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Supetar is situated on the north side of the island of Brac, one of the most attractive Middle Dalmatian islands. The ferry line connects it with the town of Split. Supetar was built in the cove of St Peter by which it obtained its name. It is considered today as one of the main tourist centres. You can enjoy its cultural monuments, various sports and recreation programmes. Leave a Comment
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DESERT BLACA
Desert Blaca is situated on the west side of the mountain Vidova gora. It can be reached only by macadam road (around 6 km) and walking path (around 30 min. walk). Blaca has great cultural, scientific and architectural importance, not only for the island Braè then for the whole of Dalmatia. Desert Blaca is actually an eremitial monastery which was founded by the glagolitic priests from the mainland who escaped the Turks around year 1550. After the permission of the island authorities to settle down on this area, throughout the centuries this simple cave shelter of Ljubitovica became monastic and economic complex of great importance. The priests lived independently over 400 years till 1963 when the last priest died and the monastery turned into a museum. Monastery Blaca was built in an interesting position hidden between high cliffs of the canyon and this gives it a misterious charm. Within the monastery there is a church, then a school for children, a library with nearly 8000 books on 5 languages, an astronomical observatory etc. The monastery of Blaca will surely surprise you with its beauty and history, so don’t miss to visit this exceptional locality. Leave a Comment
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It's appropriate that Brac's island museum is housed in what is historically the most important building on the island - the Radojkovic Tower complex in Skrip. The tower itself shows clearly three levels of stone masonry - huge Illyrian stone at the base, a Roman mausoleum built on these and finally the 16th century tower itself.
The Illyrian remains are of Cyclopean proportions, huge stones that formed the walls of a hill fort, part of the island people's defence against invading Greeks.
The might of the Roman Empire swept the Illyrians away and the island became part of their Dalmatian possessions. Villas and vineyards replaced the hillforts and bunjes of the Illyrians and whilst slave labour cut the white stone of Brac from the quarries, rich men lived comfortable lives here - the number of fine Roman tombs and sarcophagi around Skrip bears witness to that. The grandest tomb was constructed sometime in the 3rd century AD on a base of the Illyrian walls - a cube of finely dressed stone surmounted by two huge stone arches. Legend says it was built for one of Diocletian's ex-wives, or maybe for her and her daughter - the quality of the workmanship is certainly high enough for such an exalted burial but the empty chamber we see today is not giving any clues. A little ladder and a low door in the museum gives access to the mausoleum.
The rest of the museum is given over to a small but significant collection of Roman and mediaeval exhibits as well as the usual collection of furniture, folk artifacts and photos found in provincial museums. Although only a copy - the original is in the Archaeological Museum in Split - the Povlja Lintel, a 12th century church lintel, is of major significance as its lengthy inscription (along with the contemporary Povlja Charter) is the earliest use of Cyrillic Croatian script yet found on the island. Leave a Comment Directions: If the museum appears to be closed, knock on the door of the house next door.
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Roman sarcophagi lying by the road through the hilltop village of Skrip are the first sign that this place was inhabited - and was important - long before the present houses and churches of the little town were built here. Walk around the base of the massive Radkovic Tower and you'll find evidence of an even older settlement. The tower shows three distinct stages of construction - at the bottom level, massive Illyrian blocks, above them distinctive Roman masonry (thought to be the walls of a wealthy man's family mausoleum) and finally, the 16th century defense tower raised by the islanders against the invading Turk.
The threat of the Turk was very real and so the tower is not the only defensive structure in the village - Cerinic Castle near the church is the largest fortified building on the island.
Amateur archaeologists will enjoy a wander through the village, identfying the remains of the different stages of sttlement. The Illyrians may have left just their wall which extends a short waybeyond the Radojkovic Tower in a north-easterly direction but of the Romans there is considerably more evidence. Apart from the sarcophagi and the masonry in the tower I've already mentioned, across from the cemetery you'll find a dressed-stone pond (the lovka), one of several they built in the area and the museum contains not only sculptures and other artifacts but it also gives you the chance to see the inside of the mausoleum in the base of the tower.
There are other pleasures to be found in a walk around Skrip - gardens bursting with fruit and flowers, ancient olive presses set into the ground, views across the surrounding countryside, the sound of chickens clucking, sun on old stone walls, the pretty curves of a baroque church facade - timeless sights and sounds that are part and parcel of village life. Leave a Comment
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Sumartin, at the very eastern end of Brac, is only 30 minutes by ferry from Makarska on the mainland. 15th century refugees from the hinterland of Makarska came here to escape the Turks who had invaded their lands. They brought with them their dialect and their customs both of which survived thanks to the isolation of the place they settled from the rest of the island. The date of their arrival in the area known as Sitno on 11th November, 1464, was recorded by the Fransicans monks who led them here.
The lands around Sumartin were owned by the abbey at Povlja so the new settlers were forced to turn to the sea to make their livelihood. Once land-locked people, they became fishermen, sailors and ship-builders and these crafts are Sumartin's main occupations to this day. As well as the ferry that plies back and forth to Makarska several times a day, the harbour is home to a sizeable fishing fleet and traditional wooden boats are still built in the boatyard across the other side of the bay.
Holiday makers will find an attractive little town with a couple of good beaches nearby and a small number of restaurants, cafes, bars and general services. The Franciscan monastery dates back to 1747, the parish church of St Martin is early 20th century. The monastery museum houses an important collection of documents and early books and a small collection of furniture, paintings and other monastic artifacts. You really need a car to stay here though as there is only a very limited bus service away from the town to other places on the island. Leave a Comment
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The dedication of Skrip's parish church to Sveta Jelena (St Helena - the mother of Constantine I) tells of an old island tradition that the saint was born here in Skrip. True or not (other villages on Brac also claim the honour but in fact Bithynia in Turkey is more the usually accepted place by both the Catholic and Orthodox churches) it's a nice little legend and the church that bears her name is a particularly pretty one as befits an Empress and the mother of the man who officially turned Rome to Christianity.
The present church dates from 1768 and its curving lines and mellow creamy stone make for an harmonious contrast with the solid grey strength of the Cerenic castle beside it. Sadly, since two of the valuable altar paintings - the work of a pupil of Tintoretto, were stolen, the church is nearly always locked.
The little Church of the Holy Spirit in the cemetery at the other end of the village is much older, dating back in parts to the 9th century and to lie on the foundations of a 4th century AD Roman temple. It took on its current appearance in mediaeval times. Look carefully at the graves nearest to the church and you can just make out symbols of their occupants livelihood carved into them - anchors for sailors and chisels and hammers for stonemasons. Leave a Comment
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