Hoi An Favorites

Favorite thing: In Hoi An, as in much of Vietnam, tourism has not (in 2005 anyway) imposed brutally on the local way of life. Local people go about their local lives pretty much undisturbed by tourism and tourists, therefore, gain an even richer experience from visiting Vietnamese towns and cities. Hoi An is probably the most "touristy" town in Vietnam, but you can still experience that warm and natural Vietnamese social interaction that is a special trademark of this country.

Favorite thing: Hoi An's riverfront position, on the north bank of the Thu Bon River, and the fact that the town's existence is tied closely to this river, mean that the waterway is (as it has always been) a thoroughfare of activity. You can easily imagine the scenes that would have been played out here in the 19th century when the riverfront merchants' houses would have been bustling. Now, tourism activities dominate, but take time to have a long look at this part of town.

Fondest memory: We were surprised at how friendly our little crew was, asking lots of questions about our travels along with what latter turned out ingenious ones about things we were wearing that we had bought in other places. They consisted of a mother with her little son and the grandmother doing most of the oar work. They even took a great shot of us with the boy who was certainly a little charmer. We enjoyed the trip more than we had figured on but soon worried about the time as we had bargained only for an hour trip. They did not seem to care about the time so much. (continued below in Fondest Memory)

Fondest memory: Once off the boat, I noticed our shoulders were a bit red from the sun. We had not had much sun since getting to Vietnam but it seemed now it would be a constant companion. We could get used to that, even our skin after some days with sun block. What we hoped to also get used to were more locals like these. We could deal with people trying to make a buck, that was human nature and more than understandable in a country wrought with poverty like Vietnam. But that they could be nice about it in spite of our not buying from them was a good thing all around. Good for us as it meant less stress. Good for them because we would tell our friends that it was not such a hassle here as we initially found it. And just maybe with this better treatment, we might buy something from them after all.

Fondest memory: At one point, we arrived at their home to drop off the little boy and, more importantly, pick up some souvenirs that we would hopefully buy. Now, the price of the trip itself made more sense, as well as their pointed questions about our other purchases, along with their prices. They were armed with the right products and what they figured were the right prices too. We braced ourselves for their sales pitch but found it softer than expected, especially after being manhandled in Hanoi. The items were overpriced and of little interest to us, obviously being typical Chinese knockoffs. We politely refused all the way back to the dock and gladly handed over our agreed upon fare. What was most surprising was their utter calm to our not making a purchase. In fact, they even said to come back again tomorrow. Okay, they probably just wanted another shot at us but it was offered up in such a friendly manner, we said we would think about it. (concluded below in Fondest Memory)

Fondest memory: With the first setting sun of our Vietnam stay, we walked and snapped our way through the photo opportunity laden streets and finally down to the picture perfect waterfront. As it was the main congregating area for tourists, it was correspondingly full of more than its share of locals trying their best to sell some merchandise or service they were convinced you just had to have. One particularly interesting slice of this pie was the row boat women. They offered up scenic trips of the canals for what seemed impossible prices. Though generally more than skeptical of these types of deals, we nonetheless found it irresistible for the chance to take an up close photo of one of these haggard women as much as anything else we might chance upon once out on the water. (continued below in Fondest Memory)

Favorite thing: Hoi An offers lots of attractions and some tasty local delicacies but the true delight of this charming town is to wander its timeless streets.

Fondest memory: Though some travel locations like Berlin mentally take form in the gray hues of an old black & white photo, most of the tropical variety are flavored in full bright colors. Though impressed by the culinary delights of Vietnam, our first ten days in what I had imagined a lush green paradise were disappointingly lacking in visual vibrancy, at least from a color band perspective. But what a difference the golden rays of a setting sun and blue skies can make.

Hoi An served up just this. It was as if we had crossed some imaginary border on our trip south from Hue and were finally transported to the land of what we had once imagined. Though teeming with tourists, the quaint town was charming not only in its picturesque simplicity but also for a population of less persistent applicants for our hard-earned dollars. (continued below in Fondest Memory)

Favorite thing: It may be difficult while on vacation, but try to dedicate one day to wake up very early with the goal of catching the Ancient City in the beautiful morning glow. You should get up around 5am, grab some breakfast and then rent a bike to tour around. Plan to take lots of photos, especially down by the market and docks where the fishermen are unloading the night's catch. Then tour around the Ancient City and snap photographs of buildings and the local people on their way to school and work.

Well worth the early wakeup call, as the photographs you get will be stunning.