Roman sarcophagi lying by the road through the hilltop village of Skrip are the first sign that this place was inhabited - and was important - long before the present houses and churches of the little town were built here. Walk around the base of the massive Radkovic Tower and you'll find evidence of an even older settlement. The tower shows three...more
Sumartin, at the very eastern end of Brac, is only 30 minutes by ferry from Makarska on the mainland. 15th century refugees from the hinterland of Makarska came here to escape the Turks who had invaded their lands. They brought with them their dialect and their customs both of which survived thanks to the isolation of the place they settled from...more
Sumartin and Selca lie just a few kilometres apart but seperated by a high hill, St Nicholas's Mount, at the eastern end of the island. Inland Selca is known as "the town in love with stone". Everything here - houses, pavements, walls, stairs - even the gutters under the eaves - is built of the fine white stone from the surround quarries. It gives...more
It's appropriate that Brac's island museum is housed in what is historically the most important building on the island - the Radojkovic Tower complex in Skrip. The tower itself shows clearly three levels of stone masonry - huge Illyrian stone at the base, a Roman mausoleum built on these and finally the 16th century tower itself.The Illyrian...more
The dedication of Skrip's parish church to Sveta Jelena (St Helena - the mother of Constantine I) tells of an old island tradition that the saint was born here in Skrip. True or not (other villages on Brac also claim the honour but in fact Bithynia in Turkey is more the usually accepted place by both the Catholic and Orthodox churches) it's a nice...more
The only town on Brac's south coast, and the only town on the island not tucked away into a sheltered cove, Bol is the the island's most popular holiday destination and one of the earliest settlements. The choice of such an unprotected stretch of coastline for the settlement is easily understood once you know that there is a fresh water spring here...more
Upon our arrival in Dol at Toni's - figs and brandies were proffered to us and the owners showed us around their konoba. One of the brothers came out from the kitchen with an octopus draped over his arm and asked if we would like octopus salad as a starter. Yes we said. My friend ordered dorada and I order lamb for our mains. The octopus salad was...more
Whether you're looking for some cheese and salad for dinner or fruit for a snack, Bol's little green market, set out under the trees just one row back from the harbour, is the place to shop. There are a couple of supermarkets in the town, a small one near the waterfront and a larger one up the hill just off the Supetar road, but this is the place...more
The ambience isn't much - rather straight forward and modest. The food showed thoughtfulness and an assured hand. The owner/chef was personable and friendly. I ordered black risotto (very good) and scampi. The scampi were sweet and dense (though a lot of work for a little bit of meat). My favorite dish was the black risotto - the rice was cooked...more
After debating where to go for dinner - my friend and I decided we wanted to eat along the water's edge and decided to try Ribarska Kucica. The service was warm - the evening filled with laughter and the soothing sound of the waves. I started with gnocci in gorgonzola sauce with dalmatian ham. Dense - rich - warm - filling. A nice contrast to all...more
09/2005 - My friend and I had dinner here the first night in Bol - dalamatian ham, salted sardines, spaghetti de frutti de mare, grilled calamari. The only dud - the house wine - flavored with apples. Our next meal was for lunch - the lobstar salad was as delicious as the first time, 2 years ago. My friend had the rump steak with french fires -...more
We were here for lunch so crowds were minimal. The patio area looks over a leafy park - dinner in the eveing would an enjoyable affair. I started with octopus salad - tender meaty chucks of tentacles slathered in fresh olive oil. The mussels were plump, juicy and instead of the mussels being red-orange they were pale white - the white wine broth...more
Milna was actually very lively at night despite its small population. We went to a couple of bars, but my favorite one was along the main harbor (I'm sorry but I dont remember the name!!). There (and I think many other places), I tried "Mish-Mosh" (probably Mis-Mos on a Croatian menu). Mish-Mosh is basically red wine and orange fanta. The fanta is on the bottom and the red wine is lightly poured on the top....making it look kind of like a tequila sunrise. This is only for show though, because you mix it up to drink it which turns it all red. It may sound revolting to some people, but it was really tasty and refreshing. Try one!
