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 Fjaka in Komiza - island VIs by KristaB Croatians living in coastal area, especially Dalmatians, are generally described as joyous people who love singing but waste their energy carefully. This specific state of low energy consumption which occurs mostly during hot summer afternoons is called FJAKA. People tend to sit or lay in shade, speak in lower voice or rather - have a nap. I think this Fjaka thing is one of main sources of Dalmatian wit and wisdom. In the area where tourists tend to ignore this healthy highly spiritual practice, locals adapt and sit in shade and observe the tourists running, snapping pictures and doing all other touristy things. Leave a Comment
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 Klapa by KristaB The tradition of Klapa singing evolved since 19th century in Dalmatia. It's main characteristic is harmonic multi tonal homophone singing, mostly love songs and stories about life of fishermen, sailors and simple people. The name "klapa" probably evolved from local speech of Italian town Trieste, where word "clapa" means bunch of friends. Traditional klapa songs are performed only by voices, but lately some also use instruments such as mandolin or guitar. DALMATIA, WEARY OF HISTORY (by L. Stipisic) Paths, entrances of fields worn deep by donkeys. Wells thirsty from millions of buckets. Backs of peasants bent from hoeing weary from day-laborer toil. Doorways of narrow streets worn deep by rebel's ankles, Festering sore of Dalmatia on thorn-bushes, Through the chains, hungry children tempted by breasts, And the people upright as stone columns, Dalmatia, weary of history. Listen -click on pictures with blue border. Leave a Comment
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 Fish with head and tail!!! by KristaB During and just after the recent war, fishermen who caught large fish had problems selling it, so they offered their catch on a lottery. So few years ago we bought a few tickets for this large Dentex fish. We didn't believe we might actually win, so we went to have a pizza. On our way back, we saw those fishermen waiting for us - Ha! We won! But! It took us some time to figure out what to do with it. We had no oven to cook such a large beast. Finally, we figured we could cut it to stakes and freeze it. You know, in Croatia, we cook fish in one piece. Filleting is something we rarely think about. Don't you think the roast tastes better than the stake? Well, we do, and the same rule applies to fish. So while ordering in a restaurant, be aware that you are probably going to get the whole fish served. In most restaurants, the waiter will offer to clean it for you near your table. But we prefer to do that ourselves. Messy tasty ritual. Leave a Comment
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 Coral polishing by KristaB Island Zlarin was and in a way still is known for it's tradition of gathering and processing corals. Brave men from Zlarin were diving all over the Mediterranean sea looking for corals, and local craftsmen were famous for their skill of producing high quality decorative items. An amusing anecdote: the whole willage would gather to say good bye to brave seamen and divers upon their departure, and one woman had to pee on their boat to ensure good luck. I was very sad to learn at local museum that the corals in the Adriatic are almost extinct due to uncontrolled gathering that went on for hundreds of years. So the man on the picture which I took at local museum is actually polishing imported corals, but using traditional methods. Even though having a coral necklace might feel good, I realized I would just encourage further devastation, although in another continent, but still not something I would feel good about. Let's try to think of the long term impact of our desires to obtain some local souvenir. Leave a Comment
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 The Bambi Molesters by diocletianvs Formed in 1995. under the influence of 60's garage and surf classics, Sisak based band The Bambi Molesters won sympathies of rock critics and underground rock audience soon after their first album "Dumb Loud Hollow Twang" was released in 1997. The whole album with 15 original songs was recorded in unbelivable three hours. Since then they have been playing regularly in Croatia and all over Europe and their fiery and energetic live performances helped to build their reputation as one of the finest and most original contemporary surf bands. They played as a touring band of the R.E.M. in several of their European concerts. In 1999. the band released their second album "Intensity!". Their 3rd album "Sonic Bullets: 13 From the Hip" features Peter Buck (R.E.M.), Scott Mc Caughey (Young Fresh Fellows, R.E.M.'s touring band), the Walkabouts frontman Chris Eckman, Terry Lee Hale, American singer/songwriter and Speedo Martinez, singer of the fabulous The Flaming Sideburns. In 2003 they made the remake of their out-of-print album "Dumb Loud Hollow Twang - deluxe" released with a bonus DVD featuring documentary about the band, that includes footage shot 1999-2003. covering band's different shows as well as Bambi Molesters' R.E.M. support act. Check their website for some mp3 samples. Leave a Comment
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 Maksim by diocletianvs It was only after he won four Porins (Croatian Grammies) that he became internationally famous - Sibenik born pianist Maksim Mrvica tries to attract young audiences to classical music by performing some of the classical pieces in a fresh way. He was born in 1975, began piano lessons at 9 (giving his first public performance at the same age) and performed Haydn's C major piano concerto with an orchestra just 3 years later. War broke out in 1990, but both Maksim and his professor Marija Sekso were determined that he should continue his musical studies. "There were a thousand grenades a day in my town," he says, "but you can't just stop living - you must go on. And the only thing I could find to help me was my piano." After five years at the Music Academy in Zagreb, Maksim spent a year at the Ferenc Liszt Conservatoire in Budapest. During this period (1999) he won first prize in the Nicolai Rubinstein International Piano Competition. In 2000 he moved to Paris to study with Igor Lazko, and in 2001 he gained first prize in the Pontoise Piano Competition held in the French capital. Soon after he was spotted by producer Mel Bush and last year his album "The Piano Player" was released by EMI Classics. Leave a Comment
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 Jinx by diocletianvs "One has to stop when it's the best" was one of the JINX's best songs and unfortunately they stopped their career as a band some time ago when the lead singer decided to get married and get a family which was also the time when their carrer was at its peak. Certainly one of the best bands that appeared on Croatian music scene in the 1990s, JINX are often told to have returned the pride to Croatian urban pop music. They were small but extremely succesful workshop that created hit after hit and soon became a category for themselves. If possible, don't leave Croatia without their "Retro / The best of Jinx" album that features the best songs by the band including the DVD with some of the best videos the group created for their songs. Fresh & Urban - the sound of JINX. Leave a Comment
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by acemj All of the local wines that I tried (all reds) were good. I was told the best is the Dingac, but I also enjoyed the Viski plavac from the island of Vis and the house red pictured here was pretty decent as well. For some reason, the quality of wines surprised me, but then again, if you think about the Roman influences here, it's really not that shocking that Croatia would produce some good quality wine. In fact, it is said the the robust red Zinfandel style wine was first made in Croatia. Leave a Comment
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by acemj I found that it was really easy to find a decent room in Croatia once I arrived. Before I left the States, I remember being surprised at how expensive much of the lodging is in Croatia, but once I got there, I realized it's easy to find a cheap room. What's the secret? Well, it's really not a secret that in Croatia it's very common to simply stay in a room of a local. All you have to do is show up at the bus or train station in any major town and there will be people waiting for you with signs that usually say "Sobe" (Croatian for "room"). You may also see a sign like the one pictured advertizing that there is a room available. In Dubrovnik, for example, you could arrive without a reservation and wander up the hill above the Old Town and see many homes with signs indicating that they have a room. You're likely to pay anywhere from 10 USD to 35 USD for a decent room in a good location. And there's the added plus of being invited into the home of a local and getting a small glimpse into Croatian life. Leave a Comment
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by acemj In Zagreb, a couple VTers introduced me to a great pastry called Kremsnita. It's filled with a custard-like filling that isn't too heavy and not overly sweet, but is very delicious. The top is a flaky crust topped with powdered sugar. If you want to try Kremsnita, look for a slasticarnica (pastry shop). Leave a Comment
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