Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Hanoi

Heck, you must be wondering why I'm asking you to join a hideously long queue to see a dead body, right? Well, I don't have a thing for taxidermy but a keen fascination for kooky things. Yup, having heard so much about Ho Chi Minh, I needed to see the strange decorum surrounding his preserved body. What's this about lining up and dressing up in "proper" attire to see a corpse stiffer than a Brit's upper lip? Also, what's with the snowy white military uniformed guards?
Well, after I've seen the place, I understood it all. The decorum was a reflection of Vietnamese pride for someone who united their country against the most powerful force in the world and made them believe in themselves again. Uncle Ho deserved the honour.

Take note of these annoying things when you're visiting:

1)Opening Times
Winter 8:00-11:00, Summer 7:30-10:30
2)Check your camera at the entrance
3)No bare shoulders, mini-skirts or shorts allowed. Defy it and you'll be forced to buy the ghastly over-priced clothes at the entrance.
4)Uncle Ho pays a visit to Russia every two months of the year, usually in Nov and Dec.

We were in Hanoi, so we HAD to pay a visit to Mr. Ho Chi Minh. His final resting place is the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, built from 1973 to 1975 in a style similar to that of the Lenin Mausoleum in Moscow, is located at Ba Dinh Square, where Ho Chi Minh publicly declared Vietnam's independence on September 2, 1945. Right after his death on September 3, 1969, Ho Chi Minh's body was embalmed by a team of Soviet experts. Visitors to the mausoleum are expected to behave devoutly.

When we arrived, we discovered that it was closed because Mr Minh was getting some touch-ups. Apparently, this happens every year around November.

My original feeling was to give this place a pass. The idea of some old guy laid up stiff in a glass box just did not interest me and the opening hours seemed inconvenient (8am-11am Tuesday-Thursday, Saturday/Sunday as well from December-September). We had passed it a few times while it was closed and the guards surrounding the complex seemed like real pricks and I wanted nothing to do with closer contact to them. But we had a prolonged stay in Hanoi due to TET so we decided to give it a try. After all, it is free. I am glad we did as just the spectacle of entering the sacred grounds is worth venturing there early in the morning. You have to queue up in a huge line of predominately Vietnamese visitors and it takes a while to actually get in the building. Once in, you are horded through at a steady but respectful pace. You must wear nice clothing and show the utmost respect. I was walking in what seemed such a pose, with my hands clasped behind my back when a guard nudged them apart with his small wooden club. Not only can you not have your hands in your pocket, but they must be at your sides or in front only! The dress in pure white uniforms to add to the clandestine aura and Ho Chi Minh looks quite peaceful with his wispy white beard. It’s interesting for people watching as much as for the actual sarcophagus of the embalmed great one.

You may line up to enter the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, but be aware that there are usually long lines. (The mausoleum is only open from 8:00 a.m. to 11:00 a.m.) Guards make sure that a strict protocol is followed: no shorts or tank tops, and no bags or cameras may be taken inside. Filing past “Uncle Ho” in his glass sarcophagus is a sombre experience in this spiritual centre of Vietnamese independence.

What is it about communists that they have to have their founding fathers stuffed and put on display? Uncle Ho wanted to be cremated and have his ashes buried in parks around the country. Instead, upon his death in 1969, he was stuffed and placed in a large Soviet style mound of concrete.

That said, the Soviets did make impressive mounds of concrete and this one is no exception. Also notable is the reverence that the Vietnamese visitors have for this man which actually makes seeing him a moving experience, even though he looks like a wax figure.

Uncle Ho is on display most days before noon. Respectful dress is required and pictures are forbidden within the mausoleum. Check with your hotel for a full list of rules.

This is where Uncle Ho's preserved body can be found (some people might call him "Pickled Ho"). They are very strict about the visitors -- that means appropriate respectful clothing (no shorts, tank tops), no cameras/camcorders, no backpacks. To avoid the hassle, don't take any large bags with you (even if it's a large purse), dress like you're going to church, and if your camera bulges in your pocket -- you got a 50/50 chance of getting in.

You can check your bag at the security kiosk before you go towards the line -- please note that they only allow a certain number of visitors at each time, and yes, the guards can pull you off the line if they feel you are below the standard. You can always try again later or the next day...

I got pulled off the line, because of my backpack, even though the guard at the kiosk said it should be ok. =P

2 more images

The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum is a huge black and gray block building in the middle of a well-manicured area between Ba Dinh Square and the One Pillar Pagoda. This mausoleum is one of the most popular tourist sites in Hanoi with hour-long lines stretching down the block. Inside, Ho Chi Minh's body is displayed under glass for the world to view.

Ho Chi Minh's final resting place looks a lot like the Lincoln Memorial in D.C. from the outside. Inside is the well preserved remains of the man himself, on display so that he may continue to inspire the nation. He actually looks quite peaceful in an eerie way. He is flanked by several serious looking soldiers, and unlike Uncle Ho they are alert and quite serious. You enter from one end of the room and leave from the other, continually moving and not allowed to linger or take photos. Still, it is undoubtedly a must see for any visitor to Hanoi!