Bordeaux Things to Do

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The stone bridge has 17 low arches, was built in 1813-21 and is 501 m long. Because of its construction it effectively limits the the passage of large vessels upstream (south), although the river channel is not maintained for such purpose. It is situated at the south end of "La Lune" and there is a good view of the river and city from its middle. The traffic on it is heavy and there is nothing of interest on the far side, so we did not do this. The traffic empties into a roundabout beyond which stands the Porte de Bourgogne.

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Although there is a heavily traveled boulevard (called Quais of various names) paralleling the Garonne river, it is possible to walk the pavement and the sights from the Quinconces to the Stone Bridge. We have Tips on these sights). At the northern end are the river cruise boats, then the Place de la Bourse. On the far side is an area of the city called the Bastide. The river makes a sharp bend at this point (the crescent is called "La Lune"). Looking North (downriver) one sees the tall Pont d'Aquitane. A little further up river from the Bourse is an anchorage of limited use for ocean-going cruise boats or other large vessels (the Port of Bordeaux is at various communities north of the Aquitaine bridge). The Porte Cailhau is next south and then the Stone Bridge with the Porte de Bourgogne just inland (each Porte is a Separate Tip).

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This building is essentially a museum devoted to the French Resistance and the Deportation in the last war. (We did not go in). In the park between it and the Cathedral is a statue of Victory. A peaceful spot.

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The Bourse sits at the North end of the place with a large Fountain of the Three Graces at its center. The buildings look out onto the Garonne river. They were built 1730-55 during the height of prosperity in Gordeaux. The building at the south end is the Douane (Customs House) which today houses a Museum on the History of a Douanes and particularly this one (fee; we did not go in).

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The Porte Cailhau is a landmark of the Old City. Its name refers to the ballast stones left outside it from the ships that docked nearby since this was the gate between the docks and the Place du Palais. The present structure was built in the late 15C by Charles VIII as a triumphal arch to celebrate a military victory. It was erected upon older remains.

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In a semicircle at the West end of the Quinconces sits the replaced Monument aux Girondins created in 1895. It was dismantle during WWII to use for scrap but was recovered intact and restored to this spot in 1982. It consists of a column-fountain complex standing on an elevated platform.In the fountains are horse-drawn chariots and figures symbolizing the Triumphs of Peace and the Republic.

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The esplanade (or place) of the Quinconces (1828) is a large tree-lined grassy area in Northern Bordeaux where an ancient chateau once stood. It is said to be the “largest square in Europe (29 acres). When we visited, they were packing up a visiting circus or fair of some sort on the grounds. It reminded us of the County Fair grounds in many American state capitals which have celebratory parks and special exhibition buildings. At the East end stand two Rostral Columns each topped with a statue (Commerce and Navigation) looking out onto the Quai des Chartrons, a parking lot, the Garonne river and tour boat docking area (covered in a Transportation Tip). Higher up at the West end is the Monument aux Girondins. Walking the interconnecting paths two statues are encountered of Montaigne and Montesquieu, “local boys” who made good.

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The theater has a fanciful trompe l'oeil backdrop and a similarly created florid proscenium. They are a throwback to the Palladian theater in Vicenza. The ceiling is painted in graceful symbolic Rococo female figures, who also appear in plaster and three dimensional on the support walls. It is hard to depart down the great stairs.