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For every friend of bazaars, Tashkent’s one is a must. Well, haha, that said, I only know some Uzbek and Tajik bazaars, so I cannot really judge. Tashkent’s bazaar is called Chorsu,easily reached by metro (station Chorsu). From there you can either go to the domed area or walk around in the southern part with restaurants. The domed area is for sure the better option. It is here where almost everything is sold, Uzbekistan’s farmland has to offer (and some imports too) such as fruits, spices and other food. You’ll wander around the huge piles of watermelons, honeydew melons, oranges, tomatos, you’ll smell the delicious fresh herbs (such as coriander, ahhh) and vegetables, can sip freshly squeezed juice (hmmmm, blackberry juice) and of course you’ll be overwhelmed by the smells of all kinds of spices in the halls under the biggest dome. Other than that, get some fresh dates or figs, apples, pears or one of the delicious sweets which Uzbekistan is famous for. Ahh, countless options :-) The prices are very much reasonable, bargain but accept that you still might pay slightly more than the locals (but your salary is much higher than theirs, so it shouldn’t matter). The southern part of the bazaar is occupied by the more modern goods, and your ears will get in trouble with all different kind of loud music from all over the place. You can get CDs her, radios, kids’ toys but also clothing. In the southwestern area you can look at the festive dresses, Uzbeks wear at special occasions, like the richly decorated black coats for men or the square hats with beads for women. And you can get silk scarves here as well. Oh, and in this southern part also most of the restaurants (with chairs) are located. Just follow the smell of the countless shashlyks, which are barbecued here every day. Open daily 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. (closing hours are more or less strict; at least I did see policemen walking around watching this). Leave a Comment Address: Tashkent, bazaarDirections: Take the metro (red line), get off at Chorsu and just walk around.
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Having stayed almost 6 days in Tashkent, I might seem to be “conaisseur” and yes, somehow it might be the case, as I was wandering around in the city in search for more sights. But, haha, take this with a grin though and not too serious :-) Upon arrival, I couldn’t get out of the city fast enough (and Ali’s vodka, lol), and when I came back to wait for my flight, I had incredible 5 days to spend, as I left the Pamirs earlier than planned. But these 5 days showed me a city, which is more than the hub to arrive and leave Uzbekistan, and which should deserve much more attention. I even would go as far as suggesting to spend more time upon arrival then upon leaving. The museums, Museum of Fine Art and Amir Timur Museum, give a very good overview about Uzbekistan, the history within Central Asia, art and culture, architecture and last but not least the man who might have shaped the region most – Amur Timur. From my todays’ point of view (i.e. 6 month after being back home) I wish I would have visited them beforehand to learn what I am going to see. But, as I didn’t, I learned afterwards what I should have seen and what I should have more appreciated. But well, it brought the desire to come back and really SEE what I should have seen. Let me summarize: what Tashkent lacks in ancient Silk Road buildings it has as museums, parks and excellent restaurants – and espresso, haha. So let’s start our visit. Leave a Comment
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Just next to Tashkent’s biggest bazaar is the city’s Juma (=Friday) Mosque and an old medressa. Kukeldash Medressa was built mid 16th century by vezir Kukeldash (well, of course..), with only 38 cells tiny compared to the ones I saw in Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. It is built according to the old style, with bricks and only the façade being decorated with geometrical tile work. As it has been used as caravanseray and fortress around 19th century, it needed a bit restoration mid 20th century to make it medressa again. Inside the courtyard it is shady and very quiet, given the bustling bazaar life just outside. Admission fee: 1000 som (no extra fee for taking pictures, however). Next to it is the Juma Mosque, also old (15th century), but did deteriorate much over the years. It was completely new constructed last century, and looks quite modern now, compared to the other mosques I saw during my trip. Don’t get tempted to step inside, it is the locals’ place to worship. But you can walk through the courtyard and look at it from the outside. Leave a Comment Address: Tashkent, near main bazaarDirections: It is south of the main bazaar. Metro: Chorsu (red line). Coordinates on GoogleEarth: Medressa: 41°19’23,13’’ N; 69°14’10,07’’ E; Mosque: 41°19’25,14’’ N; 69°14’13,40’’ E
