Gjirokastra
The citadel at Gjirokastra is a Turkish fortress that was rebuilt by King Zog as a prison, and was also used for that purpose under the Communists. Outside on the terrace, there are views of the city and of the Drinos valley, also the wreck of a US Lockheed plane which, according to the communists, was forced down while on a spying mission in the 1950s. Inside, there is a gloomy vault, filled with large guns and made eerier by the cooing of a multitude of pigeons. The curator was slightly reluctant to show us the arms museum, stating that it was run-down and exhibits had been stolen. It certainly was not as new and fresh looking as the Skanderbeg Museum in Kruje. There were damp patches on the walls, and the oldest weapons had been stolen during the unrest in 1997. However the twentieth century exhibits were interesting, with weapons, statues, pictures and maps of campaigns. Some of the...












