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Split's balmy weather in September made us want to eat every meal outside. Luckily, outdoor dining is VERY popular in Split. We pretty much took our chances and ate anywhere that appealed to us. We never had anything but the best food in Split.
I fell in love with palacinkas (pronounced Pah-Lah-CHEEN-Kuhs), a popular Croatian and Serbian dessert we found at many restaurants. A palacinka is a thin pancake or crepe filled with ground walnuts and sometimes chocolate syrup. You can try this at home:
Palacinkas*
3 eggs
2 cups milk
1 cup flour
2 tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 cup walnut, finely ground
Beat eggs, 1/2 cup milk, all the flour until smooth. Add remaining milk, 1 tablespoon sugar and melted butter. Beat until completely smooth.
Heat vegetable oil in a skillet. Pour 1/3 cup batter onto skillet. When edges begin to brown, flip over with a spatula and cook for about 15 seconds. If these won't be eaten immediately, you may stack them with waxed paper in between each palacinka.
Mix ground walnuts with 1 tablespoon sugar. Spread small amount on an open palacinka. You may also drizzle chocolate sauce on the walnut mixture, if you wish. Fold palacinka into quarters and enjoy! Leave a Comment
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Visiting Split?
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If you walk up the stairs towards Marjan you will come to this great caffe with lounge seating on a big terrace. Just next door is the lowest view point with a splendid view over Split.
The caffe is located in the old Jewish cemetery building and is not very big. Don't expect any food here.
I had a bottled juice for 14 kuna. Leave a Comment Theme: CoffeehousePrice: less than US$10 » Currency ConverterComparison: about averageAddress: Nazorov prilaz 1
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Sure, we got this one out of the Lonely Planet, and it took us a lot of wandering around to find it. But the food was quite good, and there were a number of items that (amazingly) departed from the standard-issue Croatian menu. The shady outdoor terrace is a great place to sit. You know you're in the right place when the rest of the establishment is filled with Croatian businesspeople eating long lunches! Leave a Comment Theme: LocalPrice: US$11-20 » Currency ConverterComparison: about averageAddress: Sredmanuska, 4Directions: Head north out of Diocletian's Palace via the Golden Gate, walk diagonally and to the right through Srosmajerov Park to cross Zagrebacka street. Sredmanuska street is a little ways up on the left--you'll probably have to ask someone to point you there.
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On our second night in Split we had trouble finding a place to eat which had interior seating. Everything was full with tour groups or otherwise because of the cold Bura wind.
Finally, near the Golden Gate we found a place. The Grgur restaurant has indoor and outdoor seating and a great variety on the menu. Apart from pizza they have various meat dishes and salads.
The restaurant seemed to be a family run place.
I chose a Vienna schnitzel with French Fries for 63 kuna and a juice for 15 kuna. Leave a Comment Theme: OtherPrice: US$11-20 » Currency ConverterComparison: about averageAddress: Kod Zlatnih vrata 1Directions: just inside the Golden Gate to your left
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Until short time ago, I used to visit Split regularly and from that period have learned how and where to search for a good and cheap food. When time for "marenda" comes, around 9AM, just follow the locals and observe which restaurants are crowded with people. If so, it is the clear sign that the place is the right one.
The meaning of "Dalmatinska spiza" is complex but in short it means grandma's cuisine. The weiter suggested me to order grilled liver with pommes frittes and season salate. As for drink, I had glass of domestic red wine from island of Hvar and esspresso. Dinner like that cost me something less than 50 kunas. Leave a Comment Theme: LocalPrice: less than US$10 » Currency ConverterComparison: less expensive than averageDirections: in the old core of the town around Peristil
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Visiting Split?
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I ate at Buffet Fife one lunch time during a visit to Split in May 2007.
This small local restaurant (despite it's name, it has no Scottish connections!) is located on Trumbiceva obala, at the southern end of the promenade, close to the harbour.
