Hoi An Off The Beaten Path

1 more image

At the far end of Tran Phu Street you'll find a really nice little park that's essentially a Memorial to a Polish man named Kazimierz Kwiatkowski...a man that was instrumental to Hoi An's Old Quarter being given UNESCO status as a heritage site.

IN the 1980's he came to Vietnam to participate in a program of preservation of Vietnamese heritage and because of illness died in Hue in 1997.

This small park like setting is surrounded with green space,and a large bas-relief of the man as well as a placard detailing his efforts in this process...

He also was a key figure in bringing that same status to the Cham ruins of My Son...where he worked in the restoration of the ruins...

So...if you're walking about and wondering what this park and statue are all about now you know..

1 more image

Hoi An has a beach 4 kilometers out of town.
Last time i was there the weather was quite bad and you could not swim and most beach bars were closed, but when the weather is nice then it´s quite a lively place and the beach is relatively good there.
To get the 4 kilometers there i recommend renting a bicycle in Hoi An.
Cycling there is easy and real nice on small country roads with people working in the rice fields.
Alternatively you can take a bus or go by taxi.

1 more image

Uyen Motorcycle tour
If you’re looking for an opportunity to "MIX WITH THE LOCALS" this is the trip to take. You travel the local roads, mix with the local people, visit their workplaces, eat at the cafe's the local people eat at and say in the hotels the Vietnamese use when they travel.
Uyen offers an escorted/guided tour by motorcycle (ride one yourself) around the well-travelled "middle circuit" of Vietnam. I took a 3 day tour and have to say it was one of the best experiences. If you need to stop for any photo, view, information, for a chat with the local people or any other reason Uyen is happy to accommodate your needs and translate and advise you.
Day 1 we started at Hoi An and travelled to Da Nang, Hai Van Pass, Lang Co (Lunch), Hue: Visit to Ancient Citadel & Overnight stay.
Next day we visited Thien Mu Pagoda (a 'working' Buddhist Temple / School / Residence) and then onto the village of Bot Do for lunch. Afterwards we travelled on to A Dot, the "Corner" where main roads and the Lao border meet. It's the start of the Ho Chi Min Trail, which we travelled down to an overnight stay at Paro, stopping at several villages along the way.
Day 3 we travelled on through the towns of Ktu, A So, Thanh My and Dai Loc before eventually returning to Hoi An. The town of Dai Loc has an impressive War Memorial, in the style of a "Western" Memorial, which is well worth a visit. Most Vietnamese Memorials are what we 'westerners' would call SHRINES to the war dead, dedicated and venerated but relatively simple to our expectations, but this one is a Full-On Dedicated Memorial with extensive WALLS engraved with the names of the fallen. It 's in need of a bit of extra care now but is well worth visiting and remembering that 'westerners' aren't the only people who made enormous personal sacrifices in times of war.
The territory traversed was fascinating and beguiling and my guide Uyen was a font of local knowledge, both geographically and culturally. Travelling through the mountain areas was absolutely thrilling and during my trip the Ho Chi Min Trail (a 2 lane concrete road) was closed to almost all traffic due to landslides, with only motorcycles being able to travel it's whole length. The two of us truly were the KINGS OF THE ROAD for most of the trip.
Uyen's vehicles are a bit dated but reliable and in retrospect, I would have to say they are perfectly suited for a foreigner travelling in a land where the traffic regulations are very loosely adhered to. I asked Uyen to travel slowly and whilst it was frustrating in some instances, slow travelling on lightweight, low-powered motorcycles is THE BEST WAY for a 'westerner' to travel long distances in Vietnam.
THERE WILL BE OCCASIONS WHERE YOU WILL HAVE TO LEAVE THE PAVEMENT FOR THE ROAD SHOULDER AT VERY SHORT NOTICE!
In July 2010 the fee was US$65.00 per day (motorcycles & Fuel), plus your food and accommodation, which doesn't come to very much as they are all the things the Vietnamese use in their daily lives. Uyen secures the “local” price, not the “visitor” price.
Whilst I was visiting the "Citadel" in Hue, Uyen found my motorcycle had picked up a puncture in the rear tyre. When I returned it had been repaired and we continued on our way without interruption.
Uyen also provides Wet Weather Clothing (for the obligatory after-noon thunderstorms), Helmets, gloves and will provide, or advise, on your hydration needs whilst travelling. I recommend clothing that covers your arms and legs and sunscreen, plenty of water and vitamin or mineral supplements. Don’t travel without gloves, you’ll sun/wind burn your hands.

For meals: eat what the local people eat, you’ll enjoy it.

There are times when it's hard work. But the rewards are great.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED, but you will need motorcycle skills and a moderate level of fitness.

1 more image

Also called Kiet Well, this well is one of the most famous ancient wells of the Cham people in Hoi An. It was dug around the 10th century and features a square mouth. It is a very special thing that only the water of this well can be used for preparing Hoi An speciality of Cao Lau noodles.

Ba Le Well is situated in the garden of Mr. Ba Lo Le, about ten meters from Kiet Gieng Lane (which links Phan Chu Trinh Street and Tran Hung Dao Street).

4 more images

By the river bridge that crosses over to Can Am Island is the animal market.
The Market is located just around the corner in Bach Dang street. You walk into the market area from the river bridge road, where the Tin smiths workshops are. Just a short way in, and hidden, are the animal markets where you will see the chickens, ducks, pigeons and pigs for sale. There is plenty of wheeling and dealing going on by the buyers and sellers. Nobody seemed to mind me having a look and taking photo's.
I was the only Westerner here, everybody walked past the entrance, so I thought it was quite an interesting find!
It is on the side located nearest the river.

Location Bach Dang Street, Hoi An

3 more images

This place is an hour by car west from Hoi An and if it wasn't for the fact that it was a designated heritage site, I doubt if anyone would really spend and go out of his way to view this unless you're into history or archeology. The ruins aren't much and I could understand why previous visitors were not that impressed with the place. Perhaps if the local authorities would spruce up the area and somehow recreate how the sanctuary looked like in its days of glory then it would merit more "oohs and ahhs!". I do realize that the grounds surrounding My Son still has unexploded mines but the area is not that big so getting rid of mines, though tedious, hazardous and costly, should be a priority so the sanctuary can be better appreciated.

Entrance fee (as of July 2009) is 60,000 dong.

1 more image

The temple compound is divided into several groups marked by French archeologists with letters of the alphabet.
Each group comprised the following structures: a main tower (kalan), a gate tower, a meditation hall (mandapa) and a building for offerings. Some had also towers housing stelae with royal epitaphs.
Tourists usually start visiting the site from groups B and C. The decorative elements on the exterior walls, the motifs carved in the brickwork, are the evidence of the greatest skills possessed by the Cham artists.
Group A, although once probably the most remarkable, was almost completely destroyed by US attacks and what is left is a mere pile of bricks.

2 more images

My Son is a definite "must" if you visit this part of Vietnam. Situated about 40 km from Hoi An in a lush green valley it is one of the most important archeological sites of Vietnam. Once the ancient centre of the kingdom of Champa, it is nowadays the UNESCO World Heritage site.
Although My Son cannot compare to the temples of Angkor in Cambodia, it is undoubtedly an evocative place of great historical value.
The earliest temple constructions come from the 4th century AD, but most structures whose remains we can see today were built around the 10th century AD.
The American war reduced a big part of the buildings to ruins. Some of the decorative elements and carvings that 'survived' the war have been removed to the Cham museum in Danang. But still the place makes a lasting impression.
The ticket comprises the transport to the sites, which are about 2 km from the ticket office.