Bukhara "the most interesting city in the world" and among Muslims it was known as 'the Holy, the Noble, the Dome of Islam". Those days of glory are long gone, but there can be no doubt that Bukhara remains one of the most romantic cities anywhere in the world. From the massive walls of the old citadel - known as the Ark, to the fabulously tile-bedecked and domed buildings standing cheek by jowl all around the old city, centering on the lovely mulberry-tree ringed pool of the Lyab-i Khauz where the old men still gather to while away the days with talk and maybe a game of chess, Bukhara quietly holds on to the ways of life that have prevailed here through invasion, decline and its latest incarnation as the restored trading centre of the country as tourism brings new customers to its ancient trading domes and the small shops that fill the cells of the madrassas where once young men studied the Koran. The city's importance as a religious centre is renewed as well, with the biggest of Central Asia's seminary attracting students and Muslim visitors alike. leyle Leave a Comment
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 Khiva's tallest minaret by TheWanderingCamel Soaring high above the ancient buildings of Khiva, the Islam Khodja minaret is actually the newest of all the buildings in this extraordinary place. Completed in only 1910, It was the last of the architectural wonders of all Central Asia's khanates to be built -and it too has a typically bloody history. Commissioned by a man renowned and loved for his generosity, it was not finished before he was assassinated and, in a final barbarous act, the architect was buried alive on the orders of the khan to cover up his own complicity in the benefactor's murder. The minaret is 146 feet high, just 6 feet short of Central Asia's tallest, the Kalon minaret in Bukhara. Climbing the 118 stairs will give you a fantastic view of the surrounding country, but if, like us, you are there in 38 degs of heat, you may not feel up to it! leyle Leave a Comment
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 The Great River by TheWanderingCamel The Amu-Darya is the modern name of the River Oxus. Transoxiania - the land across the Oxus - was the historical name for the vast region stretching from the edge of the known world of Persia and the Ottoman Empire into the great void of Asia - lands of desert and steppe lying before the mysterious world of China. The wealth of precious materials that came out of these lands via the caravans of Silk Route was enormous, wonderfully exotic and much sought after but few people managed to make their way to the great cities east of the river. Those that did brought back tales of green and fertile oases in the desert filled with wondrous buildings, beautiful gardens, fabulous bazaars - and great cruelties. To cross the Oxus was to enter another world. Even today, whether you call it the Oxus or the Amu-Darya, crossing the great river is a step into that other world. The excesses of the ancient khans are long gone but Central Asia still has the power to enchant those who make the journey to discover these ancient lands for themselves. leyle Leave a Comment
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 Temur's mausoleum by TheWanderingCamel The Gur Emir, with its glorious blue melon-ribbed dome was not meant to house the body of Temur. He wanted to be interred in his home town of Shakhrisabz but, just as Samarkand at that time was dominated by his presence in life, so it became with his death and the body of the "Ruler of Half the World" was placed in the crypt below the beautiful cupola with its 64 ribs covered in exquisite turquoise tiles. He lies there surrounded by two of his sons his grandson and his spritual mentor. No doubt he died thinking his dynasty would last for ever - in reality it was to fade away in a remarkably short space of time and, in little more than a hundred years, the last of his descendants to hold power over Transoxiana was living in exile in India (where he became the founder of the great Mughal empire) and the golden age of Samarkand's power and glory was gone. leyle Leave a Comment Address: Near Umarov StreetDirections: Nearthe Samakand Hotel - you really can't miss it.
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 Russian church - Samarkand by TheWanderingCamel The Russian domination of Uzbekistan began long before the Revolution that saw the Communists take control of the empire. What began as a fairly low-key colonization in the 18th century became full-blown occupation in the mid-19th century as the stakes in the Great Game of Central Asian diplomacy rose ever higher. After the Revolution the Russian fist really came down as waves of deported people moved in and borders blurred into one great USSR. 1991 saw the breakup of the old empire and Uzbekistan became an independent state with a fixed border. Many people with Russian ethnicity left the country, and their numbers are now in serious decline - both as a result of immigration and a lower birthrate. It is quite probable that it won't be very long before the most noticable Russian presence will be the Orthodox churches and a few other buildings. Timur has replaced Lenin on the plinths of the public squares and Soviet war memorials have made way for statues of Uzbeck mothers grieving for their lost sons as the country seeks to regain its own identity and culture. leyle Leave a Comment
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 Timur the Lame by TheWanderingCamel The gigantic figure of Timur (Shakespeare's Tamurlaine) strides across Uzbekistan's history and even today the Uzbek people take great pride in the long-past time when his name rang around half the known world. Born in the shadow of the Pamir mountains in the town of Shakhrisabz in 1336, he made Samarkand his capital and from there, in successive campaigns that saw his armies conquer lands as far away as Moscow and Delhi, Baghdad and Constantinople , his name struck fear into all who heard it. During his reign, Samarkand , already a beautiful and important city on the Silk Route, began to acquire the mosques and madrassas that still bring glory to its name but when he died in 1404 his great empire began to shrink almost immediately. Within 50 years his lands had fallen to the Turk but his grandson had fled to India to become the first of the Mughal rulers there. Timur's statue has replaced those of Lenin and Marx as Uzbekistan reclaims its own proud history. leyle Leave a Comment Address: Amir Timur statue -TashkentDirections: The statue stands in the small park known as Amir Timur Square at the end of the pedestrian street , Broadway.
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 Ulug Beg by TheWanderingCamel The most extraordinary building in Samarkand is not one of the great madrassas or mausoleums. All there is as you approach it is a low circular platform of brickwork and a small, unassuming portico, all that remains to indicate that here was once the observatory of Temur's grandson, Ulug Beg - Uzbekistan's astronomer-king - who was the greatest astronomer the world had seen since the time of Ptolemy. From this place over 1000 stars were plotted and mapped, eclipse tables drawn up and the stellar year measured with an accuracy that is barely bettered by the most sophisticated modern technology. A deep narrow chamber in the ground reveals the underground section of the huge quadrant that formed part of the astrolabe used to take the measurements that enabled these calculations to be made. A small museum sets out information about the observatory and Ulug Beg's life and nearby there is the grave of the Russian archaeologist whose dedication to the task led to the rediscovery of the observatory in 1908. leyle Leave a Comment
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