San Salvador Things to Do

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Thanks to the fact that the country lies on a very active fault line, and that the Civil War deprived the church of much of its support during the 1970s and 1980s, El Salvador is actually pretty poor in interesting and inspiring religious architecture. There are a few churches that were rebuilt in Colonial style, but most of them are rather drab and ugly, blending into grimy sections of the city that are otherwise unremarkable. La Virgen de Guadalupe shrine is clearly an exception, as it stands back from the street in an area that is devoid of other structures. While the building lacks the sort of Spanish Baroque grandeur that one might expect, it nevertheless is a pretty white and salmon structure that recalls memories of missions in California. The simple but pleasing interior, with its white and black tiles and various chapels, is also quite inviting, perhaps because of the relative peace and quiet that the Church offers, in contrast to the hustle of the Panamericana just outside. The Virgen also attracts a fair number of people asking for help, with messages posted on a smaller shrine outside the church showing the popularity of a Catholic figure generally associated with Mexico and her indigenous peoples.

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San Andrés, not far from La Joya de Cerén, provides visitors with another glimpse into pre-Colombian life in Central America. Although the pyramids here are not those of Tikal or the Yucatan, they are quite impressive, especially for those who have never visited pyramids before. A short hike from the visitors’ centre, the actual structures are in a meadow beautifully devoid of any development or human presence. The impression of solitude and abandonment is even stronger because of this, which helps to create a special feeling among visitors. The complex of pyramids that remains contains a court in which the indigenous communities – related to the Mayans – would play a game not dissimilar to basketball. Much of the court is now overgrown with grass and plants, but the pyramids themselves are still standing, and visitors can sit on the walls of the court and pretend that they are where spectators once watched incredible feats of strength and agility.

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La Joya de Cerén, the Jewel of Cerén, truly is something special. The Pompei of Central America, these ruins were buried under layers of volcanic ash and soot, allowing them to be preserved in a remarkable fashion. Prior to 900 AD, the area in which El Salvador lies was inhabited by a native group unrelated to the indigenous nations found at the time of the Spanish Conquest. In the 10th century, however, the volcano at Ilopango (not far from the capital) erupted violently, covering the area with volcanic ash and lava (the reason why coffee grows here). The inhabitants, luckily, appear to have escaped in time (no human remains were found in the ash), but they left their homes and possessions as they were. In the 1970s, a farmer inadvertently discovered the remains of their village, which was excavated by an American archeologist. Today, you can visit the preserved remains of the few houses found, including that of the Shaman and his family. The tour guide (Spanish only) provides an interesting insight into the significance of the various sites, as well as an overview of life in the region at the time of the volcano’s eruption.

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The Museo de Arte, or MARTE, is the second impressive museum in San Salvador. It is devoted largely to modern art, although it does include a fairly good but brief collection of the art of the country from the first installation of Spanish colonists to the present. The MARTE has two special exhibit rooms (one at the entrance, the other in the basement). When I visited, they had a great collection of Picasso sketches and a couple of sketches inspired by Picasso. The basement also had a collection of local artists' work depicting dreams and nightmares - a great little horror show. The main collection of the museum is small, but still provides a good idea of the development of the arts in El Salvador. In particular, it allows visitors to understand the general evolution of Salvadorean artists, first from the total reliance on Spanish form and canon and then the gradual schism and development of a unique American style, followed by the effects of the civil war on the country's artistic persona. Perhaps the most impressive part of the museum, however, is the entrance, dominated by the massive Alegoría a la Constitución, a piece that is in fact inspired by the Mexican Constitution and sculpted by a Mexican artist. This is complemented by the large naked man, el Chulón or Monumento a la Revolución. This piece was allegedly inspired by a massive general strike that brought an end to military dictatorship, known as brazos caídos (fallen arms). El Chulón's arms are raised up, representing the triumph of a liberated people over tyranny.

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The Museo Nacional de Antropología, or MUNA for short, is one of the two impressive museums in San Salvador. It is not often that you find a well-planned and well-organized museum in a city so lacking in tourist infrastructure as San Salvador, which is why the MUNA is such a pleasure to visit. The building itself was rebuilt several times, after being destroyed in an earthquake in the 80s or 90s and then, after reconstruction, the discovery that the new building was unsound. The current structure is not really aesthetically pleasing, but it does allow the visitor to feel assured that it will not collapse during a tremor. The museum contains some of the few exhibits that actually explain and, in a way, celebrate the history of El Salvador from its original inhabitants up through to the modern time. The bottom floor contains a detailed history of the country in chronological order, beginning with the first inhabitants, then the post-volcanic eruption Mayan inhabitants and finally the post-Columbian development of the country. The second floor, on the other hand, provides a detailed look at the various rituals and customs of the native peoples of El Salvador at the time of the Spanish conquest. The best room is undoubtedly the one devoted to religious beliefs, which is beautifully laid out.

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El Salvador is a country that doesn't have much to offer by way of architectural or manmade attractions, but it certainly can offer beautiful natural scenery to amaze visitors. One site that anyone coming to San Salvador should visit is El Boquerón, the volcano that towers above the capital city. At a short 20 minute ride from Zona Rosa and the safer parts of the metropolis, el Boquerón is an easy and quick escape from the sprawling, ugly city. The road up to the edge of the cone provides tourists with an interesting view to the life of the city's agricultural workers, as many of the coffee pickers live among the single road that climbs the volcano's side. As you approach the entrance to the national park, the shacks of the coffee pickers are replaced more frequently by stands at which women sell flowers picked in the park, a practice that is prevalent but illegal. Once at the parking lot, the short climb up is filled with great picture opportunities and incredible views of brilliantly colourful flowers and plants. The volcano is no longer active and its crater is filled with volcanic rock and flora. A track along the ledge allows you to see into the crater and get great pictures. Interestingly, the volcano was once claimed by a television magnate who purchased a falsified land title for the area. The volcano was supposed to be part of a national park and, only after years of negotiation and legal battles, the magnate "donated" the lands to the people of El Salvador.

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It’s not a large museum, but it’s a very nice one—Instead of displaying everything they found, there are a few of the best examples in each category. It is spacious, and the artifacts are attractively arranged. Classical and pre-classical items are displayed by time period, and the site where they were found. There are wonderful little clay figurines and some beautifully decorated pottery.

One room is non-Mayan--a mummy from Peru, a Mexican sun stone, an Olmec head, and some pottery from the southern U.S.A. The outdoor garden had giant stone carvings and altars.

Admission was just $3 (2010) and photography (without flash) is allowed.
Note: Signs and explanations are only in Spanish

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Joya de Cerén was a farming village that was completely buried byvolcanic ash from the eruption of the Loma Caldera volcano around 600 A.D. Sites in this area are small—there were too many earthquakes to build big cities or tall temples. The site is interesting because the ash preserved everything. The people seem to have escaped, but they left all their stuff behind.

It was discovered in 1976 when the supervisor of a construction project noticed that the ash didn’t scoop up easily. He stopped the bulldozers and contacted the archaeology authorities. Joya de Cerén is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Only about 5% of it has been excavated so far. There are houses, storage areas, and a sweat lodge. One of the houses has a stone bed.

The site is open from 9:30-4 p.m. (closed Mondays) and costs $3 to visit. You can't just wander--you have to go with a guide, but he is free.