Copán Things to Do

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The landscape of Copan is worth a lot just in images. Here are a number of images I couldn't include in the content analysis of the ruins. These will help the visitor place the content in perspective, I hope.

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The Copan River encroached upon the ruins in modern times, creating a landslide that exposed the multilayer construction of the temples. The river has since been rerouted away from the ruins, and the landslide side of Temple 21 has been built up stone by stone. There's some great views from above the East Court, and from below Temple 21.

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Below the East Court, Temples 21 and 22 is the archeologist created Tunnel of the Jaguars, which exposes part of the buried temples below along the side water cut by the Copan River. Actually, the river cut though destructive was also important to revealing the layers of temple construction at Copan. In any case, there are a number of important buried frescos, that were preserved by burial. Early work included mud frescos that needed to be repaired frequently. When they were exposed, the rain washed them away. Note that in these photos the Roman keystone arches of stone were built by the archeologists to create a safe tunnel network. The Mayan's used corbeled arches.

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Many structures remain buried by vegetation and their own rubble to protect them from the relentless tropical rains. Structures exposed and reconstructed face the problem of erosion of the exquisite sculpted reliefs, so many of the best of these are gradually being incorporated into the shelter of the Copan museum. But, field setting is important, and so archeologists have uncovered structures in places just to show how they were buried. A good example of this is the north face of Structure 16, where the temple steps are exposed in the center, but the right side has been layered over with concrete to show how this temple was found. Recall that buried below Structure 16 is Rosalila, the temple for Ruler 1, K'inich Yax K'uk'Mo'. Also, in this area is a great view of the so-called Cemetary Group, which is, in fact, the residences of nobles. This whole view was greatly modified in the late period of Ruler 16, Yax Pasaj Chan Yopaat.

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On the south side of the West Court, close to Altar Q, on alternate sides of the rubble of Structure 14, are two large rectangular sheltered altars with readable glyphs. I couldn't find anything more about these except that these were erected by Ruler 13, Waxaklajun Ubaah K'awiil. There are other interesting carved relics in the area, none of which I could identify specifically, but one of which is covered so well that it was hard to see what it was.

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Located on the Acropolis, Structure 22a is an annex of Temple 22 (which includes the extraordinary Sculputured Doorway and Witz Corners) and is itself also an extraordinary decorated structure. But instead of providing a spiritual purpose, Structure 22a provides a political purpose--the gathering of council members who appear to have held 5 calendar year terms. The original facade is in the museum (exhibits #46, #47, and #48), and at the time of my visit, the replica in situ was still being constructed.

The woven lintel pattern is reminiscent of the glyphs on Stela J, which is located near the causeway to the residences of the nobility at Sepulturas. This woven pattern reflects the woven grass mats the council members sat upon as they deliberated, and so Temple 22a name Popal Nah means mat house. The finished museum facade includes sculpture niches with seated figures that are directly over glyphs that probably represent the place names of those represented in this council. The original four sided structure 22a had 9 niches, representing each of the 9 council members. Exhibit #47 in the museum is the throne stone of Ruler 16, Yax Pasaj Chan Yopaat, the last ruler during whose reign Temple 22a was no doubt expanded and improved.

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Stella N, located at the foot of Structure 11 on the Great Plaza side, is extraordinary for featuring two successive rulers, a father and son combo, one on each side. It was commissioned by ruler 15, K'ahk'Yipyaj Chan K'awiil (AD 749-761) and has his image plus that of his predecessor and father, ruler 14, K'ahk'Joplaj Chan K'awiil (AD 738-749). Stella N is nicely carved all the way around. Sorry for not getting a backside shot of Ruler 14.

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Structure 11 is viewed from two sides during the guided tour, early on from the West Court, where Altar Q is located, and from the Great Plaza, adjacent to the Hieroglyphic Stairway. The West Court side provides an easier view of the whole of Structure 11, because the side facing the Great Plaza is mostly a forest of trees. Yet the forested side north side is the spectator side not only because it looks down on the Macaw Ballcourt, but also because it looks down on the astronomical constellation of stelae centered around diminutive Structure 4. It also looks down at extraordinary Stella N, and Hieroglyphic Stairway.

Structure 11 stairway appears to be a viewing stand for the ball court, but atop it hidden in the trees is a two story residence completed and used by ruler 16, Yax Pasaj Chan Yopaat, which is very ornate, having a sculpted roof depicting the mythological cosmos. The ruler's view of Structure 4, the symbolic center of the universe of stars or stellae must have been very important, although trees obscure this view today. This structure atop Structure 11 had four doorways with hieroglyphs on the walls of the building. Structure 11 is also known for having the Howler Monkey God which faces the West Court. All this is easier to see from the West Court, although the vertical wall on this side is too steep to climb.