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I was actually on my way to this village when I stumbled on Semur. Thus it was I only had ten minutes at Flavigny but, the day before I was due to leave Dijon, I had another shot at it and was able to spend a couple of hours wandering around.
A half day can be spent here but that would just about allow you to see everything.
The village, or abbey, is famous for its lollies and the shop does a steady trade. If you arrive on the right day you can actually see them made.
The rest of the village has an authentic air and you can read more details on my dedicated page.
Written Jun 1, 2012
This was one of the better things I did on my holiday in France.
The abbey is rightly famous as a tourist attraction though it doesn't attract hordes like other places. Having said that, you won't be alone in this lovely setting with its spacious garden.
Consecrated in 1147 by Pope Eugene III it was constructed on an east-west axis in Romanesque style.
It features a church (somewhat threadbare but interesting), the dormitory, Chapter Room, common room, Calefactory (warming room that features two fireplaces) and the Galerie Seguin all set around a cloister while the forge, dovecote, wayfarer's chapel and bakery, the infirmary and the gatehouse and hostel are all spread around the grounds in their own space.
It has world Heritage listing and I remember coming away feeling satisfied that I had visited, surprised at the size of the garden and church and loving the good state of the buildings themselves though a little disappointed at the lack of furnishings.
Definitely worth a look if you're visiting the area.
Written May 27, 2012
Inside the church there is much to see from mediaeval times.
According to tradition the church was built by Robert of France to expiate the murder of his father. The original construction thus dates back to the 11th century though it was rebuilt in the 13th and 14th century.
Written Apr 23, 2012
l'Eglise Notre-Dame is the main church of Semur-en-Auxois but it is showing its age.
The church, La Collégiale Notre-Dame, was started in 1225 and built in flamboyant Gothic style. It was restored in the 19th century by Viollet-le-Duc but signs of wear and tear can be clearly seen in the close up picture of the doorway. The north tympanum depicts the legend of St. Thomas.
Updated Apr 23, 2012
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You will pass former mills and tanneries and at the bottom of the valley by the Pont de Minimes, there is an authentic bistro Maison Dieu, Les Minimes.
Any of the walk by the river is never dull because it does a complete U-turn around the Granite outcrop so that every ten metres there's a different viewpoint.
Written Apr 23, 2012
Porte Guillier is the most famous entry portal to Semur-en-Auxois. Above it (on the other side from where the opening pic was taken) is the inscription "The people of Semur take great pleasure in meeting strangers". (see second pic) Of course, that's not the actual inscription because it's in French but it was erected in 1552 and still rings true today.
Semur-en-Auxois' status as one of the most picturesque towns in Burgundy remains uncontested. The majority of its medieval centre-ville (town center) remains as is after hundreds of years of use and activity: Semur is simultaneously a site rich in history and a thriving modern town.
Updated Apr 20, 2012
Go over the Pont Joly, past the Tour de l’Orle-d’Or with its seemingly vulnerable fractured side, and up the cobbled street into town. Wander through the Porte Guillier, a medieval gateway, and enjoy the street cafes and shops along the pedestrian street.
You should be warned that many of the roads inside the old town are cobbled as stated and thus present an uneven surface for walking but a joy to behold.
Written Apr 18, 2012
The Pont Joly is one of a few bridges that you can cross to enter the town. The spectacular backdrop behind it makes it the most unforgettable way to arrive. We chose to pull up immediately and investigate on foot.
If you're into photography I suggest you do the same as there are a multitude on angles that will stir your imagination.
Updated Apr 18, 2012
The early part of the 15C saw the beginning of the modern art of sculpture. In Burgundy it had one of the most powerful exponents in Claus Sluter. He did not work alone, but had many assistants to help him prepare the stone with which he worked. Many of them as they became more skillful could be employed elsewhere. Some came to him with skills acquired elsewhere and became Masters. We will encounter his work when we reach Dijon and environs. In the church are two polychrome works of merit of this period: a Virgin and Child and an Entombment. The Virgin is at the head of the Choir and the Entombment is in a North Chapel (second from the door).
Written Aug 28, 2008
Although the nave is very tall and narrow, the most interesting part of the interior is the early 13C Gothic choir and transepts. which were built first. The triforium is tall and actually is a blind gallery. The arches above the capital below are raised and the clerestory windows are quite long (hence the impressive tallness in an otherwise modest church). There is also a simple strong crossing which bears a tower with a very tall spire. The area above the capitals of the triforium in the transepts each bears a sculpted modern styled human head. This conceit runs into the choir but stops before the absidial curve. No attempt was made to insert a Rose or a panel window at the ends of the transepts.
Written Aug 28, 2008
Reviews and photos of Semur-en-Auxios attractions posted by real travelers and locals. The best tips for Semur-en-Auxios sightseeing.
Although the nave is very tall and narrow, the most interesting part of the interior is the early 13C Gothic choir and transepts. which were built first. The...
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1
Semur-en-Auxois - this marvellously preserved and lively town has kept the appearance of a "country" capital. The town stands inside its walls which dominate the clear waters of the Armacon, just...
2
Semur-en-Auxois was on my list of places to see, yet I chanced upon it en route to Flavigny. The spectacular first view of the towers will never leave my mind. It's worth going to see those alone yet...
3
Semur is a delight as an old living town (pop. 5.3K). It is perched on a defensive rocky promontory with a river below and some of its defensive structures up in the town. There are interesting sights...
4
Semur-en-Auxois . . . despite VT's spelling 8^)
Semur is on a hill with a castle overlooking the Armançon River. You can park outside the Old Town and walk through the city gate and just wander the old part of the town. Views from the ramparts are...
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