Buregdzinica Ahmo: For vegetarians too!
Bosnians it meat all the time, it is hard to find vegetarian food. But if you see "Buregdzinica" on a sign, you can get bureg or other pastries with spinach, cheese or mushrooms. This particular one is right on the Bascarsija square. The plate on pic. 2, spinach pita, cost 2 KM.
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Inat Kuca: Dinner, a story and a view
We'd strolled along the riverside on the Miljacka's south bank from Bistrik into Alifakovac, two of the original quarters of the old Ottoman town, and saw ahead of us the restaurant, Inat Kuca. Now, the guide book had basically said "good food, lousy service" so we were a little dubious but decided we'd check it out and, if we liked what we saw and the way we we greeted, we might well come back for dinner that evening. Well, we did, and we were very glad we did. Charming surroundings, a smile to greet us, a chat about the menu - we were coming back.
Waiting for us on our return was the nicest table in the restaurant, a romantic little nook for two set in a deep window with a view over the river to the floodlit National Library. And the service was just fine - courteous, friendly and efficient.
The whole place is delightful. There are tables on three floors, the balcony of the upper ones overlooking the central kitchen down on the ground floor. It's furnished with low wooden tables set around with typically Bosnian- style cushioned divans and low wooden chairs. There are some lovely examples of traditional costume pieces and needlwork displayed on the walls.
There's quite a story attached to Inat Kuca. The name translates as "The Spite House" and it has had a chequered history. A traditional Ottoman house, its position by the river was in the way of an Austrian-era scheme to straighten and pave the south bank. The owner refused to sell his house to the authorities, saying "The Tsar in Vienna is mighty and great. He deserves all my respect but he doesn’t have money to pay me for my delight” and sat tight until it was agreed that his house would be moved to the opposite bank. So that's what happened - the house was carefully demolished and rebuilt across the other side of the river and the embankment work was completed.
The Austrians, intent on city improvements, then came up with plans for a grand City Hall and Library, and they knew just the place they wanted it to go. There was just one problem - an old house was in the way and, yes, you've guessed it! This time, it took a considerable financial inducement as well as the moving of the house to clear the land for the new project. And where did the house end up? Just about where it started.
Favorite Dish: We'd been promised the Begova corba (Bey's soup) was delicious, so that's what we started with. It came in big tin bowls, though apparently it's cooked in an earthenware pot to give it its particular flavour. It's true, it is delicious - a thick broth with finely chopped vegetables and shredded chicken all through it, a hint of lemon and that unmistakeable smooth thickness that comes from okra,, not that there was any identifiable okra in the bowl.
Inat Kuca prides itself on its authentic Bosnian cooking, so we opted for two traditional dishes - both stews.
Mine was just called Bosnian Pot - a deep earthenware bowl filled with a rich veal and vegetable stew, about three big chunks of meat cooked to melting tenderness in an aromatic sauce flavoured with cinammon, cloves and cardomom. It was wonderful and I made sure I had a spoon to finish off every last drop of the sauce.
MrL's choice answered a question for us. Bamija was a veal and okra stew. We'd seen the strings of tiny dried okra in the market - here they were in the stew, along with flavourings of black and red pepper. Simple but delicious.
A most acceptable bottle of Hercegovan red went down really well.
Morica Han: Restaurant in historical building
The Morica Han building is from the 16th / 17th century. Ambient is renovated with an authentic look, and wise words from the Koran (i think?) on the walls, written both in arabic and bosnian. Service is good, food is good and prices are low compared to Norway. Take a look at the menu in picture 3.
Favorite Dish: Hmmm, sarme! I have always preferred them in sauerkraut, but they tasted real good in wine leaves, too! (Sarme is meat balls rolled in cabbage or wine leaves, see pic 5.) And for desert: Baklava. And Bosnian coffee, of course, which is the same as turkish. For all this + a coke I paid 14,50 KM (7,25 Euro)!
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Restoran Una: Pricier Than Usual, but Good Food
We ate here out of default because we were in the old part of town and hungry. The waiter was standing outside, trying to get people to come in and eat, and we were suckered into it. Although it meant blowing our lunch budget way out of proportion, it ended up being very good. I couldn't eat like that all of the time, but once every few days was all right.
Favorite Dish: I had the traditional spinach/cheese layer thing. I know, i should remember the real name of it but I don't. For dessert I had crepes, but there was a strange, vanilla-esque liquid on top that I didn't care for. My meal was very good, however, and it was right in the middle of the old town.
Cevapdzinica Hodzic: Best meatball in the city
Cevap is Kebap in Bosnia.Their food like turkish food.Cevapdzinica means Meatball shop.This is hodzic is best.It is in the middle of the old turkish quarter and very crowded.all th elocals goes that shop.watch its chimnee.Always pumping delicous smelly smoke.
Favorite Dish: Cevap and Jogurt and Kopus (Cabbage )salad.
Sultan Sofra: Fine restaurant, but cheap :-)
This is a fine restaurant, but even here I was not able to spend over 10 USD. For espresso, corba (a thick soup with bread, pic. 2), kuzu sis of weal with vegetables and bread (pic. 3 and 4) and a coke I paid 15 KM = 7,50 Euro. If I had eaten all the bread with the soup, It would have been enough for lunch!
Turkish tea after the meal was on the house.
Nice ambient, friendly waiters.
