The footpath from the city to the citadel is extremely steep and exhausting. The main road up the hill is also steep. Wear good foot ware especially when its raining and slippery. About halfway up Kalase A Tovanxhi there is a small shop. Opposite there is a even steeper short cut up to the citadel.
The only drawback of Berati is in the main square where buses and furgons leave. There is quite a significant number of gipsy children (roma? majup?) begging for money (no problem) but also coming up to you and clinging tight to your arm and never letting go.
Not dangerous but annoying - and better watch out for your money. A good escape is inside the nearby Hotel Tomori, which in case of necessity also stores your backpack for the day.