Auxerre Things to Do

For the short time i had i went straight into the Tourist Office there where i was in the town centre, excited by all the timbered buildings with their carved corners and polychrome characters around me, for a map or idea of the sights.

I was given a 'Follow the Thread of History in Auxerre' walking/'pedestrian' map which explains that the city of Auxerre and the Auxerre region Tourist Information Centre have chosen to create a pedestrian route in Auxerre's historical town centre that is marked and accompanied by a brochure to help passing tourists discover the remarkable monuments, picturesque streets, unusual points of view or colourful neighbourhoods.

It is also points out that Auxerre residents can also benfit from the project to rediscover their city and look at what remains unseen or is no longer noticed!

The walk of course can start anywhere on your map - significant sites are shown on your map and information given. The recommended start by the Tourist Centre is outside its main office at the river where you will 'admire one of of France's most beautiful panoramas from the footbridge spanning the Yonne River'.

Hows that for a recommendation!!

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St Germain Abbey, up on the hill above St Nicolas Place and the Marine neighbourhood, has apparently held the remains since the 5th century of Saint Germain who died in Ravenna in 448.

Archeological work has only reached back to the 6th century construction but apparently the Carthingian crypts built between 841 and 859 are regarded as examples of some of Europe's most beautiful! - these are accessible by guided tour but unfortunately the place was closed when I was there!

The abbey church was reconstructed in the 11th century with the facade and Saint Jean tower completed in the 12th century. New monastic buildings were constructed at this time with the monks hall,( of the Benedictines order?), chapter house and sacristy which still exist, completed in the 13th century. The cloister, sleeping quarters and refectory were reconstructed in the 17th century.

The old conventual buildings now contain Auxerre's Museum of art and history with prehistoric, Gallo-Roman and medieval collections on display and temporary exhibitions held through the year.

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Adding character to the lovely place also are polychrome figures of notable personalities from around the town - particularly the ones made by local Auxerre artist Francois Brochet who has a display of works in the Auxerre Museum.

Notables such as the local writer Nicolas Restif de la Bretonne in 1806, where he began his professional career in the neighbourhood with the regions great printer Francois Fornier, whose statue sits together with his wife near the clock and bell tower.

And also one of France's famous 20 th century poetess Marie-Noel (1883-1967), who lived and worked in Auxerre. Her polychrome statue stands on the other side of the clock and bell tower outside the Town Hall/Hotel de Ville.

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The Tourist Information Centre 'Follow the Thread of History in Auxerre' walking map says that this place or square is one of the loveliest in the Marine area - its down near the river and where all the bargemen and assistances lived and worked.

The passenger barge landing stage was just near here in front of Saint Nicolas Place, and transported travellers and goods from here to Paris several times a week.
This apparently also often included the young Napoleon Bonaparte on his way from Brienne to Paris and again years later during his attempt to return from exile.

I thought this spot was particularly scenic and photogenic with lovely timbered houses and a water well with colorful flowers all below the also picturesque Saint German Abbey.

The large house in the mid of the photo is a beautiful residence characteristic of old time river warehouses with the lower half, or ground floor, in stone for the storehouse and timber frame for the apartment levels.

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The main tourist office is down here at the river and starts its walking tour here - here it recommends too to get the best panoramic vantage point of the town ie in their opinion to admire 'one of Frances most beautiful panoramas'! (and the town's not even mentioned in my travel bible, the Lonely Planet!)

But anyway where ever you start the walking tour if you're following the 'Follow the Thread of History in Auxerre' you will eventually arrive at the Marine neighbourhood where the bargemen and river workers lived and the river on which they worked!

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The sisters of the Visitation of St Mary (rather than the visitation of Jesus Christ?) established themselves in Auxerre in 1658 like many other 'counter reformation' congregations. Work on the chapel began in 1860 and lasted for 'several dozen years'.

The facade was not constructed until 1714 by the architect Guillaume Joyneau of Sens.

The chapels interior with its rare Burgundy dome is regarded as particularly remarkable. Now this building houses the Auxerre Museum and displays the work of local artist Francois Brochet, responsible for many of the polychrome figures and sculptures around Auxerre town centre.

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The Town Hall's Square - Place de l'Hotel de Ville - called this in every french town i visited? - is a lovely square surrounded with interesting timbered buildings.

You can see the 15th century clock and bell tower from here and theres Marie Noels statue along with some interesting hanging shop signs! Apart from the elegant looking Town Hall built in 1733 the square looks nicely medieval!

Being pretty much smack bang in the middle of the town centre from here are interesting streets taking you out in various directions - down Rue Fecauderie past the pretty covered passageway and past the cathedral to the river or in the direction of the Counts Palace behind the clock tower - but otherwise follow the walking tour devised by the Auxerre Tourist Information Centre marked with a triangle along the streets giving you loads of information of the recommended sights.

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In behind the Clock tower and the Town Hall is the square, which looks more like a big parking lot, is a building covered in medallions of local celebrities. This building was once a Count's palace and then Auxerre's bailwick and presidial seat were held here until the Revolution. It then became the law courts in the 19th century.

In 1869 the museum of Auxerre and the library were established here an the buildings facade was decorated with medallions by a local artist in homage to local celebrities.

In this square looking back to the clock tower is an interesting view behind the timbered buildings back in the square looking like a rabbit warren of small medieval buildings on top of and beside each other. Tucked down on the bottom in the corner is a WC!