Grinzing & Heurigen, Vienna
Vienna is unique in the world's capital cities in having large areas of vineyard right on the city's doorstep and a visit to Vienna isn't really complete without an evening spent in an heuringer, a wine cellar-cum-simple restaurant, of which there are scores in the wine-growing villages within just a few minute's of the city centre. Grinzing is probably the best known district to go looking for heuriger, though there are lots of others.
Heuringen sell only the wine made in the owner's vineyard. Food is simple, traditionally served from a buffet of hot and cold dishes so you queue to make your choice and then take it to a table. It's all very informal and relaxed, an institution as popular with the locals as it is with tourists. The heuriger we found our way to (a recommendation from Ursula/alusru) Weinbau Zawodsky, was tucked right away at Reinischg 3 in the 19th district of Vienna, the last place in the road surrounded by vines and I think we were the only tourists in the place. We chose our food and joined the other patrons outside at wooden tables set up under spreading trees in a garden and stayed until it was well and truly dark - a perfect way to spend a warm summer's evening. There was no music, not a dirndl-clad damsel or lederhosened lad in sight, just the quiet hum of companionable conversation and people enjoying themselves. Lovely!
We were a group of 15 people spending a weekend in Vienna. It was pretty obvious where we ended up going after a long day of sightseeing: It was time for Heurigen. Our local colleague and tourguide chose the Martin Sepp in Grinzing for us, basically because it isn't a real tourist but a "locals Heurigen", a traditional wine garden in Vienna's wine suburb Grinzing.
There's a self service buffet here. We, however, chose to be served our food and many drinks. I have never seen as much food piled up on one table! We didn't even finish half of it I think. For starter we got wonderful spreads and bread, followed by a soup. Too bad we weren't hungry afterwards anymore because the main course was amazing! Among it were Schnitzels, burgers, cooked chicken, gratinated potatoes, pasta and vegetables, pork roast, salads, etc etc. We could have fed several families with the leftovers. This wouldn't be Austria if there weren't a desert afterwards. It was really hard to enjoy the Apfelstrudel and Chocolate Mousse after all the stuff we'd had already ;) Drinks (wine, beer and soft drinks) were also included in the set menu. Because of all the food we needed so many Schnaps though, they had to be paid extra. I think I myself had "48 Marille" alone ;)
There was a man playing on the accordion all evening. He only had one problem: He seems to only know the song "Wiener Blut", he played it at least 9 times between 8 and 12 o'clock. He also played Tyrolean songs. The local people in our group could only shake their heads in disgust ;)
I can really recommend a night here. No visit in Vienna is complete without it even though it might be rather cliché and the wine is too sour...
The Heurige is a great way to sample some of the regions new wine and a bit of local food. This often includes sauerkraut which is not really my most loved dish. In the Vienna woods outside of Vienna there are a number of villages, incl Grinzing, that specialise in bringing in tour groups (it's more of a tourist trap I suppose) and providing plenty of wine and food plus a bit of music including the globally loathed piano accordian. Having said that the wine will likely take over and all you will be able to do is have a great night with complimentary hangover.
Dress Code: Casual dress code is fine - be prepared to get out of your seat and dance so appropriate shoes are needed.
If you'd like to get to know Vienna better, you should visit Grinzing. It's a place famous for its taverns and beer houses, where waiters and waitresses wear traditional dress, and where there's food, drink and music. Grinzing's also important vine-growing region where the famous 'Heurigen' (this year's wine) is served.
The main picture's showing the Grinzing church. Another 1 was taken in front of a tavern.
Grinzing is a small village located just outside of the center,it has a beautiful architecture and also a few nice taverns with live music.
This is also another nice night out in Vienna and you can book it in your hotel there.
They have also a super,white wine because this little village produce a very good and well know wine in the rest of the country.
I am sure that you'll have lots of fun here,nice homemade food, very nice music and better wine!!!! :-)
If you want to experience something very Austrian then you should head to a Heuriger where local wine, food and atmosphere are on offer. In the summer they have lovely gardens decked with vines and musicians playing around the tables. Most Heuriger are out of town towards the vineyards but there are also a few famous 'Stadtheuriger' in the centre of town.
As I used to live in the 19th district I have a few favourites and they are all around Probusgasse (U4 to Heiligenstadt and then 38a to bus stop Fernsprechamt Heiligenstadt. Walk up Nesselbach gasse and you are at the start of Probusgasse). Most famous is Mayer am Pfarrplatz where Beethoven once stayed. The food is excellent although not necessarily cheap. Try any of the other Heuriger in Probusgasse especially the Welser on the left side. You could also take the 38a bus further to the stop Grinzing or along Sandgasse for further Heuriger and Martin Sepp is quite a nice place.
For a Heuriger experience (only open till 10 pm) in town go to the Esterhazykeller (1st, off of Naglergasse, either U1 Stephansplatz or U2 Schottentor) or the historical 12th century underground Zwölfapostelkeller ('12 Apostles Cellar,' 1st near to Lugeck).
Heurigen appears to be a typical Viennese institution: suburban spot where people come to drink local wine in relaxed atmosphere. For some historical reason the food is not served at the table - you must go and buy it by yourself.
Dress Code: anything
This old traditional quartier (long ago a separate town) is a nice trip for dinner, as it has a lot of Heurigen (wine taverns) to enjoy a traditional austrian meal.
To get there take the 38 Tramway at the University (U-Bahn U2, Schottentort-Universitat) and get out at the last stop.
There is absolutely nothing more authentic than to be a typical tourist (ahem!) and spend a wonderful evening at a Heuriger - one of the many wine taverns with gardens in the hilly outskirts. Oh, and the more plain and remote they are, the cosier the atmosphere! Therefore, don't just try places in Grinzing. Try also those in Sievering, Pötzleinsdorf or on the other side of the River Danube in Stammersdorf. Cheers and a toast to a wonderful evening ahead.
Here is another picture of our Winegarten experience. Val and Ann recieve an international token of friendship from a Chinese man that they had posed for pictures with earlier. He is holding a one of our travel journals that he and his group signed for us. It was really a fun night.