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If you have read the transport section of my writings already, you have seen that I recommend Tashkent’s metro not only to take you from A to B but also for the stations themselves and their artwork. It is a mixture of majestic huge Soviet style and modern Uzbek comprehension, but has its charm. Kosmonavtlar for example is decorated with paintings of Russian/Soviet/Uzbek space pilots, all in bluish-white colours, Navoi has artwork about Alisher Navoi, some only have different abstract or theme mosaics and some only have gigantic metal decorated pillars. It is very much attempting to take pictures, but it is strongly forbidden ! Police is all over the stations, not necessarily to control if someone takes photos, but to “be there”. And please ignore the fact that I show 2 pictures of the interior here :-) my heart did beat like mad, but it was on the top of the stairs, no police in sight, no flash (thus blurry). I didn’t even waste a second to think about taking pictures at the tracks themselves. If you have time and like metros – take one line, get off at every station and take the next one 10 minutes later. ”Opening hours”: Metro trains run daily from 6 a.m. to midnight ”Admission fee”: Ticket is 160 som and takes you anywhere; you can also change lines with one ticket. Leave a Comment
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According to Uzbek calculations, around 88% of the population is of Islamic belief, around 9% of Orthodox christs and the rest is others. As for the history of Uzbekistan (or Central Asia), Orthodox faith is tolerated and from the Orthodox churches in most of the bigger cities, it can be assumed that this is really true. However… Mr. Kharimov seems to have his own agenda, now that he has converted to being the one and true Uzbek and heir of Mr. Timur. Laws do say that religious schools and places of worship for more than 3 people are banned if they do not have been registered with the authorities and are thus authorised by the authorities. Well, this leaves room for a lot of interpretation, and some results of this have been seen in several riots and their brutal end. The weblink below gives an idea about the official version of religious freedom in Uzbekistan. Tashkent’s Orthodox centre is not only the centre of Central Asia’s Eparchy of Russian Orthodox Church, but also the oldest in Central Asia; 175 years have been celebrated in 1996. Metropolitan is Vladimir. The premises are quite big, near the entrance is a very old building, where I assume it has holy relicts in a shrine. The church itself (the light blue one) is very beautiful inside (although I don’t have pictures – sometimes I simply hestitate to take some). It looks very old, and is beautifully decorated. And I was surpised to see not only old women but also young people praying and lighting candles (something I don’t see much in Germany). No entrance fee, however it would be polite to put a small fee in the collection box. Leave a Comment Address: Tashkent, Nukus (road)Directions: Take the metro, get off at Tashkent (red line), walk northwest until you reach Nukus, then walk southwest. Coordinates on GoogleEarth: 41°17’28,18’’ N; 69°16’40,81’’ EWebsite: http://www.uzbekistan.org/press/archive/420/
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From the more old area of Tashkent with bazaar , mosque and medressa, we now continue our city exploring in the modern centre and head for Amur Timur park. No doubt that Tashkent also needs its Timur statue, now on his horse riding westward to conquer the world. The park around here is very nice and relaxing, with many tall trees to give shade and lots of fountains. A real nice spot to do some people watching and escape the heat, which is brutal in summer. The park is considered to be the city centre, 8 roads leading radially in all directions. Close by is Amur Timur Museum (to the north), little restaurants and Hotel Uzbekistan (to the east) and the famous Broadway to the west. To the east of Timur Park, there is an interesting building, well, an interesting tower – a clock tower, which looks neither Islamic nor Russian (pic 4). It is a common meeting point for people and the building itself hosts an art gallery, which is said to be worth a visit. Leave a Comment Address: Tashkent, Amur Timur ParkDirections: Take the metro, get off at Amur Timur (blue line) or Yunus Rajabi (green line) and walk west. Coordinates on GoogleEarth: Timur statue: 41°18’40,29’’ N; 69°16’46,90’’ E Clock Tower: 41°18’34,55’’ N; 69°16’46,79’’ E
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If time allows (and it should), wander around outside of Chorsu bazaar. Just behind the big dome, across the street, is a little mosque, surrounded by a fence. Kids play inside and are more than willing to open the gate and show you the inside (for no fee, BTW, but just a smile). It is heavily renovated, but in its sobriety very beautiful. Nice wooden carved pillars support an entrance hall, which leads into the prayer room. A bit more to the northeast of the bazaar is a very strange building (pic 1), round in shape and almost like a snail with the ramp leading in spirals to the top. It is worth going upstairs, although it costs 500 som. The view from the top is exceptional ! Inside the building is a show or exhibition of artwork. But even if you won’t plan to buy something (it is expensive), try and ask the gatekeepers to let you peek inside – the cupola is over and over decorated with muqarnas (pic 5). Update, March 25, 2008: Thanks to VTer Vadim, he told me more about this building. This is what he wrote: It's actually an museum of children artwork, it's near chorsu and opposite to the National Dress Gallery of Uzbekistan. It was build recently, and mostly sponsored by the one of the presidential family members, as I heard. Thanks Vadim!!! Approx. 200 m northeast, on a traffic island, you’ll see a rectangular building with blue cupola, which is a shopping centre, but of very exclusive design and goods. Beautiful doors lead into a very elaborate interior, but forget shopping there, prices might be quite “western”. In the lower level is a grocery store, just in case you need to fill up your water bottles. Side note: I was looking it up on Google Earth, and to my amazement, it is not finished in the version, available Jan. 2007. Well, now GE is never up-to-exact-date, but still mostly not older than 2 years. So it must be brandnew, same as the snail building. Leave a Comment Address: Tashkent, Chorsu areaDirections: Take the metro (red l.), get off at Chorsu and just walk northeast. Coordinates on GoogleEarth: Mosque: 41°19’40,57’’ N; 69°14’01,39’’ E; Snail build.: 41°19’41,60’’ N; 69°14’18,27’’ E; Shopping cent: 41°19’46,66’’ N; 69°14’18,98’’ E
