Vis Off The Beaten Path

A place of special beauty and a reminder about our impact on the environment.

Magical blue light, water like ink - if you dip your hand it will look like dipped into blue oil, beautiful and somehow eery effect, a glowing paint on your skin. But swimming is forbidden.

This used to be a home of one special creature - Adriana, the Monk Seal (Monachus monachus).
But this shy and sensitive mammal no longer exists in the Adriatic. In order to live and breed, it needs peace and safety of undisturbed coves.
First they were evicted from sandy beaches, now even a few sheltered coves became tourist attraction, so this gentle creature hasn’t been seen in the Adriatic for years.

I was thinking about Adriana and her pups while we were inside the cave, this one was a perfect palace for her, with flat areas above water and hidden underwater entrance. They have only one pup at the time, which has to be nurtured by it’s mother for the first 6 months.
More here :
Monk Seal

Entrance fee 20 Kunas (3 EUR) if you come by your own boat, different agencies offer transfers and tour for the price from 60n - 70 Kunas (10 EUR)

When I was in Vis, I loved most of all have a walk in Kut every afternoon at the sunrise...
It was very relaxing walking in the narrow streets full of cats and children...it seemed like the time stopped 50 years ago!
And the sound of the sea was so romantic...

Well if you are stuck in town without transport I'm sorry because the beaches are rather sad, but if you've got a scooter, bike, car or a ride head due south of Vis to Rukavac. Just before the end of the road turn right and park with all the other cars and walk down to this great little beach/bay.

As always, watch out for those spiky sea urchins getting in and out and bring a mat to lay on for the relatively flat rocks.

This former airfield near Plisko Polje was built by the British in 1944, constructed of steel plates (where did they get those from?) that were later removed and planted with Roki’s vineyards. The outline of the field is still marked by the pylons painted red and white.

This is a socialist shrine of sorts for the island of Vis and possibly for the old Yugoslavia. Supposedly this is one of the locations that Marshal Tito directed the war in 1944. Apparently it was once quite a draw with the tourist before it was clear how severe Tito’s crimes were and the disintegration of Yugoslavia. We were told by locals and a visiting agitator from Split (his self-given title) that apparently Tito was only at this location for a matter of weeks.

This is definitely worth a stop on the way to the top of Mt. Hum. It seems that some restoration work has gone into the site recently. While there are not any real caves (that we could find) there are some nice terraces and text (in Croatian) around the site.

High above Komiza to the south is the peak of Mount Hum accessible from the old road to the south or from a hiking trail that is purported to start behind the Benedictine Monastery.

High atop the hill you will find amazing views down to Komiza, out to Vis Bay, Hvar and Lastovo islands and far off to Split and the mainland.

If you are a good observer, you will find a lot of beautiful corner walking in the old quarter of Kut...an example?This characteristic window...

A small chapel atop Mt. Hum.