Konoba Dvije Pecine
When wandering around Mostar on our second day we felt in need of a drink and a little rest.
The oudoor terrace of the Konoba Dvije Pecine (Restaurant Two Caves) looked inviting to us, as it offers nice views of the the Crooked Bridge (Kriva Cuprij) and the Radoblja river.
We directly ordered two natural lemonades (Prirodna Limunada), which is a popular refreshing local drink in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
When we wanted to pay, the waiter came and charged us 10 KM for the two lemonades.
He didn't present us any bill and disappeared quite quickly with our money. The same drink ususally costs in other locations in Mostar something between 2,50 and 3,00 KM.
For me it looks like the Konoba Dvije Pecine is either a bloody expensive place or our waiter just took the chance to rip us off. I must admit that we didn't complain as it is still a reasonable price for Western standards, but nevertheless it was just noticable to us that we neither got to see any menu nor a proper bill.
- Budget Travel
Restaurant Vrelo - Blagaj
The city of Blagaj with the source of the Buna river is situated about 10 km southeast of Mostar. It seems to be very popular for eating out, as many large restaurants can be found here.
We chose Restaurant Vrelo for our dinner, due to its excellent location on the river bank. Numerous tables are located outside on types of artificial concrete islands enabling everybody to dine just by the water.
They serve a large variety of international as well as local Bosnian meals. Fish dishes, especially trout from the Buna river, are among the specialities.
I ordered a beefsteak (Biftek) with egg, french fries and vegetables, which was good. To drink I had a local beer: Sarajevsko pivo.
The beefsteak cost 16 KM and the beer was with only 2,50 KM surprisingly cheap. Our waiter was attentive and helpful. Payment was possible in both Convertible Mark (KM) and Euro. The latter was even calculated at a very fair rate.
- Budget Travel
After our arrival in Mostar in the late morning we were quite hungry. As we had already eaten many Bosnian dishes in Sarajevo, we felt it was about time for a pizza.
On the way from our hostel to the old town we passed through the pedestrianised Brace Feija Street which seems to be one of the main shopping streets in Mostar. There we spotted the Pizzeria ABC which looked inviting to us.
The restaurant is located on the upper floor of the building and has a small outdoor terrace at street level. Although it was hot outside we took a seat inside at the window from where we had an excellent view of the street.
The restaurant is air conditioned and nicely decorated. The menu offers a wide range of pizzas as well as other Italian dishes.
I opted for a Pizza Mozarella and a natural lemonade. Everything was very tasty and with 8 KM for the pizza and 2,5 KM for the lemonade reasonably priced.
Due to its location slightly outside of the touristy old town, the Pizzeria ABC seemed to be frequented by quite a few locals.
- Budget Travel
Ascinica Misal is a small local restaurant for a quick meal. It has both tables inside and outside on the pedestrianised street.
We had dinner here on our first evening in Mostar. The menu concentrates on a selection of typcial Bosnian meals.
As we already had a filling meal that day at lunchtime, I only ordered a small portion of Cevapcici (Mala Porcija Cevapa) for dinner.
The Cevapcici came with chopped onions in a flatbread (somun) and were very yummy. The small portion cost 3 KM.
The waiter was very friendly and helpful. Ascinica Misal seems to be a good option, if you are looking for a quick local meal, which is not overpriced.
- Budget Travel
Old Town restaurants: Tables with a view
Carnivores eat well in Mostar, meat is central to every meal. Vegetarians may well get tired of spinach and cheese, the most usual combination for meatless dishes. The influence is strongly Turkish, with menus featuring lots of stuffed vegetable dishes and filo-wrapped fillings. Local lamb, terrific tomatoes, crispy cucumbers, salty farmhouse cheeses, yummy yoghurt - everything tastes so fresh with good gutsy flavours and generous serves. It may not be fine dining but it is wonderfully satisying and combined with a setting either overlooking the river or in a shady courtyard, its very conducive to lingering with a cold beer on a hot afternoon or another glass of wine on a balmy evening.
We've eaten lunch at Sadrvan (on the road leading to up to the bridge, on the west bank) both times we've been to Mostar, enjoying both the food and the relaxed garden atmosphere. Babilon, set on terraces overlooking the bridge (again on the west side) is rather more upmarket - and correspondingly expensive - is lovely in the evening as the sun sets and the lights come up.
- Food and Dining
Ascinica Dado: Cheap Food and Close to the Old Town
I first found this little café through Omer, the man that I stayed with. It’s just a café with a few tables, barely large enough for ten people, but the food is regional and very inexpensive. I think our entire meal was about $6 and we ordered everything that we wanted. It’s good for a quick lunch or for a light supper. I ordered cevipici (I think that’s how you spell it) and my mom got a soup and salad.
Aščinica: very traditional cuisine
Somehow the closest translation for "ašćinica" could be a "soup kitchen". These are usually, so to speak, "fast food" restaurants with fewer tables. Most of the food, that is offered in menu, is already pre-prepared and cooked. This mainly refers to food that is eaten with a spoon, like soups and stewed dishes.
