Shkoder Things to Do

this is the main mosque of Shkoder, and one of the most beatiful in Albania... like the mos tpart of mosque sin the Balkans, it was made during Ottoman rule

it is a mix of Ottoman with local Albanian architecture

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Shkoder was a huge enigma with horendous potholed tracks as you enter the city from the North then suddenly you come across collosal monuments like the 5 heroes one here, spotted about this sometimes semi derelict looking city.

This little church stands on the outskirts of Shkodra, along the road to Tirana and just where the second track that leads to Rozafa castle begins. It looks modern and I do not know its name. I am not an expert but I feel this is a Catholic church, which would make sense as in Albania, catholics are mostly found in the north, in and around Shkodra.

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The first photo was taken close to Muriqan, a small town 10 km from Shkodra and 2 km from the border. It shows in the background the Rumija (Montenegro) or Taraboshit (Albania) ridge with the road that we followed when driving along Skadrarski Jezero (see my Veliki Ostros page). If you enlarge it, you can clearly see the road.

Look at the point where it reaches the ridge, before going on the other side. This is from where was taken the second photo. Shkodra cannot be seen but must be in the plain, at the end of the ridge while Muriqan (not seen neither) should be in the foreground, on the right, out of the frame ! Sorry !

One planet away is the neighbour of Rozafa, Europe hotel. Here one can warm up its soaked to the bone marrow body and shop for Swarovski crystal – exactly the purpose of anybody’s trip to Albania. If a post card costs a Euro, there is no indication that your purchase is going to be a deal. Instead you are there to see and be seen by the local elite. The premises are protected by two thick-necked bouncers with impeccable suites, mild manners and suspicion-filled eyes. They will find the English-speaking staff members and let you wander in this Albanian island of paradise.

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When one has had enough of this exotic experience called Shkoder downtown, he moves to the main attraction – The Rozafa Castle. On the way up along the freshly paved road one can enjoy the view of freely roaming pigs from the attached mini shanty town. The castle itself offers the best views of town and the surrounding area including the confluence of two rivers and the drainage of a huge lake (by Balkan standards).
Inside there isn’t much to see since most is ruins and the museum is closed in January. The only respite is the restaurant adjacent to the museum. It is a property of a local strongman who has the taste or has hired people with ideas to shape it up. The restaurant possesses an attractive room where the typical Albanian (Turkish) setting is recreated. To feel ultimately immersed in Albanian culture and history, the visitor could dress up in Albanian folk costume (women only) or just have a picture taken in the premises for a well-indicated payment.

Rozafa hotel is well known landmark of the city. It is located in the very center. This is where the combi busses are stationed. All these advantages are not able to stop it from decay though. The rooms are miserable and the staff knows it. The receptionist urges you to go and see for yourself before you commit to “booking” the room. The price for a room without a bath comes to 1000lekke or 8Euros. This includes the heating when there is electricity. The rooms possess a sink as if to compensate the lack of one in the common washroom. The catch is that there is no water all the time. So wash and brush whenever water flows. There is no room for pampered whiners.

Shkoder Lake is the largest lake on the Balkan Peninsula: the largest part of it (60 per cent) is in Montenegro, while the remaining smaller part (40 per cent) is in Albania. Its surfact is of 150 square kilometres. The city of Shkodra lies next to the lake and the residents use the beach of Shiroka for recreation, although much of it is covered in rubbish.

Unlike its Montenegrin part, this Albanian side of the lake in not developed - touristically. The possibilities about, especially concerning birdwatching or lake cruising. it is only to be hoped that in the future people will make use of this precious natural resource.