My Split tourist guide recommended it as a good place to enjoy fresh seafood amongst local fishermen. If the local fishermen go there for their seafood, then that was a good enough recommendation for me!
The restaurant has an outdoor courtyard with wooden tables under a canopy, and a small interior dining area. We sat inside in a small dining room with wooden tables, benches and chairs and walls adorned with historical photographs of Split and local newspaper cuttings containing reviews of the restaurant.
The menu (available in both Croatian and English) is fairly extensive and includes for example:
Starters - soups, bread, grilled sardines, salads;
Seafood dishes - a large variety of pancooked and grilled fish (hake, smoothhounds, red mullet...) as well as squid and octopus;
Meat dishes - veal, beef steaks, grilled chicken, cevapcici meat rolls;
Side dishes - french fries, fried vegetables, potato gnocchi, rice;
Desserts - pancakes with fruit puree or chocolate sauce, ice cream and various cakes.
The service was friendly and efficient, but the language barrier caused a bit of confusion. My friend ordered grilled squid, but the waiter seemingly recommended another dish with sauce. My friend nodded and expected to receive squid in some kind of sauce. However, he actually received veal and tongue in a beef flavoured sauce. He enjoyed it though, so it wasn't a major problem. I can only assume that the squid wasn't available that day.
I opted for:
Silver hakes from the grill - Price: 40 Kunas (approx 4 GBP)
3 very tasty, salty, grilled hake fish. The fish was excellent, but I ended up with a mouthful of small bones until I learned (by the time I reached the final fish!) which bits not to eat.
This was as good as any fish I've had anywhere - very fresh and very tasty. It is easy to see why it is a favourite with the local fishermen.
French Fries - Price: 10 Kunas (approx 1 GBP)
A huge portion of thin, greasy chips with plenty of salt on.
Buttered rice - Price: 8 Kunas (approx 0.80 GBP)
As with the french fries, the portion was enormous. I wouldn't have ordered both if I'd known how much I would get - I just wanted a little something to accompany the fish.
Pipi fizzy orange juice - Price: 10 Kunas (approx 1 GBP)
As any seafood connoisseur will tell you, fizzy orange is the perfect accompaniment to a good fish dish. Maybe not, but it was the most refreshing option on a hot sunny afternoon.
A very good restaurant, right by the promenade and harbour. The seafood is a favourite with the local fishermen - you can't get a better recommendation than that! Leave a Comment Theme: LocalPrice: US$11-20 » Currency ConverterComparison: about averageAddress: Trumbiceva obala 11Directions: Located at the southern end of the promenade, near the harbour.
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I ate at Picaferaj Restaurant one lunch time during a visit to Split in May 2007.
This small, local restaurant is located on the shaded side street of Popovica Ulca, somewhere in the heart of Split's old town. It is located to the south of the promenade and the harbour, but you'd struggle to find it without a street map. We stumbled across Picaferaj while wandering aimlessly through the narrow streets and decided that it was as good a place as any to stop for a bite to eat.
We arrived at about 2:30pm and the restaurant closes at 3pm for an afternoon siesta, reopening again later in the evening. We were not rushed with our meal though and the restaurant remained open until we had finished our food, some time after the scheduled closing time.
The menu was typical of that in many of Split's restaurants. It is dominated by grilled meat dishes (including the Balkan speciality of cevapcici meat rolls) and seafood (especially fresh fish from the Adriatic Sea). Beyond those two options, most places, and Picaferaj was no different in this respect, offer a few Italian dishes, particularly pasta and pizza.
The waitress was friendly and spoke fairly good English - the only time we needed to point at the menu was to order "cevapcici", but that was due to our inability to correctly pronounce the local dish!
I opted for:
Cevapcici - Price: 40 Kunas (approx 4 GBP)
I was determined to try this local speciality during my visit to the Balkans, and Picaferaj was the first place (but by no means the last!) that I ordered it.
