Hoi An Things to Do

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Thu Bon River
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Hoi An sits on the northern bank of the Thu Bon River estuary which flows into the nearby South China Sea and was gave it easy access for trade. Between the seventh and 10th centuries, the Champas controlled the strategic “spice trade” and with this came tremendous wealth. The boats still used today in Hoi An probably have the same hull shape as those used by the Champas for ocean voyages. The town quickly became an important Vietnamese trading centre in the 16th and 17th centuries, where Chinese from various provinces as well as Japanese, Dutch and Indians settled.

Written May 8, 2010

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My Son Sanctuary...
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My Son Sanctuary,Vietnam.
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My Son is a UNESCO Heritage site that is essentially the remains of a religious settlement about an hours drive from Hoi An.

The remains are a collection of structural remnants and artifacts of the people of the Champa Kingdom. Most of the structures were built in the 10th century and occupy a space of about ten hectares. It’s not a condensed site and requires walking a fair amount to access some of the venues so take warning if you might have mobility issues. Your access might be limited.

The first mention of the “Kingdon of Champa” dates to about 192 AD in Chinese scriptures where it appears under the name Lin-Yi. It was a culture that was influenced and developed with beliefs and some practices of Indian Hinduism. The culture flourished well into the 13th century and likely faded as a results of conflict with various and more powerful civilizations.

Throughout central Vietnam there are a few archeological sites that can be found that are from the Champa era although My Son is the most complete and the most studied, likely as a result of the status UNESCO gave to it in the late 1990’s.

During the “American War” parts of the site were bombed by the USA and consequently some areas of the complex were obliterated. During the conflict and previous to the bombing communist forces were taking refuge in the area and hence the bombing. There are still areas where access is prohibited because the area has not been cleared of unexploded ordinance. You’ll see the odd rusted sign with a skull and crossbones attached to fencing here and there…DO NOT CROSS the line…

I booked the tour through my hotel and paid only $ 8.00 for the entire tour. This included bus transport to the site accompanied by a guide for the duration of the tour and return by boat. Lunch was included for this price but soft drinks were not. We had the option of returning by bus or by boat. To return by bus the cost was only $ 6.00.
The boat made a stop along the way back to Hoi An at Kim Bong carpentry village where we were able to walk around and visit wood carving shops where if you liked…you could purchase any of the available carvings.

The tour was about a six hour adventure. And we spent about two hours actually on site. We arrived fairly early in the morning and as the morning wore on the crowds began to grow. I think the tour groups from farther away than Hoi An arrived later in the morning. It got crowded fast so I would recommend an earlier tour than the one that departs at 9:00 AM…there is an option to start at 5:30 AM and this would get you there much earlier and make for better photos I think.

DO visit My Son if you are in the area…its certainly an interesting and memorable way to spend some time.

Written Mar 4, 2010

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The Japanese Bridge…
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Japanese Bridge,Hoi An,Vietnam.
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OK if you’ve read anything about Hoi An you’ve likely read about “the bridge”…so I wont go into too much detail here except to tell you what my guide told me…that it was initially built to join the Japanese community living in Hoi An with the Chinese community living here. Construction of the bridge dates to the early 1600,s.It is known to the local people also as Chua Cau [Pagoda Bridge[

It traverses a swampy and dirty stream of water that you’d be gad that you didn’t have to wade or swim to get across...

There is no vehicle traffic permitted on this bridge...only pedestrian and bicycles that must be WALKED through...

Its an interesting structure complete with a temple in the center of the bridge honoring Tran Vo Bac De…”Emperor of the North”, just at the entrance ways you’ll see sculptures of two dogs at one end and a pair of monkeys at the other, there are a few theories as to why they are here…one is that they symbolize the beginning and ending of the construction of the bridge…started in the year of the dog…completed in the year of the monkey…what the true story is, nobody will ever likely really know..but they are both honoured and small shrines are erected to each.

In any event the temple in the center of the bridge is still used today by locals...so please respect that this is an active temple..

The bridge has undergone a number of renovations and upgrades over the years and is likely the most recognized symbol of Hoi An today.

It’s such a popular spot that they’ve actually built another bridge about fifty meters from the original so that the PERFECT photograph can theoretically be taken of the bridge.
BEWARE though…you might need to take a number or line up to get your turn to get that perfect photo!!

Its in fact quite an interesting structure....and a sight NOT to MISS if you're exploring Hoi An for any length of time..

Written Mar 3, 2010

Address: Far end of Tran Phu Street

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The Museum of History and Culture…
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Museum of History and Culture,Hoi An,Vietnam.
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This is a rather small museum that displays a variety of artifacts found in and around the city of Hoi An. The museum itself is located within the former Quan Yin Pagoda, a structure built in about 1635…unfortunately this wasn’t explained well by my guide and I cant seem to find other information about the pagoda.

