When the horses go crazy
Raiders were returning from the main square where the changing of the guard carried out. The path led them up the hill, with the steep Radic street that is paved with gravel road, so it is slippery in places. The day was hot, over 33 C degrees, and very sultry. The air was filled with anxiety and tension. All of a sudden the horses got excited and this big and spotted Lipizzaner attacked his mate and tried to bite him. Quite a bit is missed to come to be a tragedy but very calm and experienced rider managed to overcome and calm his horse. And so the parade of horses continued their way quietly, as if nothing happened.
Switching of guard
I was totally ignored by this guys who are deadly serious, keeping stiff faces and icy eyes that look in nothing. I greeted them with a good day but my greeting is "gone in the wind". I asked them how they are and do feel the heat of the day dressed in their uniforms, but it was just another unsuccessful attempt to establish communication.
These guys are dressed in traditional uniform of Croatian soldiers from 17th /18th century. The integral part of the uniform is a small knotted neckerchiefs, always in bright red color. It had very practical use, to held collar closed in the absence of button. Moreover, it served to put over the face as protection from dust, to cover and sustain wounds, for absorbing sweat around the neck, or as a filter for purification of impure drinking water.
In the time of the Thirty Years' War, 1618-1648, Croatian mercenaries in French service wearing their traditional uniforms with small knotted neckerchiefs, which aroused the interest of the Parisians. According to the legend, the Parisians were ask Croats, pointing to a bandage around their necks, how they call that piece of garment. As the soldiers did not speak French they supposed that Parisians ask where they come from, and answered Hrvat. Due to the slight difference between the Croatian word for Croats, (Hrvati), and the French word Croates, the garment gained the name "cravat" (cravate in French). The boy-king Louis XIV began wearing a lace cravat around 1646, and set the fashion for French nobility and then this new article of clothing started a fashion craze in Europe.
Zagrebački fenjeri - gas lanterns
The first public light at all, and that a single, appeared in the 17th century over the front door of City Hall in Gradec. In 1817 Gradec set up the first oil lamps, which were placed on wooden pillars and had weevil and glass cone. Already in 1858, oil lamps are set up to petroleum. In 1862 there were 244 oil lamps that burned seven street lamp lighter and seven laborers. First gas lamps lit up the 31.10.1863., then Zagreb had 30,000 inhabitants.
Revitalization project for gas lighting began in the seventies of the last century. This project provides for the four types of gas lantern, three of them are inherited as survivals and returned to use, while the fourth type reconstructed from old photographs. Implementation of the project began in the nineties.
Apart from Zagreb, there are only two European cities with authentic gas public lighting.
Welcome to the Upper Town
There are several routes from which one can start sightseeing tour of the Upper Town, but for individual visitors the usual starting point is almost always from the Funicular. There where ends short ride with the funicular, rises whitewashed tower Lotrscak which serves as a good landmark.
Somewhere around Lotrscak, at St. Catherine's Square, a city hostess might welcome you if time of your visit is from May onwards. She will be dressed in traditional costume from Sestine, a small village in the nort parts of Zagreb. Hostess will welcome visitors on behalf of the Tourist Office in Zagreb, offering free brochures or small gifts if lucky. In case you want it, she will kindly pose for your photo.
Sestine costume is very colorful and richly decorated with handmade embroidery. Unbrella is an integral part of traditional women's dress, it is unique and distinctive in color.
Muzej Naivne Umjetnosti
Croatian Museum of Naive Art was established in 1952 and dedicated to the work on naive artists of the 20th century. The museum consist of around 2000 works of art; paintings, sculptures, drawings and prints. The museum is located in the Upper Town at Sv. Cirila i Metoda 3, in a fine 18th century Raffay Palace.
In Croatia, naive art was at first connected with the works of peasants, ordinary men and women, of whom the most successful became professional artists. Among other works, the collection features early masters of Hlebine School. A number of naive artists developed a distinctive creative style and achived a high professional standards in art.
The permanent collection include works of Ivan Generalic, Slavko Stolnik, Mijo Kovacic, Ivan Rabuzin Croata, Mirko Virius, Ivan Vecenaj, Matija Skurjeni and many others. Croatian naive artists are in particularly appreciated in Japan, USA and Italy.
