In the street where we stayed, in the croatian part of Mostar, there is a muslim graveyard. They all died in 1992, and not many of them were old. The youngest one I saw was five years old, many of them were in their twenties and thirties ...
During the civil war Mostar was occupied.
Many houses were disturbed and many peoples died.
Mostar is still a ethnic mixed city.
Nothing has changed except the country which it belongs to.
The people live friendly together again.
For most of them it is very strange how the hard war could take place in Mostar.
Most of the houses and monuments are rebuilt now.
But some remain as a monument to remember how bad war is.
Mostar is a growing city.
So take the chance to see this traces. In few years there will stand new houses on the places.
You can find those houes if you go over the river from the railway station.
The houses stand parallel to the river.
20 km near Mostar there is one of the biggest Karst Sources in Europe.
If you want to drink some clear water you should bring your bottles with.
It is a very nice place.
There are also some restaurants with view to the source.
There are no frequent busses to Blagoj perhabs it's best to take a taxi.
Just some 10 km from Mostar to the south you have to see the source of the river Buna. Powerful stream of deeply green, cold and absolutely clean water (drinking it from the silver orientaly carved cup is an experience for itself!) is coming out of the cave at the bottom of monumental natural cliff. Extraordinary beautiful corner of natural beauty is enriched with history and spirituality: few centuries old Tekija - a monastery of Muslim spiritual Dervish order - is nested just beneath the cliff and above the river. There are no dervishes there any more, but you can feel the atmosphere of heavenly peace with the sound of the river in which they have been discussing the life, heaven, earth and universe during the past centuries. After touring the interior, you must sit outside and order coffee - made and served in traditional Bosnian (Turkish) way including special dishes (dzezva and fildjan) with complementary piece of rachatlokum (one of the sweetest things and finest sweets on Earth). And don't forget to enjoy it in Bosnian way: sloooooooowly. Take your time, sip by sip, listen to the river... Old water mill and some nice restaurants are just few steps away, serving delicious trout just taken frome the water. After that, you should follow the road alond the river and after some 8 km you will rich Buna, where the Buna river is embraced by Neretva. From Buna everybody will show you the way to another wonderful spot - the source of Bunuica, another short river streaming to Neretva.
If you have the possibility to go by car, then why not take a trip up on the mountains. The view from there, over Mostar, is absolutely great! If you are interested in the birdlife, you might see some interesting birds!
However - Keep on the road, as there might be landmines!!
And! If you are there in the summertime, bring water! My gosh it was hot up there..
It seemed that there were a lot of cops on the road from Croatia to Mostar looking to catch speeding forigners(limit is at 60KMH !!) be quite careful as there is an on the spot fine
By the way Mostar is quite beautiful ,even with the prints of war still marking the city and well worth a few days visit
Monolithic stone grave monuments, called stecci (sing. stecak), are very impressive standing tombstones. Some of them are rather heavy. Bosnia and Herzegovina has some 66,000 stecaks. The most impresive collection is located in Radimlja, Herzegovina. Radimlja is approximately a half hour ride away from Mostar. It is located 2 km west of the city of Stolac. At Radimlja, you can see a stecak with the image of the man with his right hand raised and many other tombstones with intricate pictures and details. The stecaks at Radimlja date back to the 15th and 16th centuries.
If you happen to stay overnight in Mostar... a very recommendable day trip would be to visit Blagai, home of a dervish shrine of a branch of Sufi Islam and also source of a spring with several restaurents by it. Good for fish dish. There are buses several times a day. Check the schedule beforehand.
In the Croatian edition of Playboy, number 72 from November 2003, I found interesting text. I'll try to translate the first part.
DRAGON OF BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
Monument of Little Dragon doesn't exit anywhere in the world. Injustice will be correct in Mostar. The biggest kung-fu star ever soon will occupy a pert of the square in the city which, even if it's tired of the collision of hard ideologies, didn't forget to smile yet.
Text: Gordan Zecic
Photos: Mio Vesovic
Interesting, isn't it?
In Santiceva Ulica (Santic Street) you can still see trails of war. I didn't ask anyone about a mines there so I didn't coming close. Those bags with sand are still there. Maybe it is good to remind people how war was stupid.
Can you imagine that cats are all around in the Old City? I don't know why but they are under the tables in the restaurants, in the shops, on the walls... Some cities has doves. Mostar has cats. A million of them.
Mostar is divided city. It has division on six municipalities. Three belongs to Muslims and three to Croats. Mayor and vice-mayor are always from different nation. We asked for several things in "other" part of Mostar and we got answer: "I don't know". Or: "It is there", as they talk about place on some other continent.
During my stay in Mostar, Muslim leader died. In east part of Mostar, every shop and institution had his picture in window. Flags were on half lance. TV editing classic music.
In the west part it was like nothing was happened. Croats flags were high on lances and you can heard loud music from the coffee bars.
As peace is "so far" here and we can not bring any decision by ourselves, there is something who will "keep eye on us". You can see lot of foreign soldiers, member of SFOR (Stabilization FORces) and armed vehicles in the city. From the very first time, soldiers were equipped with full war-equipment. Now, they look as tourists. No differences between others and them. They are buying souvenirs, taking pictures and having coffee with the local population and other tourists.
When driving or taking the bus along the Croatian coast between Split and Dubrovnik, you'll have to pass through the Neum Corridor. Other than Mostar, this is the only other part of BiH that I touched foot on the soil. This shot was actually taken from the bus as we passed through the resort town of Neum located about an hour and fifteen minutes from Mostar.
It's the Turkish House (built in 1635), a reminiscence of Mostar's glorious Turkish past. There are signs leading to it everywhere in town, so by definition it ought to fit in the tourist-traps list (and it is). The town of Mostar is owning it now, so I really encourage you to go visit it, if nothing else because they badly need every penny, franc, euro, KM, whatever they can get: you can be sure they'll spend it on something necessary. Think of your visit as charity if you are not particularily interested. I found the house pretty enough, to be fair... even if not exactly mind-blowing. Remember one rule: take off your shoes at the entrance.