Haapsalu Things to Do

2 more images

The cathedral has a side chapel which serves as baptistery. Usually this chapel is only mentioned in connection with Haapsalu's favourite ghost story, but there is more to it, that's why I am banning the White Lady into a separate tip.

The chapel is round, with a simple gothic vault and three windows. The baptismal font is standing in the middle. The stone font is dated 1631. Inscriptions are in German, two verses from the bible - a remain of German Lutheran culture in Estonia.

The modern statue on the altar, depicting a mother holding her child, is not meaning the Virgin Mary but a memorial devoted to the mothers martyrs of Estonia: the Estonian women who were deported to Siberia by Stalin's regime.

2 more images

Haapsalu's gothic cathedral is located within the castle walls. It is a rather plain and archaic gothic church with one single nave covered by enormous wide vaults without any supporting pillars. This feature makes it special, it is said to be "the largest single-nave church in the Baltics" (superlatives are popular everywhere).
Because of its good acoustics the church is often used for concerts and recordings.

Access into the cathedral from the inner courtyard of the castle through the museum (entrance fee).

4 more images

The castle is Haapsalu's main sight. It was erected in the 13th century when the place was the seat of the Bishop of Ösel-Wiek. Those were the times of the Christian mission when the tribes and peoples east of the Baltic Sea were still pagans, Haapsalu was a border fortress on the edge of the Christian world and wars were frequent.

The castle is mostly in ruins but still impressive. Some intact rooms around the inner courtyard host a museum about the history of the place and life in the middle ages. Access to the cathedral and the baptismal chapel is also through the courtyard and museum (see separate tips).

Entry to the castle grounds is free, access through the small gate in Lossi plaats (hint: free public toilets in the corner on the left). For the inner courtyard, museum, and cathedral an entrance fee applies.

1 more image

The little Russian church is probably not of much significance concerning its architecture, but the location among old trees makes a pretty picture. I cannot tell much about it because, and this sheds some light on the relationship between Estonians and the Russian minority, our guide did not show it to us and it is not on the website of the town of Haapsalu either.

3 more images

The Lutheran St John’s Church of Haapsalu was built in times of the Reformation in the 16th century with some later changes. Its basement was an ancient storage house. Note the altar with a 17th century stone retable and the woodcarved 18th century pulpit.According to the inscriptions, the high altar is dated to 1630, the pulpit to 1707. Both were private donations.
The reliefs and sculptures of the altar show (from bottom to top): the baptism of Jesus, an angel's head, Christ praying in Gethsemane, the crucifix, and Christ resurrected.

This church is a relic of German culture in the Baltics. It is not only the inscriptions in German language. The art historian and church researcher in me is amazed how much the interior, not only the details of altar and pulpit but the whole layout, resembles churches in the Lutheran regions of Germany.

The church is presently (Sept 2009) undergoing restoration works which are indeed necessary. The interior photos show how wet and run down the walls are. However, after asking our guide who had a word with the workers we were able to go in and see it.

2 more images

The 'square' is actually a triangle - is there a word for a triangular 'square' in English? Anyway, this location in the town centre used to be where the Swedes from the islands sold their produce. Haapsalu has a strong connection with Sweden and Swedes who settled in Estonia through history.

Among the trees in the middle a fountain with a cute sculpture has been put up: a boy with a fish.

The yellowish building with the red roof on the northern side is of particular interest to visitors. It contains an exhibition on Haapsalu's tradition in knitting, the famous Haapsalu scarves (see Local customs tip), and some arts and crafts shops where you can buy the products of local artisans, highest quality at affordable prices - herewith recommended for souvenir shopping.

Stroll and explore the narrow lanes of old Haapsalu with their little wooden houses and gardens. Bring your camera, there are many picturesque views. Due to Haapsalu's location on a peninsula, the water is never far away.

More photos in the travelogues.

2 more images

Haapsalu has a beautiful waterside promenade along the bay, along the shore named Aafrika, and to the Kursaal. However, in 2009 this promenade is a construction site. Access is not allowed but the sign is in Estonian and we, including our local guide, pretended not to understand so we could at least have a quick look. We had no access to the Kursaal and Tchaikovsky's Bench, though. It was very muddy and there was a huge shovel approaching so we quickly retreated. The quay wall and the whole pavement are being renewed. I do not know how long these works are expected to take. Maybe in spring 2010 everything will be new and beautiful, maybe not.