The church contains several 15C polychromed statuary of Renaissance style in various locations. In particular see two versions of St. Roche (Rock) since this is a pilgrim church, one wears an appropriate hat. Both are accompanied by a dog and point to his classical plague lesion. There are also a Madonna and child and a praying female (Ste. Madeleine?). Above all do not miss a Pieta given by Mme. de Sevigne as a penance. In it she is portrayed as the Madonna by the sculptor. (We have read some of her letters but had never seen a portrait of her. Not bad looking at all).
The capitals inside the church date from the middle of the 12C at the height of Romanesque skill. It is revealing to see how far the workers had come from Vezelay of almost the same date. Also see the 5C sarcophagus of St.-Andoche which shows the level that sculpture had fallen to before the art was abandonned.
The Basilica in Saulieu (pop. 3.2), in the center of town, has withstood partial destruction by the English (1359) and defacement during the Revolution with uninspired restoration. Nevertheless it still has a tall Romanesque arched nave of three levels with aisles. The replaced choir harbors some fine 14C choir stalls, while there are many treasures worth stopping to see inside as well among them some of the best capitals.
2 Rue d'Argentine, (former Hotel de la Cote d'Or), Saulieu, 21210, France
Good for: Business
Square Alexandre Dumaine Bp 53, Saulieu, France, 2
Good for: Business
1, rue Grillot, , Saulieu, Bourgogne 21210
The Auberge du Relais is a Logis de France located beneath the very busy market square. If it's a Logis de France, you know the food is good. We've never been disappointed in one.
It's right on the main route through town so you would expect it to be noisy. It is not. You step inside to a very comfortable several rooms full of quiet people chatting easily over the soothing classical music. There is a copy of one of the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries on one wall, the walls are a soft coral and the linens perfection.
We had driven from Beaune and were too early to claim our gite. Therefore we had driven to Saulieu to purchase supplies for our week in the area and we were tired and hungry. This was the perfect place to relax and unwind . . . and a perfect start to our week in Burgundy.
Favorite Dish: Here is my journal entry for the day we were there:
"I got the beef, an excellent Charolais, and Ed got a ham stuffed with local mushrooms. He started with a tomato salad and I with a ham persillade and small salad. We both got the cassis sorbet with cassis for dessert. We will return!"
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The web link below is long so you can go to Logis de France and type Saulieu into the search window to get to the auberge / restaurant. http://www.logis-de-france.fr/uk/