Fun things to do in Bayeux

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This is the largest British WWII cemetery in France. It contains over 4,000 graves - 3,395 from the United Kingdom.

The place is beautifully maintained and is a peaceful spot to walk around with your thoughts. I think it is important to visit these places and to walk up and down the rows of crosses. To lose so many young people is the price that was paid for our freedom today.

I always try and walk down rows which I think haven't been walked down for a while. We visited just after the 65th anniversary of D-Day and so saw the recently laid wreath from Prince Charles.

Across the road is the Commonwealth War Graves Commission memorial.

Gold Beach, in the area around the village of Arromanches. is mostly low and flat with houses built right up to the edge of the water. Outside of town, there are many steep cliffs that British Commando units scaled on the morning of the invasion of Normandy in World War II.

There is PLENTY to see in and around Bayeux, even wthout a car. The town is very compact, inside the Ring Road ("Le By-Pass" to the locals), approx 1 X 2 km in size. And, contrary to popular myth, the locals are VERY friendly !

For art nuts, the guidebook (get one free at any large shop) lists the Musee Baron Gerard (porcelain and lace paintings), two lace-making workshops, a china-porcelain workshop,and a tapestry-stitching workshop. Also interesting exterior architecture on numerous old buildings, to say nothing of the Bayeux Tapestry. You can get by public transport (inquire at Tourist Office or Hotel Churchill) to Avranches and Mont St-Michel (a must-see), where the Avranches museum has 100 medieval illuminated manuscripts from Mt. St-M.

There are many shops selling grocs, cheese, breads, wine, cider, etc in Bayeux on Rue Larcher-Rue Foch just behind the Cathedral. Many inexpensive sidewalk cafes on Rue St-Jean going east from the River. Be sure to drink plenty of apple cider, a Normandy specialty, better than beer. Also, Camembert cheese in made in the nearby town of that name.

Good place to stay - the "Manoir a Pont Rouge", 2 km south of the Cathedral, in St. Loup Hors. It's a British-run B&B, in a 1700's manor house, charming and relatively inexpensive. See posts on VirtualTourist.com about it.

Not interested in WW II ? You WILL be, after taking one of the fascinating tours offered by www.Battlebus.fr These are designed for everyday tourists, not militaria buffs, and are ABSOLUTELY FASCINATING AND INSPIRING.

Enjoy !

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An embroidery of course but the oldest large piece of material you will ever see. After barely surviving for almost 750 years Napoleon and subsequent enlightened others have protected it and after surviving two WW it is now protected even from thoughtless photographers. (We have suggestions about a visit under Warnings!). It is almost certain that it was commissioned from an English workshop by Bishop Odo (Eudes) of Bayeux, half-brother and comrade in arms of William after the victory at Hastings and was definitely hung along the cathedral nave at its dedication (1077). (The egocentric Bishop appears by name and figure at least twice in the story, among the rarely named minor characters). We have decided on 5 scenes from the story: 1) Harold and William meet with English King Edward who tells them that Harold should succeed him. 2) Harold goes ahunting in Brittany and is captured by its Duke; as his now
vassal he helps in maneuvers near Mont St-Michel rescuing a fighter from the quicksand; he is soon ceded to William who releases him to return to England when he declares fealty to William. 3) King Edward dies and is buried in Westminster Abbey. Harold becomes King (breaking his oath). Preparations for the invasion and the battle then follow. 4) During the battle William's men are in panic from rumors that he is killed. He takes off his helmet and rallies them. 5) Harold is killed.

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Inside the magnificent mansion Hotel du Doyen, next to the cathedral Notre Dame in Bayeux, one of it's old handwork guildes still is alive in the conservatory of Bayeux lace. These fine textile handworks, in early medieval times an art that was especially present in centres of trade like the upcoming towns and cities in North Western Europe (Flanders, Holland, North-Western-France and Normandy). Up to today this art is embraced by tourists and in Bayeux this resulted in a active group that maintain a museum, as well as give workshops and courses. More information on their webpages.

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Immediately across the street from the West Facade of the Cathedral is a 16C wooden 3 level house with exposed wood beams and carved support brackets at each level. It has its name because of the identification of the figures at the entry (in "modern" 16C dress). It houses a museum devoted to lace, an excellent local craft (fee). (We have never gone inside). To the left of the lower central figures is another female that I could not identify. The doorside Eve looks quite forlorn, but this one is happy (has she just been "wised-up" by the serpent?). The other carvings are saints or symbolic characters.

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The crypt was in use when the church was consecrated in 1077. Its short thick pillars and vaulting support the built-up choir that was added in 1230. The crypt columns have interesting figurative capitals, but other fine ones are exhibited here without details about their previous location or ages. The frescos are 15C additions making the ensemble more attractive. They are on the walls or on the spandrels.

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Being antagonistic to the way things were developing in England, Norman Catholics made the murder of Thomas a Becket a cause celebre. When it became time to build a South Transept (1280), its door was dedicated to him and the tympanum has a carving of the story (much worn). The Facade is Rayonnant Gothic. The niches of the transept have tombs and the walls bear some murals (15C)