Périgueux Travel Guide

  Closer View with Detail
by hquittner
 
  • Closer View with Detail
      Closer View with Detail
    by hquittner
  • The Retable
      The Retable
    by hquittner
  • A Set of South Arm Windows
      A Set of South Arm Windows
    by hquittner
  • Romanesque Cloister
      Romanesque Cloister
    by hquittner
  • Gothic Cloister
      Gothic Cloister
    by hquittner
 

Explore Périgueux

Things to Do  

Arrive At the Cathedral of St.-Front
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hquittner 2580 reviews
Wall of Cloister and View from West
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St.-Front is actually built in the form of a Greek Cross but it is attached to a portion of an earlier partially burnt 11C church and the bell tower of 1125 that connects the two. It is modeled after St. Mark’s in Venice but the support of the domes is 4-square on heavy pendentives, although maintaining 5 domes. The outer domes are almost identical in appearance but if the church is seen from a distance on the southeast near the river (as pictured in other Tips), it looks like the other linear three domes churches of the group. (Below we give a web site with a diagram of the church). The comprehension of all this is made more difficult by the uglifications of Paul Abadie starting in 1852. He was a highly regarded disciple of Viollet-le-Duc and the domes inspired him to add spiky turrets all over the church and to rebuild and cap the 4 story belfry with a heavy conical cupola making the church more Byzantine than before. He was so enamored of his work that he derived the plans for his next church Sacre -Coeur on Montmartre from it, starting in 1876. It too was vilified for half a century like its coeval the Eiffel Tower until they became the landmarks of Paris.

Updated Apr 4, 2011

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Exit Through the Cloister
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Romanesque Cloister
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The different sides of the cloisters are from the 12 ,13 and 16C, hence two have Romanesque and two have Gothic arches The upper part of the belfry is now the fountain in the center of the cloister. When we visited they were setting up tables for a seminar lunch there. What an inspirational idea! The cloister is to the south of the church (its east wall and street entry is seen in our first outside picture from La Pl. de la Clautre).

Written Jun 20, 2009

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Cathedral of St.-Front: Some Other Details
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The Retable
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The Retable detail is hard to see in the dim light. The carved pulpit seems to be of the same period. In the arms the light is better with two levels of windows

Written Jun 20, 2009

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Enter the Cathedral of St.-Front
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View Toward Altar from West
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The interior of the church is spacious as intended but rather stark. Note the pendentives. The east dome is the choir and altar ending in an oven-vaulted apse. There is a Baroque walnut retable behind the Altar.

Written Jun 20, 2009

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Cool caves
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Near Sarlat are many caves that were inhabited in the Stone Age. Lascaux is the most famous, but there are many more caves to see.

Written Dec 27, 2002

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Dordogne countryside
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The land surrounding Perigueux is very pretty. Tere are lots of rolling hills, fast-flowing rivers and little forests to explore!

Written Dec 27, 2002

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Medieval miracle!
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As I said, the cathedral is the thing to visit here. Stroll around the old town and you'll end up here anyway.

Written Dec 27, 2002

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Hotels  

Ibis Perigueux

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Transportation  

Get there
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You need a car as public transport is very limited. The best way to get there from the north is to go from Paris to Limoges and then follow the main road to Perigueux. The map shows the department of Dordogne.

Written Dec 27, 2002

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Favorites  

Ecclesiatical extasy!
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Favorite thing: Even if you only pass through the town, make sure to briefly visit the cathedral. It was modelled after Venice's San Marco and it shows from the domes. The adjacent courtyard is a haven of tranquility in this busy market town.

Fondest memory: Wandering around the courtyard of the cathedral - amazingly enough without hordes of tourists! I love these medieval delights and together with the beautiful weather it wasn't hard to enjoy this afternoon.

Written Dec 27, 2002

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Map of Périgueux