Hue Things to Do

When I suddenly saw this car, I remembered seeing it featured on Michael Palin's Pacific Circle TV series as he visited here as part of his trip around the Pacific Rim. In 1963 a Buddhist monk named Thich Quang Duc shocked the world by travelling from this temple to Saigon in this car, pouring a can of gas over his head, and lighting himself on fire, in protest of American interference in South Vietnam's self-determination. The image of a robed man, sitting cross-legged on the pavement, rocking back and forth in meditation as he was consumed by flames, was broadcast on American television. It was the first in what would be a long series of disturbing images brought into American homes during the world's first TV war - images that would eventually ignite a backlash against the war, and lead inevitably to the American withdrawal, and the north Vietnamese victory.

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This will probably be the first attraction you'll come to if you take one of the many Perfume River trips from Hue as it's located just upstream from the city. Often called the symbol of Hue, it is one of the oldest religious structures in Vietnam having been built in 1601 at the direction of Nguyen Hoang, the head of the Nguyen Lords. In 1710, the ruling Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu funded the casting of a giant bell, which weighs 3285 kg, and was regarded as one of the most prized cultural relics of its time in Vietnam. The bell is said to be audible 10 km away and has been the subject of many poems and songs, including one by Emperor Thieu Tri of the Nguyen Dynasty who ruled in the 1840s.

The 21-metre high octagonal Phuoc Dien Tower in front was added in 1844 by Emperor Thieu Tri. Each of its seven tiers is dedicated to either one of the human forms taken by Buddha or the seven steps to enlightenment.

Open: 8am-5pm. Admission: Free.

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I took my tour of the tombs along the Perfume River with An Phu Travel. We first visited a so-called fishing village which was located downstream from the Citadel but only consisted of a few families who live on fishing boats and so wasn't all that interesting.

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I took my tour of the tombs along the Perfume River with An Phu Travel. Firstly, I was picked up and taken to where the Dragon boats are moored up and we left Hue at about 8.30am with about a total of 15 people on the tour from all over the world - US, UK, Australia etc. We first visited a so-called fishing village which was located downstream from the Citadel but only consisted of a few families who live on fishing boats and so wasn't all that interesting. We then headed upstream and stopped off at the famous Thien Mu Pagoda, which is widely promoted on tourist blurb for Hue. We then visited the Tu Duc Tomb, Hon Chen Temple and Minh Mang Tomb before heading back to Hue. The tour costs me just 50,000 VND in Jan 2009 and included lunch so it was very good value but you do have to pay the entrance fee at the attractions. A pretty good day out despite the weather which was drizzling all day which spoilt things a little but I could hardly complain given how much I spent on the tour.

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This church was being renovated when I visited in Jan 2009 and was nearly finished. I think it's called Phanxico church but I don't know for sure other than what was written in Vietnamese above the entrance.

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An Dinh Palace is one of the typical structures of Hue, built on an order of King Dong Khanh (1886-1888) on the northern bank of the An Cuu River right after his accession to the throne. Later, King Khai Dinh (1916-1925) had it transformed into a magnificent palace in an enclosure that covers about 2.5 hectares. It was being restored when I visited in Jan 2009 but normally houses the Hue Royal Antiquities Museum which was originally established in 1923.

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Just past the train station on your way south toward the imperial tombs, little Bao Quoc Pagoda (meaning "Pagoda Which Serves the Country") is a Buddhist temple that was founded in 1670 by Giac Phong, a Buddhist monk from China. It was given its present name in 1824 by Emperor Minh Mang, who celebrated his 40th birthday here in 1830. In the 1930s, it was the scene of a revival in Buddhist education in Vietnam. In 1935, a school for teaching Buddhism to all comers was opened, and in 1940, a monastery for training monks was created, which is still operating to this day.

Upon entering the temple through the triple gates, there is a spacious courtyard with a variety of plant life, surrounded by balconied buildings. On the left are stupas dedicated to Buddhist patriarchs, the oldest being that to Thich Giác Phong, which was built in 1714 and stands 3.30 m high. The main temple building has four pillars with the figures of dragons built onto them.

One of the most famous secondary schools in Vietnam, this School was founded in 1896 and run by Ngo Dinh Kha, the father of South Vietnamese president Ngo Dinh Diem. Many of the school's pupils later rose to prominence in both North and South Vietnam. One of them was General Vo Nguyen Giap, strategist of the Viet Minh victory at Dien Bien Phu and North Vietnam's long-serving deputy premier, defence minister and commander-in-chief. Pham Van Dong, North Vietnam's prime minister for over a quarter of a century, and the secretary-general and former prime minister Do Muoi also studied here. Even Ho Chi Minh attended the school briefly in 1908. The school was given a major renovation in 1996 to celebrate its 100th anniversary and a statue of Ho Chi Minh was erected.