Otok Susak Travel Guide

  • the homes in lower village
    the homes in lower village
    by picek
  • a combination of stones and sand is impressive
    a combination of stones and sand is...
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  • like red tears
    like red tears
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Otok Susak Things to Do

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    below sandy slopes 2 more images

    by picek Updated Oct 24, 2011

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    The younger part of a village is located in calm gulf Spiaza and beside its typical Mediterranean houses consisting core of the settlement, they built also some uglier surrealist post-modern buildings (ie Post office) after wwii here, whose once white facades are now fading grey. Well, they are just a few of them and can be seen easily as they are along the one only road from pier to 'centre'.
    One of largest terraces - restaurants, is along the main path here and also the most frequented beach on the island, school, police station and post office. Actually there are few nice hang outs and restaurants in lower part of a village and perfect people watch spots... all in all on very modest scale of course, as this is one of the rare islands in Croatia that hasn't been yet over run by tourists and over-built up by construction fever. There are few appartments to rent here for those who'd like to stay overnite, but as it seems majority of visitors come on a day trip from Lošinj. The nights will be very quiet.
    They'd say that Susak people are quite different than other, but that's the thing for ethnoglogist to argue about. I guess the town has some flavoured atmosphere nevertheless, at certain times of a day and season. Or, it's just the placebo effect?

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    houses up there 1 more image

    by picek Updated Oct 24, 2011

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    Susak has one village only and that one is separated into lower and upper part, with upper one being older and smaller. Both are connected with stairs and nice path meandering within houses and natural sandy walls - and as it' is only logical, the highest building is the church with bell tower, dedicated to St. Nicolas and dating into 1770. Thogether with tiny stone paved square in front of it, this is the centre of settlement and inside you can see the cross with Christ whose eyes are wide open... so called 'vivid eyes'. Previously on that spot there was the church of Benedictine abbey. The majority of houses here are stone built and in traditional style, which altogether gives image of unity and conectedness, though stone has to be brought to Susak from other islands.

    If you walk a little further outside a village edge, you shall soon see the small cemetery and a chapel, and then if you dare to go on - and why wouldn't you... you'll end into wineyards and lonely paths, sand corridors craved by settlers... to finally reach the sea and distant shores. It all ends there, nevertheless.

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    like in other times

    by picek Updated Oct 21, 2011

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    It is somewhat like a movie setting, the main street is dusty, short, unpaved road, enclosed by the low mediterranean type houses, it connects small harbour to the centre of lower village, till the beach and all main buildings. Few restaurants, a shop, kiosk, few houses and then you reach 'the main square' with local administration, police office, kind of tourist office next to doctor in a building built in style famous after the wwii. Then the square disperse in a system of narrow lanes among houses within the village while on the other side, it is limited by the strip of sandy beach and a sea. It is all very simple. This road is certainly unique in a form and an atmosphere.

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Otok Susak Transportation

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    airplane like feeling

    by picek Updated Oct 21, 2011

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    Best place to start the journey to Susak is from Mali Losinj town on Losinj island. It's trip worth few euros each way and depending if catamaran or normal public boat, the travel time between two islands can take from 35 min till 1 hr by catamaran (it depends where/if it stops) or 1 hr till 2 hr 30 min by boat with stops along the route at other islands (Unije, Srakane, Ilovik). Public boat is only few kuna cheaper and views from it are better than from catamaran. In fact the latter looks pretty much like airplane minus passport and stuff control and minus check-in and with air-con making you shiver from cold.
    I suggest taking earliest departures at 6 am. The last one from Susak (in what is considered high season by Jadrolinija) back to Mali Losinj is at 8 pm, you can buy ticket (if you didn't have return one) from kiosk next to pier 30 minutes before leaving. Winter departures are earlier.

    There's also an option to travel to Susak from Rijeka in which case travel time takes almost 3 hrs by catamaran and there is only one departure daily.

    Anyways, best is to reffer to Jadrolinija's web site for updated schedule and departures. If your time allow, it's great to take slow boat at least one way.

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Otok Susak Local Customs

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    tractor on Susak

    by picek Updated Oct 21, 2011

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    ... and mopeds are able to drive on the island. The place is off the limit for cars which makes it great to explore on foot and contributes to atmosphere of remoteness. The distances between the main sights of interest are short, between lover and upper village it's less than 10 minutes walk at the main path which ascends mildly towards the top.

    The tractors we saw were collegting bags from visitors when they arrived by boat and I assume they had it arranged before to deliver the stuff to their accomodation. It's kind of rarity today to visit places with no single car on the island and with unpaved, dusty paths, but luckily, there're chances for Susak to remain untouched for quite some time still.

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Otok Susak Off The Beaten Path

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    sweet home Susak 2 more images

    by picek Updated Oct 21, 2011

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    As soon as you set a foot on the ground, you will spot unusal hills behind a village - they're of sand and covered with thick layer of tall grasses - reeds on the slopes and tops. At some parts of island they rise above the sea like cliffs taking almost 100 meters high, casting shadows to the shores where you could find good place to swim or otherwise avoid crowds.
    Attentive look of the wall of such cliff or hill will reveal dark holes, plenty of them, one next to another; this in a way reminds to ancient human habitats, but there are birds taking niches here. It is yet another interesting feature of this island, which is so many ways different from others just couple of miles away.

    Nevertheless, depsite poor nutrition from the sand, there are wines growing at it in some areas and to reach from village into more distant vineyards, corridors were dug in the sand and used at times needed.

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    by picek Written Apr 24, 2007

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    Go and explore some of those corridors dug in the sandy soil of Susak, they're many and easy to find outside the village. Enjoy walking, the grasses on the surface will provide enough shadow during the heat. It's one of the things famous for Susak.

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