If you really like Roma music, it is worth going there at least once. From the Bashcharshija you may hear some exciting music at night which may be played in Shuto Orizari (Shutka). Roma weddings may last for some days, and so it is not strange that music is played there on the streets several times a day. You may go there to hear it close and to watch the bride's family dancing on the street. You can get some CDs of good Roma music not to be found in other places.
Take the bus 19 or 20 from the side opposite to Bit Pazar and you'll arrive there.
In priciple, there is little difference to other poorer (but not slum- like) neighbourhoods. But here, most inhabitants are Roma and here you'll get a more true impression of them. Don't fear, they are neither agressive nor robbing monsters. But curious. You'll get asked several times where you do come from whithout intention to speak some more phrases. And they will find you rather strange.
Most cautious you have to be whith your purse. And, of course, don't take valuable things whith you. Some little child may come and ask you for money. Better you don't give him more than 10 denars, otherwise five or fifteen may follow him!
There is also a market, where on sundays not only food but also older things are sold.
I ate in a small grill restaurant there and can tell you that is was not only clean and cheap, the food was also of fine quality. Take the place the waiter shows you and don't insist to eat there if he doesn't consent.
Sorry, I can't tell you when the last bus goes or leaves there.
If someone insists offering you something you don't want, the ultimative phrase to convince them to get away is "ne kamav" "I don't want" in Romani.