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INAT KUCA: Traditional Bosnian food
Great ambiance in a very tradional Bosnian style built house right on the stream and right opposite the old Sarajevo library. The interior is unbelievable cute and the food is very nice. I tried some stew like meal that was served in a silver metal bowl. The prices were very ok. You should definitely trey one of the goulash type soups served in a silver bowl. What I liked about it is that it really has an interior that takes you right back a couple of hundred years in the past....
Favorite Dish: All cakes!
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FORINO BUREK: BUREK IS EVERYTHING
Name is Italian but Burek is %100 Turkish.But Best burek is made by Bosnians.My wife's
mother's roots from Bosnia and she makes lovely Bosnian Burek.But FORINO is best ever.Very less oil and lovely ingridents.Spinach-Minced meat-Cheese-Potato-Zucchini
Yummy yummy.They can eat Burek every time.Morning-Afternoon-Nite.Turks eat it just
in the morning for breakfast or at homes for special days.Wedding,Praying meeting etc.
This hsop is very european clean and lovely smiley service.Try the burek with Garlic yogurt dip.
It is like Turkish Manti.
Favorite Dish: My favorite is Spinach and Cheese .Try this one.But the other one with yogurth dip is nice too.
Cevabdzinica Zeljo2: Best cevapcici in Sarajevo
Cevabdzinica Zeljo, both 1 and Zeljo 2 are in the same street called Kundurdziluk. This seems to be the favorite place for locals to enjoy a "healthy" meal of cevapcici with onions, sour cream and yogurt. Cevapcici here are beef minced meat in a role served in something like a pitta bread made all on the grill. You can see a photo of the meal in my local customs tip.
Favorite Dish: Great snack!
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Fontana Palma: everybody likes sweet
Nice place where you can find cakes, ice creams, fruit salads..The coffie was also good.(beleve me I am addicted to it). I noticed that locals love to come here to socialize wit others, so it never was empty.
Favorite Dish: Cake!!! I am sorry I forgot the name...Full of chocholate, nuts and god knows with what else, but it realy was a treat.
I was afraid that this was going to be a tourist trap since it is just a few steps away from the Eternal Flame. It ended up being pretty good though and I had excellent service. The name refers to the old name for Dubrovnik and it seemed to have a good selection of Italian food.
Favorite Dish: I had the lasagna with white sauce and it was great. The best part about the meal, however, was the wonderful crepes I had for dessert. I still can’t put my finger on what was good about them, but it had to be a combination of the thick cream and the consistency of the crepes themselves. They were thicker than usual, more like pancakes really, and covered with bananas and chocolate sauce. I consider myself a crepe aficionado and these were definitely the best that I have ever had. I would go back just for them.
Zeljo, Hodzic or Ferhatovic?: Cevapcici Heaven
When you are in Sarajevo of course you have to try the original Cevapcici (Meatballs)! (Yes, everything you've heard is wrong, they are traditionally Bosnian!). They are served in a pita bread along with chopped onions and (Serbian) Ajvar. A very filling meet for little money, normally a portion costs around 5-7 KM.
There are different recommendations around about in which Cevabdžinica to get the best Cevapcici in Sarajevo. When surfing the web you read a lot about Zeljo, people told us a lot about Ferhatovic and still we went to Hodzic (because of its perfect location for people watching on the main square of Bašcaršija). Decide for yourself!
The waiter at Hodzic who spoke very good German was very friendly and entertaining and we enjoyed sitting here for a while, drinking many Cokes and watching locals and tourists pass.
Favorite Dish: Unfortunately I had a weak stomach the day we visited so I only had a drink. Thomas tried the Cevapi of course. They were good but apparently not as good as the ones we had in Mostar. According to Thomas they tasted the same as Bašcaršija smells ;)
In BiH the Cevapcici are obviously made without any pork because there are so many Muslims living here. The meat they use is beef and lamb.
Fantastic cafes in Bascarsija - Before the war
I don't remember the names of the restaurants and cafes we ate at in Bascarsija, Sarajevo in 1986, but it doesn't matter -- they were all good, and they might not even be there now. The restaurants had a heavy Turkish and Middle Eastern influence - to my American taste buds, the food was very exotic and deliciously spicey.
The Sarajevo restaurants we went to had a unique way of seating its patrons. We weren't taken to a vacant table if there were two vacant seats at someone else's table. That was fine with us, the more, the merrier. One night we joined someone's birthday party and they let us celebrate with them as if we were long lost relatives. The next night we ate dinner with an American movie director who was filming a B movie in Sarajevo and said Yugoslavia was going to be the next Hollywood of Europe for on location filming. We had never heard of any of his movies, but we tried very hard to be polite when none of his movie titles rang any bells with us.
- Food and Dining
All over the City: Bosnian pastery
You also must try bosnian BUREK. It is a pie made with homemade philo pastery and filled with a various stuffings. Usually you can choose meat, chesse and potato bureks, It is a great choice for breakfast if you don't have one in the Hotel.
Favorite Dish: Potato burek.
Park Princeva: Best panoramic view!!!
What can I say when Bill Clinton, Carla del Ponte, Paddy Ashdown and the rest of the political suite decided to eat there. There is a fantastic garden to sit outside, there is a fantastic view of the whole city, the service is great and the food, yum I wish I could sit there now and eat all the delicacies. And I must say I was in Bosnia but had a fantastic lunch without MEAT :)
Favorite Dish: Ustipci sa kajmakom
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