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Well, glory or hideout or palace exile, this is what (according to Wikipedia) Tashkent’s Romanov Palace is said to have been. Grand Duke Nikolay Konstantinovich Romanov, a relative of the last Tzar, had it built end of 19th century, after he was sent to Tashkent into exile. Rumors say it was a love and crime story, an affair with an obscure American woman had brought him to betray his family and so he was sent here to live under constant observation. In his palace, he must have had a huge collection of artwork (well, maybe it was not a rumor at all…), of which most is now on display in Tashkent’s Museum of Fine Art. I have added some pictures of some museum exhibits here as well, but it pays to visit the museum as well to see this incredible painting collection. Normally, I am not at all interested in looking at old paintings, but the mixture gave me the thrill…. among the collections have been two Kandinskys (not safeguarded by the way) and copies of famous ones, such as Da Vinci’s Last Supper and many others. Or originals ? The Romanov Palace can only be seen from the outside, unfortunately. It is now “home” of the Minister of Foreign Affairs…. how fitting :-). West of Romanov Palace, hardly possible to be overlooked, is the government area. New buildings spring up like musrooms – Mr. Kharimov likes to put himself on show. Leave a Comment
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Even if this museum is located a bit off the centre, you should take a bit of time for a visit. Not only it is located in a beautiful house but also hosts marvellous exhibits of Uzbek/Central Asia arts and crafts. One room is devoted to textiles such as coats, hats and suzanis, another to pottery and the different styles and their development. Other rooms show music instruments and wooden carvings. For me, the most impressive exhibit was a huge dark red carpet with gold embroidery, made not with threads but with very thin gold wire. The main building (= the one straight ahead after entering the gate) is an attraction itself. Russian diplomat Alexander Polovtsev had it built in 1909 in the traditional style with niches and decorations all over. The room has all architectural features, such as elaborately carved and painted plaster and carved and painted wooden ceilings and pillars. In addition, a nice art shop (2 to be precise) is located here. From what I saw, the goods are delicate and beautiful, mostly textiles and carpets. They are not cheap, that’s for sure, but quality has its price. I was here in the beginning of my trip and now regret not to have returned here at the end. They also sell carpets and from what I saw, they do pack careful for overseas transport. Explanations in Russian, Uzbek and partly English; no leaflets available. Opening hours: Wednesday to Monday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (except national holidays), Admission: 1200 som and additional 600 som for taking pictures (all valid for 1 day). Coordinates on GoogleEarth: 41°18’04,49’’ N; 69°15’33,30’’ E Leave a Comment Address: Tashkent, Rakhatboshi 15Directions: Take the metro, get off at Kosmonavtlar (red line), walk southwest (Yusuf Khos Khodjib) and after approx. 500 m, turn right (north) into Vakhidov Street, after 200 m right into Rakatboshi.
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 Gorgeous smells by TheWanderingCamel Looking for all the world like a gigantic flying saucer, the huge blue dome that covers the market hall at Tashkent's central Chorsu market was built by the Soviet's to replace a maze of covered stalls. Nowadays it sits surrounded by just as many stalls as it was meant to replace, thronged daily with people from all over the city. The stalls outside mostly sell clothing, household goods and such and are not all that interesting - though the high-roofed Chopon Bazaar near the mosque, full of traditional Uzbek robes -padded chapans, gold-encrusted ceremonial wear, hats of all colours and styles - is definitely worth a look. The ground floor of the domed hall is where you will find fruit and vegetables of every description, and some you've never seen before. The bread looks wonderful but you'll probably want to pass up browzing around the butchers' stalls. Upstairs, where the curve of the roof and the sweep of the circular form of the building is very noticeable, you'll find glowing mini-mountains of spices and dried fruits, nuts of every kind and more varieties of salads than you can imagine. The smell of grilling shashlik pervades the air, old women stagger by with laden shopping bags, old men sit and drink tea in the chaikhanas, young girls try on bridal veils, a baker wheels a baby's pram laden with fresh-baked loaves, porters stagger under huge bags of onions. The place buzzes with activity, the abundence of the produce is staggering. That it will all be here again tomorrow, and every day, is an amazing thought. Leave a Comment Directions: Take the metro to Chorzu
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