Traditional Bosnian cuisine is rich of stew dishes that is prepared in a lot of ways. The most esteemed stews are made of beans, cabbage, kale, or green beans with small additions of cooked or smoked minced meat.
Favorite Dish: Except ready-made dishes, which is heating up, in aščinica can be ordered roast meat, grilled dishes, both meat and vegetables, famous čevapčići and various cakes.
According to the strict rules, which are based in religion, in aščinica is not allowed to drink alcoholic beverages. Today, because of the tourists, dispensing or bottled beer is tolerated but not wine.
Konoba Taurus: non typical Bosnian
Konoba (tavern) is atypical type of restaurant for Bosnia and Herzegovina, such objects can be find in Mostar, perhaps in Sarajevo but not in other towns in Bosnia. Taverns are widely distributed in the areas along Adriatic coast because it is a very specific type of restaurants that serves only food of the Mediterranean type and mode of preparation.
According to the type of food being offered, taverns should usually have low prices that are affordable for every guest. Unfortunately, in practice this is not always the case.
Favorite Dish: For tavern is characteristic that is served first and second dish. First dish is usually Dalmatian smoked ham and cheese, cold salad of octopus and cuttlefish, black risotto with cuttlefish, and rarely are offered pasta dishes. Second dish consisting of meat that is combined with a sauce of cooked vegetables, various bean and blue fish from which is made or stew or baked on the grill.
In a real tavern one can drink exclusively white or red wine.
Motel Kriva Cuprija: Motel Kriva Cuprija
As it was already late, once we got our room at Pansion rose, we headed to the old city for dinner and the easiest was to go back to motel Kriva Cuprija for its restaurant.
We found again our Spanish speaking friend and … we were the only one in the dining room and he was the only one to cook and to serve.
Favorite Dish: The food was not outstanding but fair.
The muscalica was fair but I had eaten more tasty ones in other places.
Grilled lamb was fair too. Sure that cooking cannot be outstanding when there are only two customers in a restaurant!
May be the food is better when there are more customers and a true cook in the kitchen!
- Food and Dining
Konoba Taurus: What an atmosphere!
This place was great. First of all, it's easy to find next to the Aslant Bridge (the mini Stone Bridge) in the Old Town. It's a tiny little stone house that is kept warm by a raging wood fireplace. The wooden furnishings add to the warmth of the room.
Favorite Dish: I ordered a river fish that I think was trout. It turned out to be two whole fish, grilled with olive oil and some light herbs and served over potato wedges and with some fresh tomatoes. It was absolutely delicious and very simple. The bread that was served was a much higher quality loaf than I was used to getting at most places in the region. I also had a good house red wine.
Konoba Taurus: Charming Stone House
Here's a shot of the outside of the restaurant. The word Konoba, I gathered, means something like "an old-time, local restaurant" and that description certainly fits this place. If you are visiting the famous Stari Most (Old Bridge) which will reopen in the summer of 2004, you'll find this restaurant just behind it at one end of the smaller, Aslant Bridge (Kriva Cuprija).
Coffeehouses: Smell that brew . . .
With Mostar's historic roots linked to both Turkey and Austria, it's no surprise that you'll have no trouble finding coffeehouses around town. I stopped at one just across from the post office (Posta) called Caffe Grande and also at another on the cobblestone street that runs parallel to the eastern side of the Neretva River near the Old Bridge (and just across from a tourist agency). The coffee was good and quite cheap.
Restoran Europa: Restoran Europa
Restoran Europa is nicely arranged and had a nice menu but unfortunately, they would not accept our little dog and we had to find another place.
It is close to motel Kriva Cuprija, on the other side of the bridge, so we went and tried the restaurant of motel Kriva Cuprija.
- Food and Dining
Pozorisna Kafana: A pleasure
The sensation of entering a restaurant riddled of bullets, in a half ruined town and to have a decent meal is something I never experimented, even in my years of war, in Africa. And the good food, with a clear local touch, was well presented and served.
The place seems to be (or to have been) a theater, and is located by a small garden, in the muslim side.
- Arts and Culture
- Historical Travel
Konoba Sadryan: Great Cevapcici
This small restaurant is located on the western side of the Neretva, just a short walk from the Stari Most on Onescukova. A great value restaurant with beautiful outdoor dining area, complete with small wood framed water fountain. As we were on a tight bdget we didn't eat in many restaurants in Mostar but we treated ourselves one night to a good meal. Turns out the bill didn't end up being very expensive anyway at around €15 for two mains and four beers.
Ate late in the evening and the atmosphere of the restaurant was very relaxing with the nearby Radobolja River audilble.
Very enjoyable meal in a comfortable, relaxing environment and good service.
Favorite Dish: Has to be the Cevapcici. A stalwarth of Balkan cusine, it is originally claimed to be Sarajevan and the best is to be had in BiH. The barbequed beef and lamb meatball/sausages are served in a delicious bread which is like a cross between a pitta and a naan bread. The Cevapcici is usually served with Kajmak (like a soft cottage cheese) and onion. Very filling meal which is available in 5, 7, or 10 piece portions. Needless to say I had the 10!
My girlfiend had the Grilled chicken with salad and was also impressed. Nearly forgot to mention the delicious Bosnian bread served with our meal.