Bordeaux Restaurants

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Bordeaux' oysters come from beds in nearby Arcachon and the French consider them superb. They are indeed tasty and as they must be, fresh. Raw oysters are best savored with only a little lemon juice dribbled on them (along with their own brackish water). This is as close as we can get to their Robinson Crusoe state, wild, right off the rocks (called in New Orleans "salty oysters"). In France thet are served with lemon, crisp rounds of rye bread, butter, minced raw onion and raspberry vinegar. These are used as combinations with or chasers after each oyster. Of course there is an accompanying beverage, in France wine (here a Red Graves). Oysters are cheaper and wilder in New Orleans, my home (like the ancient Romans, we gorge on them by the dozens and so cannot compare that taste sensation with the inhibited French one seen here; this is one time when we feel quantity beats quality). Timid Americans only enjoy raw oysters when doused in a sauce of ketchup and horseradish(8:1) and two drops of Worcestershire sauce. Warning!!: ketchup is only known in France at McDonald's and horseradish (French name raifort) is only used in Alsace. So You must eat oysters as the French do, or not at all. Because of their price the French rarely cook oysters and the Larousse Gastronomique gives them short shrift (but New Orleans Cajuns know that the original French do not know everything about cooking). In New Orleans search out the many ways to eat oysters. It will take a week of eating!

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On our third evening in Bordeaux we decided that we should splurge on a seafood dinner. Chez Philippe was recommended to us by the concierge as the best seafood restaurant in town. (As of this writing it has been in business 35 years). Our dinner consisted of oysters on the half shell (See pictures and our discussion as a separate Restaurant Tip), grilled fillet of John Dory (their special preparation of this fish in which St. Peter found the coin), with a Red Graves (their suggestion) and creme brulee for dessert.

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On our visit to Bordeaux Sandra's parents were joining us for dinner and this restaurant was chosen for our meal.

The restaurant was quite nice, with large tables, good service and from what I recall, good food, but the hilight of our meal was dessert selection, which left everyone wanting more.

It's a typical chain restaurant with decent food, good prices, good atmosphere and good service.

Favorite Dish: I really can't recall what I ordered for my meal, I know I did enjoy the dessert sampler with 6 different desserts, YUM!!

Several places to eat on this square and the adjacent square around St. Peters church (happy hour for booze there!). Great salads and seafood choices - the menus are usual good value.

Try Milo's Cafe on the alley between St.Catheine road and Parlement Square - great kreik, also and other beers - sit in or out and be served.

Maybe it is a warm summer evening, you had a very full lunch and now want something cheap and filling for an evening picnic. There is a small but busy Pizza take-away outlet at the corner of place Saint-Projet. Large pizzas are freshly cooked while you wait. While I was there several local people came from the nearby apartments to collect pizzas they had ordered.

Prices are around 6-8 euros for a very large pizza (around 40cm diameter!). Outlet open lunchtimes (till 14:30) and evenings (from around 19:00 I think).

The only disadvantages are you may have to wait 15 minutes and you have to find a very large waste-bin to dispose of the box!

So you don't want to sit for two hours eating a full meal? Understandable, but not very French ;o) Though for a peckish nomad like me, Nomade Zone was perfect. And had a cool name! It had a steady trade of young people while I was there, the food was quickly prepared by chatty, friendly staff. There were a long list of toasted bruschettas available with a variety of fillings for between 6 and 8 euros. And a small choice of (mainly ice cream) deserts.

What was unusual was the way the bruschettas were served - on wooden plates like chopping boards.

All in all an excellent experience. And Nomade Zone is on a street corner with big glass windows, great for watching the world go by.

Open midday to late evening.

Between 12 and 2pm everything stops and the restaurants fill up! Le Vieux Chaudron is on a quieter street close to place Camille-Jullian and each day was filled with a mixture of French diners, old and young, couples and families. To be honest I was attracted by the very good prices - a 'formule' (set menu) for only 9.50 euros. And a glass of Bordeaux wine for an extra 1 euro. Perfect! You have a small choice of starter, main dish and desert, plus the obligatory jug of water and a basket of fresh bread rolls. I noticed that my main dish (liver and crispy chipped potatoes) was two or three times the size of the plates chosen 'a la carte'!!

The staff (an older couple and a young waitress) were delightfully relaxed, efficient and friendly. I passed the restaurant again the following day, it was equally full. Your biggest problem will be to find a table!

a very nice place in Bordeaux center
you will not imagine a so good place from outside, but as soon as you ll enter you ll be surprised by the place and the soul of this one, and as soon as you ll be on the first floor you ll enjoy the meals and wine

the name of this restaurant need some translations
le bistrot du 20
* number 20 (vingt in french)
* du vin (wine in french)
* 20 (vingt) different wine (vin) that you can "buy" in glasses
no, you are not drunky (vingt vins au verres)

pleasant place where you can speack english, spanish and french

Favorite Dish: all dishes are fine and generous
don t be afraid to ask about wine, and taste different glasses
you ll enjoy