This is probably the most touristy thing to do in Split (Other than asking for the directions to the palace when standing inside it ;) but who cares? It's nice.
At Peristyle you can have a drink served by waiters of Luxor cafe on the steps surrounding the square. There are seat cushions around the square, if you sit down there you will be served. Definitely one of the nicest ideas to not destroy the look of the square by a big cafe terrace.
Favorite Dish: The square around. A gorgeous place for having a coffee! And good for people watching, too!
Probably the worst place I have ever been to. I ordered two coffees and they billed me with a whisky and coke and then called me a liar. Later I heard that the owner used to be illegal drugs owner. I wouldn't go there if i were you! TERRIBLE!
Favorite Dish: -
Our group of four stopped in for dinner due to seemingly reasonable prices and pleasant location in the old city right by the palace. This was probably the worst decision we made on our entire trip through Croatia.
All four dishes were bland and inedible, and the service was non-existent. The waiter "forgot" the instructions on two of the dishes (simple stuff like "no mushrooms") and shrugged it off when we pointed it out. One of the plates had basically cold food (including french fries) and getting ketchup took asking four times in a span of 30 mins (while our waiter was nowhere to be found, we asked another waiter who said ok, but didn't do anything). By the time the ketchup arrived, it didn't matter as the food was cold and completely inedible.
Our main waiter was gone for 30 mins after dropping off the food and didn't bother checking on anything even once or even looking up to see if we were trying to waive him down. When we finally caught him to get the check and inquired about the dish that was left untouched, he didn't care. We asked for the manager and he informed us that he was gone for the night and he didn't have his number (sure). He basically said that we'd need to pay for everything in full regardless of how we felt because otherwise it would be taken out of his pay (given the "service", that seemed like the most reasonable solution).
The final straw was when we agreed to just pay and leave. One of us gave him a credit card to pay for one of the dishes, specifying the amount. He said ok, but then smirked and informed us that he charged the card for the entire bill. We refused to sign the receipt and left (the charge will most definitely be disputed with the credit card company).
If you are looking for good service and food on your vacation, avoid this restaurant at all costs. You've been warned.
We didn't eat here so I can't comment on the food or waiter service as others have. What I can say is that there is probably no more atmospheric place in Croatia to have drink than in the 'Peristil' just outside the Luxor. It's a small square surrounded by the roman buildings, with subdued lighting and a guitarist playing every evening we were there. The price of the drinks were higher than any we paid in Split, but we didn't mind on the two occasions we wanted a special moment! If you live in the UK or Eurozone you won't find the prices high anyway. The drinks waiters were fine too, always available for orders and to get the bill. We just sat on the steps, having a drink and listening to music in a lovely place!
When we entered cafe on main floor, waiter suggested we go to dining area upstairs as we wanted to have lunch. Great suggestion. Menu the same as in the cafe on main floor which was busy and crowded on the rainy day we ate at the Luxor.
The warm sandwich we ordered was a good size with lots of nice fillings. And it was only 20 Kuna (about $3.60 US).
Service was good - friendly and polite.
Sit down, have a kava and enjoy the Cathedral and St. Dominus' Bell Tower. For eating in Split, check out my other restaurant tips!