Maranovići is a village on a slopes of South East Mljet hills, with its back sheltered it sees the horizon of the Adriatic sea towards South. Like most settlements, it is small village, narrow corridors divide and connect the houses, where you can only walk to explore, so leave your car or moped or bicycle parked somewhere by the road at the...more
On the Northern coast of Mljet, to its east side yet by safe, sheltered waters of the sea there's small village of Prožurska Luka (or Prožurski Porat). Main settlement actually comes from above the sea, couple of kilometers distanced Prožura village in the hinterland and its inhabitants used to come to seaside for fishing. Only some decades ago it...more
Beside Zabrežje there are other villages under the highest mountain on Mljet clustered in village: Ocinje, Sršenovići, Hajdići, Zadublje and Andričevići. Behind them moutnain slopes of Veliki grad (513 meter above sea level) arise and villages are protected from Northern winds with its rocky surface and low bushes, therefore...more
Babino polje is a settlement consisted of few villages in hinterlands of Mljet , facing Southern horizon and apparently the largest inhabited area, though you cannot speak of large numbers as the entire Mljet population is somewhere near 800 or 1000 people.Zabrežje is the last village (or first one if you begin at that end) here; we went for a...more
The main 'attraction' in the village is its old mill from begining of 19th century which has been reconstructed in 2006/2007.Like any other traditional construction on Mljet it had been built of stone; its central place is large room where olive press is, because it is oil that was made in that mill and they used it until 1960'ies. During the oil...more
Although most of terrain on Mljet is rocky, its shores mostly steep.... you can as well find sandy beaches here and there. Saplunara is famous for its sandy shore, it's on the southern side of Mljet, to its eastern part. Hidden in small gulf and shaded with pines, waters quiet and clean, sheltered from winds. Looks like a good place for families...more
Blato is small village by local road towrards Kozarica, in hinterland Mljet above Blatno polje: it exposes few typical houses - almost all built of stone and surrounded by thick vegetation and gardens, taking place on a slope. There are nowsadays only some 60 people living there upon the words of old lady whom I interrupted when I admired wines...more
Sea and rocks in Ropa feel really wild and if there was no path it would be nearly impossible to reach water level. Beach? Well, it's more like a place to tight a fishing boat (...and there are boats), but you can swim, though you must have a little wild spirit yourself. There are rocks and sharp rocks and it's not so easy to get into water. It...more
I cannot imagine this place, Sutmiholjska cove in peak of season - they say it's one best beaches on island ... but then in September there were no other people there than local fishermen in small boats and once, there was yacht on sightseeing from the sea. I have no information on how many people actually spend holidays here... place is gorgeous...more
Sobra is the first village on Mljet if you come by ferry from mainland (Peljesac) or catamaran from Dubrovnik.Most its houses are nestled along the shore and newer ones are taking slopes of the hill which naturally shelters Sobra - from gulf quiet waters fishing boats depart to the sea daily and bring back 'the load' of excellent quality. Meaning...more
It takes short walk (about 20-30 minutes) from Babino Polje to the cave through olive orchards and vineyards and for the last part, on steep rocky side of the hill falling to the open sea - where the path had been built for easier approach. The cave is almost inaccessible from above, so if you want to get to the bottom, you have to try climbing by...more
A lot of secluded "beaches" that accomodate 2-20 people -actually mostly rocks. Go to "Amfiteatar" on the open sea accros of the Melita Island in the Big Lake. Dive into the cave of the size of telefone booth just on the right of there . Go see Odisey's cave. Swim in the Small Lake... Go to the sliding stones covered with some algae that become...more
There's hardly any night life in villages. If you're looking for that Mljet is not place to be.
Only by the bigger villages where they have restaurants by the sea (Pomena, Polače, Sobra, etc) and tourists there's actually something going on... eating and talking, drinking and sometimes when mouth is wet enough - singing and dancing, maybe every now and then with live music. This should not make visitor too sad - young ones we hanged out with will hang with their friends at homes and will go to Dubrovnik for nightlife. They will go in winter to cities on mainland for couple of weeks, depends... as you know, they spend entire summer working here without break. Not only youngsters, everybody else who needs some buzz.
Drivers and cyclist can get to Mljet by taking ferry from Prapratno on Peljesac peninsula (South of Ploce and Makarska, you'll see the signs) which has frequent connections with mainland.Updates to price and schedule is on Jadrolinija web site. It takes almost 40 minutes ride by ferry before you're on Mljet and you'll disembark in port 2 kilometers...more
There is ferry line from Prapratno (Peljesac) to Sobra (Mljet island) every day, 4-5 times a day.The price for one person, one way is 30 kn (~4 €) bikes are 35 kn (~5 €), motorcycles 60-100 kn (~8-14 €) and if you want to get the car, it will cost you 140 kn (~20 €).These were the prices while we were visiting. I don't think they changed much, but...more
Road stalls on Mljet are great place to try and buy local products and fruits straight from farmers hand. No middlemen involved and for the fair price, though little more expensive than stuff in shops, where quality and amounts are incomparable with anything made by hand and grown under the 'real' Mediterranean sun (mostly without fertilizers), on small extensive farms and orchards.
What to buy: Goat cheese in olive oil is half hard cheese, very tasty and healthy thanks to composition of goat milk, comes packed in a jar. Many small farmers on Mljet have a few goats by their homes and their cheese is all home made. Their goats get the best possible food, naturally grown on the island.
Olive oil you buy from a local is 1001 difference to one bought at supermarket, imported from certain countries and sold at low price. The oils produced here are lot more tastier, gentle and of pleasant smell. Olives are hand picked and then cold pressed - that way oils keep the essence of olive fruit and can be as well used for medicinal properties.
