Beautiful landscape and splendid, clear views open upon Kosirina gulf - here's also a camp which includes both naturist and 'usual' tourists, but we come here mainly because of clear and cool waters, rocky and pebble shores which will guarantee excellent snorkeling and swimming spots.
A shade is not so thick so we usually come here either early in morning or late in afternoon - these are the best hours for swimming anyways and beaches are not crowded then. Walk a little further for even better places - some beaches are quite lonely even if it's main season, just because most people don't walk that far (and it's not too far, anyways). Hills covered by olive and pine trees and Mediterranen bushes, dry grasses ... and stone wall divisions. Had heard cicadas all the day :)
Kosirina camp has decent toilets and a bar, but all that will be far away to walk at any time - so come prepared if you gonna walk further and pick the trashes back with you - there are some bad leftovers in bushes from people who don't care, so don't be like them.
The rocky and stone beaches are plenty on Murter and these are great for snorkeling. How diverse is the life on sea bed - and it takes so little to see it, though only through your glasses - a rather economic way to explore the water world comparing with diving for which you need skill and knowledge plus equipment and licence.
For some good spots in Murter head to Kosirina or Slanica - take a walk little further along the coast where are less people. It gets deep here fast, fishes are many and diverse, water too good to be true. Watch for the sea urchins which are many and almost everyhwere unless it's sand on the bottom - it is painful to step on one of them. Many sea cucumber there, too.
Betina is nicest, small town on Murter; its historic core has been well preserved with ancient streets and houses of stone. Main attraction is St. Francis Asissi church with red, onion shaped bell tower. The church was built 1736, it's centrally located in town and it is its highest building.
Betinian folk were famous for building ships and small port stays in quiet waters in the gulf, open to Murter strait which separates island from the continent.
There's small market by the road where you can buy fresh fish and seafood (don't come too late, best time is between 7-8 am).
Pebbled beach with view over the town is few minutes walk from the centre (but you could find much nicer ones).
On the main square sit down for morning caffee at one of the terraces outside - here's where locals go for chat. It's all relaxed and everybody is taking it easy. Lots of restaurants in Betina, small shops too and you can walk to Murter on short distance. Though: cars and pedestrian on narrow roads are not the best combination and one has to avoid eachother which makes walking a little difficult.
For us this place has became a must and we would eat at least once every time we travel to Dalmatia . Few similar style restaurant are clustered by the road Zadar-Sibenik, by intersection of roads to Tisno and Murter - almost in the middle of nowere, but that's just a first impression.
Favorite Dish: This place serves excellent seafood and fish from Adriatic sea. I believe their grilled calamari are the best right in their restaurant (of course we won't need to say that the best food eaten anywhere is by your local friends, but that's other story). Unless you choose other side dish with them, you will get automatically fried mangold and potato. Both and all are very nice food.
If you want something little extra, but not too unusual try their grilled crabs (skapmi na zaru) or octopus salad.
If you were already tired of seafood and fish, then they have fresh 'odojak', young pig or .... you can choose grilled sheep (by words of a family memeber, that odojak was just as good).
The all food was served with nice home baked bread and lepinja, which was lovely.
There have also vegetarian meals here and fresh salads on the menu.
There are two fish markets on Murter islands if you want to purchase fresh fish for your barbecue in camp: one is in Betina by the road - you cannot miss that one - and other is in Murter town, in one of old market places near the sea, near the port.
You have to come early to both to get fresh catch. There are few kinds of fish (sardines, orada, brancin, skarpena), shrimp and shells, sea 'snakes'. If you come 10 am you are too late or you may get last pieces; come earlier (6.30-8.30 am) for best choice of fish and seafood.
What to buy: The seafood and fish is best when is fresh - buy their daily catch; it's so much better taste when it's fried or grilled. Support local fishermen and Murter folk.
What to pay: It's not so cheap like you might expect. Depends on season and kind of fish (enlarge the photo for price in July 2010).
Learn to sail on Otok Murter in a small village Jezera. Best sailing school in Adriatic. And if you know how to sail, you can go on one of special cursing trips that school organize.
Favorite thing: One of my favourite sounds from the seaside is by cicadas - these are a few centimeters large insects who live in the bushes and trees and make interesting, loud, piercing sound. You will get used to it - hear them in a day time. They are harmless, they don't bite - and it's little difficult to see them: they merge completely with the color of the environment. There's photo of cicada here - do you see it, between the skin of the pine tree stem?