Temur's tomb
Photo: A tomb for a tyrantThe Gur Emir, with its glorious blue melon-ribbed dome was not meant to house the body of Temur. He wanted to be interred in his home town of Shahrisabz but, just as Samarkand at that time was dominated by his presence in life, so it became with his death and the body of the "Ruler of Half the World" was placed in the crypt below the beautiful cupola with its 64 ribs covered in exquisite turquoise tiles. He lies there surrounded by two of his sons, his grandson and his spritual mentor. No doubt he died thinking his dynasty would last for ever - in reality it was to fade away in a remarkably short space of time and, in little more than a hundred years, the last of his descendants to hold power over Transoxiana was living in exile in India (where he became the founder of the great Mughal empire) and the golden age of Samarkand's power and glory was gone.Also in...


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