Honey is worth and well recommended to take home from here... like with goats, the bees get superb food in very clean environment.
Wines, dried figs, grapes, tomatos and other fruits... no need extra comment on that. You'll miss all that when you're back home.
What to pay: Jar of cheese in oil for 100 KN, liter of wine between 20 - 30 KN, liter of olive oil 80 - 90 KN.
Olive orchards are plentiful on Mljet and most of them are owned by small farmers which means somehow their oil will be too good to be sold at the shops - under their deserved price. It takes hand picking and involves work almost without machinery, on patches of soil near settlements or little further away. Orhards are treasure of a family,...more
Speaking of local culture you cannot avoid people's yards and gardens, as they are inseparable from houses, from villages... this is where living rooms on open air are, here life and socializing happens, and views of the streets are most spendid if not enclosed behind a wall.A modest yard will almost always have shade of vine, the local variety...more
Traditionally donkeys and mules were used as a working animals in many places in Croatian coastal regions. Now, things are little different and donkeys are replaced by obedient machines... almost entierly.... but nothing can replace his beauty and intelligence, let alone that they have some specific properties which make them be very helpful for a...more
In sum, here's what you should keep in mind sometimes:
- side roads are narrow and take usual precautions when you drive. If you see car approaching both of you will make compromise on who will give a way by moving to niches. Main road is fine, though winding, so drive attentively.
- if you're not very active bicyclist, don't make too optimistic schedule and don't underestimate hills on Mljet. Most of terrain is hilly and roads seldom take part in flat lands, except some by the National park, which are easiest to take. Once you head to hinterland, there're serpentines and otherwise winding roads.
- water: it's such a scarce source and until recently collected from rain in the containers. Every drop is precious, don't waste if not necessary. Only few years ago desalination object have been built, but still... be good with water.
- abandon the idea of dropping a waste anywhere but trash bins. Despite all well intented propaganda, there are still bunch of peoples who think there's somobody who will clean after them. It's very rude.
- don't burn open fires in nature and don't smoke unless you can safely remove the cigarette to trash. It's too easy to set a fire on the island, especially when dry and windy. The damage can be fatal and price of it too high. It's just not worth the risk.
- microclimate on Mljet can be surprisingly changing. On our September visit you had wind, cloud, little rain and when going couple of kilometers on other hill or by the sea, it was completely different. When one part of island is sunny, other can be clouded. Depends on time of the year, but in general unless you're visiting in hottest months, take a few different types of clothes with you.
- if you plan on camping: there are only three camps on Mljet, none of them is in the National park area (it was before but it's closed since few years). Ropa and Kozarica are both close to sea, but not at the sea directly. Kozarica has best shade of them all. Third one is in Babino Polje, in hinterlands, few kilometers to each side of islands, but it's not bad place. Just its shade is not very thick and it looked small. In September, only Ropa was open.
- ATM and Exchange: ATM is in Polače, Pomena and Sobra; exchange offices are within post offices (Babino polje, Maranovići) for official rate. There's also exhange office in Odisej hotel in Pomena, but don't know at what rate.
- petrol station: only in Sobra next to ferry station.
Modest ruin in the forest near Korita in the Eastern side of Mljet is all what remains from once St. Paul's church. Narrow, unpaved road connects the site to the main road and it's better you leave your car or bike parked there and walk some 500 meters among rocks, trees and bushes until you reach the ruin.
Two buildings used to be in the place: 5-6th century one-aisle presbitery with double apses and within it there was second, narrower building from 11-12th century. Both were stone built but little any other detailed information exist about them. In fact, you may find the site disappointing if you're expecting something dramatic, but after many centuries natural forces have done its work. Some people have speculated that actually St. Paul shipwrecked on Mljet when Bible mentions Melita - an it is ancient Greek name for the island. But there's other Melita in Mediterran and it's now known as Malta. That's why many things on Mljet are related to St. Paul though noone can confirm the facts.
However, the surrounding landscape is lovely, there were many butterflies and colored insects, aromatic bushes and herbs and forest that it was worth to stop and walk among them.
Mljet has excellent condition for numerous sport activites: swimming, fishing, kayaking and canoeing, diving, snorkeling. Diving school is next to Hotel Odisej in Pomena.Cycling: you can rent bikes in Polace in Pomena, there're no cycling paths alone, so you share road with drivers of other things. There are in general more hilly than flat areas on...more
RECREATIONAL FISHING PERMITSRecreational fishing is not allowed in the Lakes, and in the Soline channel.Special permit is issued in the Park Headquaters on Pristanište, for a minimum period of one day, and at the most for fifteen days (price - 600 kn per permit).Recreational fishing can be done by using at the most three lines with not more than 3...more
Cemeteries are small on Mljet and it's not hard thing to find one, if you're looking for it. Usually located by the edge of villages, with small chapel and a shade, few graves of families and solitude, they are modest. The one on picture is from behind Blato village in hinterlands, hidden a little between trees and bushes. No people there at that...more
If you're lucky you may actually see mongooses for which they say Mljet is full of them and hence called 'otok mungosa', mongoose island. The story about bringing them to Mljet is most interesting and it dates back to begining of 20ieth century when they were brought from India upon request of Austria Forest office, only six couples of them. They...more
Going to Kozarica is like a lesson of geography on Mljet: for its best part is not reaching the sea in my opinoin but diverse sights you'll enjoy while getting there. Once when you leave Blato village and continue further along narrow and winding road, you'll reach heights from where views towards Peljesac open to one side and a view towards the...more