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Mostar can be very busy with tourists during the day, as it is a popular daytrip destination from the Croatian coast. At night it gets much quieter and the old city with its beautifully illuminated buildings is well worth a stroll. So don't miss to have a look at the Old Bridge (Stari Most), the Crooked Bridge (Kriva Cuprija), the Clock Tower (Sahat Kula) and the several Mosques at night. Leave a Comment
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Mostar's old town is situated around the Old Bridge. The most important street of this area is the cobbled Kujundziluk alley on the east bank of the river. It used to be an old bazaar, where the local goldsmiths offered their products. Nowadays it is dominated by all kinds of souvenir shops, street merchants and tourist cafes. The history of many of these buildings here dates back to the 16th century. Leave a Comment
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My favorite thing about Mostar is that is has the potential of being a very depressing town. The war damage is extreme here, and although in the year that I was gone they did manage to mostly get the old Turkish bridge up and running they still have a long way to go. Yet, it's still a lively place. The cafes are great, there are some wonderful restaurants, and if you're like me and like to souvenir shop then there is loads of stuff to buy. It's cheaper than Sarajevo and has a small town feel to it. Probably because it IS a small town. I think it's definitely worth more than just a stop between Dubrovnik and Sarajevo. Leave a Comment
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More than 90 % of the 225 km long Neretva River flows through Bosnia and Herzegovina before it reaches Croatia. The source is situated in the Dinaric Alps. The river flows through a gorge in the old town of Mostar. Several bridges, including the famous Old Bridge (Stari Most) link the river banks in the city centre. Leave a Comment
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by acemj I can see why Mostar was a major tourist destination for many Eastern Europeans before the war. The area around the Old Bridge is really gorgeous, particularly Kujundziluk and the area near the Aslant Bridge where I snapped this photo. This is actually a restaurant located in an old stone building situated just above a cascading man-made waterfall. It's really picturesque. Leave a Comment
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by acemj I have a feeling the tourist information centers in Mostar don't see a lot of action. This one is located on the western (Catholic) side of the river, but when I went inside they really didn't offer me a lot of help. The lady inside spoke English and was able to show me a map, but it was almost as if I was bothering her from her book. Oh well. Luckily, I found another tourist information center (both were actually private agencies) on the other side of the river in the Muslim Quarter. Here the woman, who also spoke good English, was more than happy to spend some time talking with me and asking me about my travels. She offered me a map (well, for 3 Markas) and suggested a great restaurant. She also exchanged some Croatian Kuna for some local BiH currency, which proved to be a great help. Leave a Comment
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by acemj Mostar is situated in a lovely valley accentuated by the twists and turns of the green tinged Neretva River. From the private home that I stayed in, I could see this cross watching over the town and the war seemed so far away to me. Well, I must confess I was standing less than ten feet from bullet holes on the exterior walls of the home, but still, the misty rain gave the afternoon air a sense of peace that made it hard to believe that in 1992, Mostar was the scene of the most intense fighting of the Bosnian conflict. Three ethnic groups - Catholic Croats, Bosnian Muslims and Orthodox Serbs - fought a very personal war in a neighborhood brawl that left thousands dead. Leave a Comment
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by acemj My day in Mostar was marked by the dampness and mist falling from the sky. Somehow the grayness seemed appropriate in such a scarred and brutalized place. The rain was never too heavy that it kept me indoors, but it was just enough to keep the city's mood slightly dark. I ended up finding lodging in a private home above the Muslim Quarter on the east side of town, but I did notice a pension (looked kind of like a hostel) on the western side of the river on the street that runs parallel to it. It's located on the far southern end of the street toward the mountain. Leave a Comment
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by acemj Not all of Mostar is Ottoman inspired and old in appearance. I also noticed some rather bland looking, more modern buildings. However, one thing that nearly all of the buildings in the Muslim Quarter have in common is a damaged and war scarred exterior. Here you can see an office building that still shows evidence of a barrage of bullets that was unloaded on its front side during the war. Leave a Comment
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 "Don't Forget" by acemj The Serbs were chased out during the war, leaving the Croats and Muslims to battle it out. Because of less media coverage than in Sarajevo it is said that many more horrific atrocities were commited in Mostar. The Catholic Croats who lived on the western side of the river, held the eastern side of the Neretva siege for close to a year and expelled many Muslims. Even today, the city remains somewhat divided. The Catholics recently built a new church whose tower rises higher than all the minarets of the mosques across the river and the cross on top of the hill overlooking the city that is pictured in my previous tip, is seen as an insult by many of the city's Muslims. I am told, however, that the locals are trying to see Mostar as one city and not two distinct districts, but that is not the feeling that I had walking around on my visit. Despite the tensions, it is my hope that both sides will always remember that at least there is peace and that history cannot be allowed to repeat itself here in this beautiful town. Leave a Comment
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