You can see here some cannon barrels, some interesting old bells from Pagodas in the area including nearby Cham Island, some earthenware excavated in archeological digs nearby, photographs, old sea charts from different trader’s ships and other things that are of some interest to anyone that has an interest in the history of the area. You can also see excavated burial jars from an era when people of the Sa Huynh lived in this area and to my relief there were no bones accompanying this exhibit.

I thought it was curious to see the sea charts belonging to different traders from different countries…each had a different name for the settlement at what today is known as Hoi An. Some of the names that Hoi An was previously known as include Fayfo, Kaifo, Faifoo, Faixfo, and Hoai Pho…depending on the nationality of the traders doing business here in Hoi An.

The collection of bells includes one cast in 1688 as well as another cast in 1677 removed from the Hai Tang Pagoda found in Cham Island.

It’s a small collection and well presented…it certainly didn’t take too long to go through it…it’s a one story structure…Sadly though…I thought the lighting to be kind of poor…and again, the English translations could have been better done. Otherwise it was an interesting stopover and another good way to help acquaint myself with Hoi An.

Written Mar 3, 2010

Address: 7 Nguyen Hue St, Hoi An.

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HIRE A BICYCLE TO GET AROUND
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BEACH SCENE CUA DAI  HOI AN
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HOI AN: I found the traffic to be a lot less hectic than in Ho Chi Min City so, here I hired a bicycle for the day from the hotel..This I found was great way to get to the beach at CUA DAI..quite a way out of the town centre..Also at the beach you will have to park in a security bicycle park for a small fee...not only you are not allowed to ride by the beach this is mainly for security so as the bike will not be stolen while you are swimming...The fee is very small..
Bicycle hire from my hotel was US$2.00 for the day.
See your hotel receptionist for info on hiring a bike for the day

as the day was extremely hot and humid make sure that you are carrying plenty of fresh water..

Written Mar 2, 2010

Address: SEE HOTEL RECEPTIONIST FOR BIKEHIRE

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Sights and Sounds and Smells....the Market..
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COLOUR...The Market,Hoi An,Vietnam.
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This is certainly a portion of the HEART and SOUL of Hoi An…I say a portion because I think in addition to the market area of Hoi An…the river also plays a significant role in the heartbeat of the city…

In any event…THE MARKET is a bustling, lively, and colorful MUST see when you’re in town…just to browse the many stalls of goods available...vegetables, eggs, the noodle maker, the lady selling salt by the bag or the man carving wooden Buddha’s …you’ll need to dodge motorbikes and people on bicycle … prepare yourself if you’re in someone’s way to get a strong finger in the small of your back to get you to move out of the way..Ha…It happened a couple of times to me…

There’s a section sort of off on its own where the fish mongers are at work…buying and selling. but if you arrive after early morning its mostly just selling…

The smells, the noises, the color all make it a really interesting spot to hang out for a while.
Just be warned that it’s a busy spot and you really need to keep your wits about you…

I visited a few times…as this was a way to cut through to our favorite lunch spot.,. the Banana Café…

You likely cant help but find the market…its along the waterfront street…on Bac Dang Street just West of the bridge that goes over to Can Nam Island…

Written Feb 27, 2010

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Museum of Folklore….
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Unicorn Dance Display,Museum of Folklore,Hoi An.
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This is a must see when you are spending time here in Hoi An…The museum displays a collection of traditional clothing, tools used in every day life [ fishing, farming etc. ] and even displays illustrating “games” people played and ceremonial rituals of the people of Hoi An and the surrounding area.

Although they were not present when I visited you can watch people actually spinning silk into thread…there are a variety of functional looms on display which people actually will work at..

On the second floor there are two displays in particular that are really interesting…one is a model of two people participating in a “Unicorn Dance”…a ritual that was performed during the Mid Autumn Festival…and was intended to drive away evil spirits and bring happiness ,good crops, and general prosperity for the people of Hoi An…

There is also a display on the second floor that illustrates Ba Trao singing…a traditional ceremony found in fishing villages of the area…performed to show respect to Ngoc Lan Nam Hai…a type of Sea God that would protect them from disaster at sea and a good harvest .

It’s a small but well organized presentation…I suppose that my only criticism might be that the English translations might not be as well done as they could be…

Written Feb 27, 2010

Address: 33 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street

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Hoi An Arts and Crafts Manufacturing Workshop
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Hoi An Arts and Crafts Manufacturing Workshop
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CAUTION....People at WORK….