Jadrolinija operates the ferry service between Split and Brac. The ferry port is at Supetar, on the island's north coast, almost directly opposite Split. It takes just over an hour to make the crossing.During high summer the service runs pretty well right around the clock with the last ferry going at about 1am and the first one of the day setting...more
Split- Supetar isn't the only crossing from the mainland to Brac. A small ferry operates between Markaska, south of Split, and Sumartin on the island's eastern tip. This is very convenient if you're travelling to or from Dubrovnik as it cuts about 60km off the distance between Split and Dubrovnik. It's also a good option if you're looking at...more
You can't really depend on the buses on Brac to get you all around the island - the island's topography and local custom works against any wide network of public transport. Buses only run out from Supetar to the main towns of Bol, Milna, Skrip and Sumartin so you need to hub in and out of Supetar to move around. There's no doubt having your own car...more
On the way to Zlatni Rat - we picked up some fresh fruit and home produced wine. The nectarines were especially succulent and juicy. I love the scent of fresh produce hanging in the morning air.
1. Lime washed roofs
3. Autumn fruit
4. Deserted beaches
5. Fishing boats
Come October and Brac takes on a very different aspect from the summer scene of holiday makers enjoying themselves and locals busily seeing to all their needs. With the vacationers gone, there's time now for local residents to see to their own needs, time to give an old stone roof a coating of lime wash to waterproof it against winter storms, time for vintage - to pick the grapes and make the wine. The cherries and apricots of early summer are long gone, now it's the rosy globes of ripening pomegranates that hang on the trees. The beaches are deserted, the pleasure boats mothballed - only fishermen venture out of the harbour now.
Visitors will find most of the restaurants and bars closed, the shops that sell the knick-knacks and trinkets, swimsuits and sunscreen that make a summer holiday all have their shutters down. The weather can be quite changeable, balmy days giving way to chilly nights. It certainly isn't the time to come looking for sun and days lazing on a beach but it's ideal for taking long walks that the often baking days of summer preclude and for slipping into the quieter ways of island life as it was before the tourist boom.
Before I left home, I took a glance on few guides and tourism pages: they all describe Bol beach as made of sand...it is not true! It is made of little stones definitely bigger than grains of sand!
Unique Suggestions: If you don't mind a stone beach, be patient prepared to share them with hundreds of tourists...
Anyway the water it's really wonderful!
Fun Alternatives: It depends on the kind of holiday you are looking for:
-quiet...run away from here and go on the other side of the island;
-have fun...it is the most touristic place on the island.
... off the beaten track as you can get, is the tiny chapel of Sveti Nikola, high on hill between Selca and Sumartin at the western end of Brac. Dating from between the 9th and the 11th centuries, there are several of these ancient chapels dotted around Brac, most of them concentrated at the western end of the island and almost all of them in...more
"...Skrip is the oldest settlement on the island. Set on the top of the hill, with its belfry, church facade and huge towers it appears like a town strangly lost in this karst. It is a monument in which three ethnic layers have deposited (Illyrian, Roman and Croatian) the evidence of their presence...."more
"...This little hamlet, set on the western side of that island just under the top of the mountain, seems somehow squeezed on the sunny slope, overlooking the sea. The fronts of its houses face the sea while their backs are turned to the hinterland and the surrounding countryside..."more
I was able to secure a Kayak, and paddle around the island. It was stunning, and water was clean and clear... I had a kayak waitng for me, and it's worth bringing your own kayak to this area.
Equipment: You'll need to supply your own kit.
Seeing our first bunje on Brac , and being told they were the houses of the Illyrians, we became intrigued with the lost tribes who built them. The name rang bells - echoes of Shakespeare studied at school - wasn't Orsino the Duke of Ilyria? The bunjes we saw didn't look like ducal palaces. Wikipaedia to the rescue - the Illyrians were the ancient...more
I think everyone who comes to Bol takes a photo of this house. With its three-gabled facade, faded pink walls and green shutters, it stands out quite distinctly . Facing west, it looks particularly lovely as the setting sun washes its old pink walls with gold. Like most of the old houses here, it has been in the same family ever since it was built....more
Two staples of the Mediterranean world, wine and olives have always played the most important role in Brac's economy. The island has been famed for its olive oil since ancient times - local legend has it that the first olives were planted here by a soldier returning from the Trojan wars. Whatever - there's no doubt olives have been grown here for...more