I was expecting some form of kebab - the guidebooks suggested that cevapcici consisted of lamb and beef rolls stuffed into a piece of bread, like a pitta. However, no bread was forthcoming - just a plate full of meat rolls, served with diced onions, lettuce, mustard and a tangy tomato sauce.
The meal was ok, but wasn't as nice as I was expecting it to be. The meat was quite grissly in parts. I had far better cevapcici in Bosnia later in the week (with meat that was much more tender and accompanied by bread).
A 5 Kunas per person cover charge included 4 slices of crusty bread, but it wasn't suitable for making the cevapcici into kebabs!
French Fries - Price: 12 Kunas (approx 1.20 GBP)
A small plate of extremely salty french fries. The cevapcici needed something to accompany it and french fries were as good an option as any.
Karlovacko beer - 33cl bottle - Price: 12 Kunas (approx 1.20 GBP)
We enjoyed a couple of bottles of the local beer on a warm Spring afternoon.
A nice little restaurant in a quiet setting. Nothing special and not worth making a concerted effort to find - you will find many similar places dotted around the narrow streets of Split's old town, offering almost identical menus. Leave a Comment Theme: LocalPrice: US$11-20 » Currency ConverterComparison: about averageAddress: Popovica UlcaDirections: Located on the quiet side street of Popovica Ulca, to the south of the promenade and harbour.
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I ate at Planet Pizza Cut on my final evening in Split during a brief visit to the city in May 2007.
Planet Pizza Cut represents the closest thing to a pizza chain in Split - we passed at least two branches during our stay in the city.
We ate at the branch that is located at the end of Marmontova, on the corner where this busy pedestrianised shopping street meets the waterfront promenade.
As you would expect, there are dozens of different pizzas on offer - ham and mushroom, pepperoni, seafood, cheese and tomato, Mexicana, garlic shrimp, vegetarian....
Pizza is priced at:
1 slice = 7 Kunas (approx 0.70 GBP)
1/2 pizza (4 slices) = 26 Kunas (approx 2.60 GBP)
Full pizza (8 slices) = 50 Kunas (approx 5.00 GBP)
As well as pizza, you can purchase cold soft drinks from the fridge, but not much else.
Planet Pizza Cut is open later than most of the restaurants in the old town, generally closing around midnight, making it the ideal stop off point for a late night snack.
I opted for:
1 slice of Ham and Mushroom pizza - Price = 7 Kunas (approx. 0.70 GBP)
A large slice of thin based pizza with (unsurprisingly!) cheese, ham and mushrooms.
1 slice of Mexicana pizza - Price = 7 Kunas (approx. 0.70 GBP)
As above, but topped with cheese, pepperoni and hot green chillies.
Cheap pizza slices on the go. An ideal stop off for a late night bite to eat when everywhere else is closed. Leave a Comment Theme: PizzaPrice: less than US$10 » Currency ConverterComparison: least expensiveAddress: MarmontovaDirections: On the corner where the busy pedestrianised shoping street of Marmontova meets the promenade.
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This local Konoba with wooden furniture has such great food! We went there twice, both times the food was fresh and of great quality. The service was friendly. We did have to reserve though cause everytime we dropped in it was full!
Edit: Went back this summer and the food is still great. I would recommand the shrimps cardinale, with local ham, these are sooooooo food!!!
a dalmatian dish of shrimps rolled in dalmatian ham served with rice with tartare sauce (shrimps cardinale). But those shrimps were to die for!!!!!!! The grilled vegetables are good too. and for the ones that like froglegs, they have those on the menu aswell. The mixed side salad is nice and fresh. Leave a Comment Theme: LocalComparison: about averageAddress: Ban Mladenova 7Phone: 021 396 138Directions: in the center, right behind the Perogative.
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This is a small restaurant near where we were staying in the old part of the city. We both had the seafood risotto and it was great . real creamy with lots of garlic. It was 60KM a plate. Theme: ItalianPrice: US$11-20 » Currency ConverterComparison: less expensive than averageWebsite: www.restran_nostromo.hr
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