This is a another MUST see here…..I was amazed at the skills and craftsmanship being displayed here……women mostly, using traditional methods making conical hats, weaving rugs, making embroidered something or others, and a FANTASTIC music performance of traditional music and dance…

The main floor of the building was the performance area…where I watched a group of musicians and dancers performing a short set of maybe four or five tunes and two dance routines…It was really spectacular...and one of my highlights of my visit here to Hoi An..

The second floor was set up into sections where I watched a woman working on a conical hat…a group of two women using a type of machine that they were using to make a rug. and another section where two women were showing people how they made embroidered patterns…and another section where people had easels set up and were busy working on painting…

DO try to catch the musical and dance performances….two performances a day….check local information as I think that the performance times vary…

Written Feb 27, 2010

Address: 9 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, Hoi An, Vietnam

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Phuoc Kien Assembly Hall...
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Phuoc Kien Assembly Hall,Hoi An,Vietnam.
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The Phuoc Kien Assembly Hall is likely the most glamorous or extravagant of the Assembly Halls found in Hoi An…its architecture and design is really quite interesting and the décor is the most ornate I think.

The Phuc Kien Assembly Hall is also known as the Kim Son Pagoda…and construction is thought to have started in 1692 and is the largest of the Assembly Halls to be found in Hoi An… Originally the Hall was built by the Phuoc Kien merchants that arrived in Hoi An to carry out trade.

Phuoc Kien is also dedicated to Thien Hau…and as such the main alter is also graced with her presence. It was winter when I visited but some of the foliage around the grounds was green with many of the trees without leaves. I’m sure in the midst of summer the presentation would be even more grand. As you enter the grounds you will be led by a beautifully landscaped and wide walkway that will lead you past some lovely statues to a series of structures that contain alters.

There are two different alters found here…again as I mentioned, the Sea Goddess Thien Hau is honored here and she is the centerpiece of the first structure…the second alter is dedicated to the Goddess of Prosperity and the Ancestors of the Phuoc Kien people, in addition to these a place at the center of the back sanctuary is dedicated to the six generals of the Ming Dynasty who came from Phuoc Kien…

The Assembly Hall houses a lot of statues, bronze drums, bronze bells, big incense burners and other artifacts of importance and value…

Please make this a stopover during your time here in Hoi An…you’ll be impressed with the beauty of the grounds..

Updated Feb 24, 2010

Address: 46 Tran Phu Street., Hoi An,Vietnam.

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Trung Hoa Assembly Hall..
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Trung Hoa Assembly Hall,Hoi An,Vietnam.
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Construction of the Trung Hoa Assembly Hall was started in about 1741 and was originally called the Duong Thuong Assembly Hall…originally built to honor Thien Hau…or the “Holly Mother”...the centerpiece of the main alter of the Hall. A sizeable portion of the Chinese immigrants that had arrived in Hoi An had come from the Province of Fujian…a coastal area of Southern China it was natural that they would bring along they’re beliefs and honor those Traditions..

Thien Hau …is also known as “Mazu”..and is essentially a Goddess of the Sea….whom is thought to protect fishermen and sailors…or anyone that’s associated with sea ventures.

It was undergoing some renovation work when I visited briefly so I did NOT explore to thoroughly… but I was there long enough to marvel at the wonderful works of art…as I tried to stay out of the way of the people that were working there. The color and beauty of the art here is well worth a stop for a “look see”…

Written Feb 23, 2010

Address: 64 Tran Phu Street, Hoi An,Vietnam.

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Top 3 Hotels in Hoi An

Victoria Hoi An Resort

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 Construction of the Trung Hoa Assembly Hall was started in about 1741 and was originally called the Duong Thuong Assembly Hall…originally built to honor Thien... 

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On the Embodiment of Vietnam: Hoi An

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 Sometimes all it takes is a little sun to make a street, a flower, or a whole country look better. Hoi An offered just that and a whole lot more too. Vietnam had been a disappointment up to this point... 

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Hoi An 22/3/08 to 25/3/08

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 To reach Hoi An from Hue, I caught the open tour bus. On the way there was some beautiful scenery to see, especially from the Hai Van pass. I had views of the sea, Danang, mountains and valleys, and... 

3

A charming piece of History

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 Hoi An is one of the most charming towns in Vietnam, and probably the one that mantains untouched the feeling of "old times", as most of the cities in Vietnam have somehow been affected by recent... 

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UNESCO HERITAGE Site..a Vietnamese HIGHLIGHT...

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 We originally had Hoi An on our itinerary of a four week “tour” of Vietnam and towards the end of our planning we took it off…What we were discovering was that in fact four weeks was not going to be... 

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The old town of Hoi An

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  For more photos see my travelogue MY SON, THE CHAMPA KINGDOM'S CAPITAL . . 

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