Vysehrad, Prague

This picturesque stone rotunda dates back to the 11th century, and is the only surviving Romanesque structure of the original Vysehrad fortress. It is one of the oldest buildings in Prague, and has undergone extensive reconstruction, including the repair of damage incurred as a result of a cannonball strike during an onslaught by invading Prussian forces.

The building has somewhat of a chequered history, having first served as a parish church, then a storage facility for gunpowder before being returned to its original purpose. Today it is a chapel, but is unfortunately only open during services.

Just a note for those with limited mobility. The easiest way to get to Vysehrad is on the metro, but the walk up to the citadel is deceptively long and quite steep, so be sure to allow yourself plenty of time. Otherwise bite the bullet and organise yourself a taxi if you don't think that you'll be up to the climb: once at the top, it's pretty flat.

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Of the many churches in Prague, the Church of Sts Peter and Paul in Vysehrad is easily my favourite and tops my list of crowd-dodging options in Prague! I find it surprising how little is written about it - and indeed the whole of enchanting Vysehrad - which make it one of those less visited gems that so excite me, especially in a city that attracts so many tourists!

Although there has been a chuch on this site from the early 11th century, when the Vysehrad citadel was established, it has been remodelled several times over the centuries, most recently at the turn of the 20th century, when the towers were added. The current structure is built in a pleasing Neo Gothic style and is surprisingly small compared to many of the other churches in the city, which gives it a sense of intimacy.

The outside is delightful, but it is the interior of the church that had me spellbound. Virtually every surface has been covered with colourful Art Nouveau frescoes depicting various saints of local significance (see photos) and the overall effect is breathtaking. As anyone reading my pages will know, I am a huge fan of Art Nouveau/Art Deco, and after days of Baroque interiors, this was like being served the perfect refreshing salad after an unremitting diet of overrich food!

For those whose tastes run to the more traditional, the church also has an excellent 14th century Gothic painting of the Virgin Mary.

Just across the path from the church is the fascinating Slavin cemetery where Prague's Great and Good are buried (see my travel tip), which should not be missed. Don't be put off by the sombre function of the place: I found that it had quite an uplifting atmosphere and many of the memorials are works of art in their own right.

The church is set amid lovely parkland with lots of trees and is a lovely place to while away a few hours, particularly when the weather is hot. There is a vineyard on the slope of the citadel towards the river, and presumably their produce is on the menu at the beer gardens and restaurants where you can seek refreshment for a hard afternoon's tourism ahead!

Just a note for those with limited mobility. The easiest way to get to Vysehrad is on the metro, but the walk up to the citadel is deceptively long and quite steep, so be sure to allow yourself plenty of time. Otherwise bite the bullet and organise yourself a taxi if you don't think that you'll be up to the climb: once at the top, it's pretty flat.

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Vysehrad is very important place of czech history. On the hill had been probably colonized already in prehistoric ages, the castle was a seat of czech kings for many years (till king Charles IV.) and also served as a fortress. In 11. century was built the castle, church, fortress and rotundas. The complex was destroyed many times, especially once during Hussite wars. Afterall, only the Church of St. Peter and Paul has been left.

The romanish church has a beautiful main door painted and interior is also worth to see. The entrance is 40 Kc.

This church was one of churches that I haven’t got opportunity to visit inside. Church os St. Peter and St. Paul have roots from 11th century, when Visehrad was the main location to Czech Royal families (for example, Vratislav II).

The Church is quite high, looks a bit like a copy of St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague Castle, just Vysegrad’s church is much younger, dated back to 1895, Neo-Gothic style. There is cemetery of famous Czechs around.

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This small cemetery is a cemetery of czech famous people, as writers, componists, actors, singers artists and scientists, from 19. century. All around are crypts covered by arcades. Here you can see very well according to the grave or crypt, who was poor or rich. Although there is an well known writer and did a great job, at that time his work was not honoured.
I just picked up some people (in the photos): Antonin Dvorak - czech componist, opera Rusalka, lived in 19. century.
Jan Neruda - lived in 19. cen. in Mala Strana. Probably you will see Dum U Dvou Sluncu, his house. His poems and work is adherent to Mala Strana.
Vlasta Burian - czech comedian actor, lived in 20. cen.
Karel Capek - czech writer, who among others made up a word ROBOT. Lived in 19. and 20. cen.

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The twin spires of the Cathedral of Ss Peter & Paul are an impressive site that can be seen from some distance away. The church was originally built in the 19th century but had to be rebuilt in the 20th century after suffering fire damage.
Open daily except Tuesdays, 9am - noon and 1pm-5pm.
Entrance: Adults 10 Czk, Children 5 Czk.

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“I see a great castle whose glory will reach to heaven; it is located in a deep forest, bounded by the waves of the Vltava. You will find there a man who is digging out a threshold. And because even the great noblemen must bow low before a threshold, you shall give it the name Praha.”
— Princess Libuse, wife of the founder of the Premyslid Dynasty, her prophetic vision of the greatness of Prague and its Castle

LEGENDS IN STONE The four stone sculptural groupings of Josef Vaclav Myslbek (1843-1922) depict mythological figures that are part of Czech cultural tradition; today they are located in the park near the Church of Saints Peter and Paul.

Carved between 1881 and 1895, these monumental works of art are the result of a competition, held by the City of Prague in 1881, to create decorative elements to stand at either end of Palackeho most, Palacky Bridge, which crosses the River Vltava.

Heavily damaged during an air raid on Prague in February 1945, the groupings were brought to Vyšehrad when the bridge was repaired and enlarged in 1947.

One of the most well known works is that of Princess Libuse and Premysi, her ploughman-turned-prince husband (see photo #1).

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Located south of the old city center, Vyšehrad is Prague's second castle. Like the more famous, and more obvious Hradcany, Vyšehrad is less of a castle, and more of an elevated platform for a cathedral. But it's no less grand for it.

Built in the 10th century, the castle struggled for influence with the rival castle on the opposite banks of the Vltava. When Hradcany was expanded to its vast modern dimensions in the 14th century, by Emperor Charles IV, Vyšehrad had lost the battle.

Today its most prominent feature are the black facades of the Cathedral of Saint Paul and Peter. The old castle walls also offer a great vantage point for views of the Vtlava and Prague across the rooftops. The cemetary holds the graves of notable Czechs like Dvorak.