Central Post Office
It is always good to know where the Post Office is situated. The Central Post Office of Zagreb is located in Jurisiceva ulica 13, just a foot from the main square. It is operating from 8am to 8pm, everyday except saturday when it close at 1pm. The Post Office is closed completely on sundays and holidays.
Besides usual postal services there is Western Union too, what is good to know in case you left short with money and expecting to get it from home.
Zagreb loves flowers
Locals have highly developed sense of beauty and especially love flowers. Downtown abounds with parks that are daily treated, arrange with flowers and watered. Cituzens take care and look after their parks expecting the same from the visitors. Do not break the flowers and crops and do not leave trash behind when visiting the city parks.....
"Seljaci" by Ivan Meštrovic
This beautiful relief stand on the house nr. 4, which overlooking Trg Josip Jelacic but unfortunatelly not all visitors of Zagreb are noticing it. The house was built in the beginning of the 20th century by a local trader Popovic who ordered this relief from great Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. During Secession such a reliefs were often placed on the homes of traders.
The relief was placed in 1907 and showing group of farmers. It is made of ceramics from famous Kalina factory. This is first work ever by Ivan Mestrovic which was exposed in public. Never before and never later on he used ceramics in his work. The relief could be considered something in between mid and bas-relief.
This is, no doubts about it, the merriest sculpture in Zagreb but unfortunatelly not many visitors will see it. Not even citizens of Zagreb know it well and where it is located.
It is situated in a small park in the Upper Town, at the end of the western side of Strossmayer promenade.
Let's hang cloths instead of meaningless scribblin
Let's hang cloths instead of meaningless scribblings on the walls, it looks more attractive, more clean and its replaceable. This fine idea can be seen in Zagreb, in the middle of notorious Tkalca.
If you love girl, you poor coward, tell it to her in the face and leave the city walls clean of your stupid doodles.
Žena na prozoru
This sculpture, situated in the midle part of Tkalciceva ulica, is work of the artist Vera Dajht Kralj. It is one of those piece of arts which stand in perfect harmony with the ambiance. The sculpture is called "Woman on the window", and may have multifunctional meaning to those who are watching at it, but for real city experts it has one meaning only.
In the very beginning of the 20th century Tkalciceva street was the city "red light zone" with many bordels and cabarets. Ladies of the night used to stand on their windows expecting for the clients. It is what have inspired the artist to create this sculpture.
Gallery Klovicevi dvori
Klovicevi dvori is a nice manor situated on Jezuitski trg 4 in the Upper Town. Only some 15 years ago this manor was turned into the gallery which became one of the most attractive space in the town for the important exibitions.
Those who are visiting Zagreb right now shouldn't miss to see the exsibition in course, dedocated to Edgar Degas.
Open 10:00 - 19:00 every day except on Monday. Admission 20kn.
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Marija Juric Zagorka
Marija Juric Zagorka (1873-1957) was Croatian journalist, novelist and dramatist. She was the first female journalist and among the most read writers in Croatia. Her monument in bronze and over two meters high stands in the beginning of popular Tkalca since 1990. The monument is work of Croatian sculptor Stjepan Gracan.
Museum of Broken Relationships
Muzej prekinutih veza, as it is called in Croatian, is dedicated to failed love relationships. The exibits in the museum are personal objects left over from former lovers. Anybody could be a donator, each and every visitor of the museum if having such objects and willing to danate them.
The museum was founded by two Zagreb-based artists. After their relationship came to the end the two joked about setting up a museum to house the left over personal items. They also started asking their friends to donate objects left behind from their break-ups, and the collection was born.
This museum is winner of European Museum Awards 2011, for the most innovative museum in Europe.
The museum is situated in Kulmer Palace, Cirilometodska 2, in the Upper Town.
Admission is 25kn.
Open from 9-21, during a year, and from 9-22:30 starting from June till mid of October.
The Tower of Lotrscak marks the beginning of Strossmayer Promenade, which is situated under the southern wall of Gradec (the only preserved object of the defending system) and offers an magnificient view to the Lower Town. Strossmayer Promenade is one of the most favourite walking paths for its citizens, especially in the spring season with the appearing of first sunny days after long and cold winter.
Here you can see also the banch where Croatian poet, novelist and columnist of Zagreb, Gustav Matos used to spend every evening expecting twilight to come. His bench, where Matos used to sit down, have inspired sculptor Ivan Kozaric to create this unusual sculpture which in times become one of the city landmarks.
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