Favorite thing: The Benedictine Abbey of Vezelay was founded in 878. As part of the complex a Carolingian church was built. Early in the 11C relics of the saint were “recovered” from near Aix-en-Provence. Their installation caused a flood of pilgrimages to them. As part of their move to exploit the pilgrimages, the Cluniacs took control of the Abbey. They quickly built a new church (1096-1104) to accommodate the pilgrims. After a fire and collapse of the nave, it was rebuilt starting in 1120 at which time the capitals and 3 tympani were created (finished 1130) with the Pentecostal message of the church beaming out. The influx of pilgrims lead to the building of a Narthex, finished in 1146, in which year St. Bernard appropriately preached the Second Crusade from its steps. (two years later when he founded the Cistercians he renounced the decoration of churches, shocked by the excesses at Vezelay). From this spot the groups of pilgrims formed to go to Compostela by one of the 4 routes the Cluniacs established for their safety and religious entertainment. A century later the pilgrimage craze and the power of Cluny were waning and St. Francis of Assisi took over the Abbey . Worse, in 1280 remains of the Saint were found anew near Aix and the Pope certified them and declared those at Vezelay to be fake. A steady decline and neglect ensued and after the Revolution it was desanctified and partly damaged. Deterioration and some demolition followed until Prosper Merimee recognized its beauty and empowered Viollet-le-Duc to restore it . The process took 21 years! (1840-61). There are 4 tympani and 118 capitals in situ (94 in the nave). (See our other Tips and a Travelog on these). In this tip we have pictured 3. The first is the most famous appearing in many publications. It is called the “Mystical Mill” and show on our left a bearded prophet (maybe Moses) pouring the Old Testament Law into the Mill. Receiving the refined Law (New Testament) on the right is Paul (partly bald). (Versions of this depiction are very rare). Next on one capital are 3 scenes of David and Goliath. First he stunned by the slingshot, next he is decapitated and finally David leaves with loot. The last features a flaming-haired devil who appears in many capitals, many in which the meanings are lost, as in this one. What is going on? (add a comment if you think you know ).
Fondest memory: The survival and restoration of the Basilica.
Updated Dec 6, 2008
Favorite thing: This is the main attraction of Vezelay. They were created between 1120-40, less than 50 years after the revival of similar sculpting in Moissac and Toulouse (see our Tips). Thses were the second generation of artists and they have increased mastery of their craft. The figures are not stiff and there is action and insight. It is thought that there were as many as 5 masters and assistants; one may have even been Gislebertus of Autun. There was continuing work at Cluny as well, since that Order was the sponsor of this work. The Cluniacs believed strongly in the enhancing power of art in religious indoctrination. Vezelay was the staging point for one of the sets of pilgrimages (tourists; tour groups) and the opportunity for education besides the display of relics were the justification for such a large and lavish structure. Things related to Jesus are displayed on the tympani and surrounds of the church and narthex on the West. The capitals display Old Testament, Saints lives and symbolic (some meanings are unknown) decoration. There are more than 70 of them.
Fondest memory: These creations of man are of greater impact than the splendid vistas outside or the majesty of the long aisles of the church.
Written Dec 1, 2008
Favorite thing: This village (17 km from Avallon) is famous by two bridges (les deux ponts): big one (Grand Pont, finished in 1874, appr.25 m higher than the small one) and small one (old pedestrian arch bridge completed in 1770) and allows to admire the view of Cure river and rocks.
Updated Apr 3, 2005
Favorite thing: Facing the hill of Vézelay, the feudal château of Bazoches, built in the 12th C., has four towers and a keep around an interior courtyard.
Acquired in 1675 by Marshall Vauban, thanks to a bonus from King Louis XIV, Vauban carried out restoration work and transformed the castle into a military garnison.
The castle is still fully furnished and opened for the visitors.
Updated Apr 3, 2005
Favorite thing: "Le Dent Creuse" is one of the most famous restaurants in Vezelay. You can try all the specialities of Burgundy in this restaurant.
http://www.vezelaytour.net/dentcreuse/Anglais/framemenuanglais.html
Updated Apr 3, 2005
Favorite thing: Behind the church of Sainte Madelaine there is a big area where everyone can enjoy the view of nearby villages, forests. It's my favourite place in Vezelay.
On the picture there is a view of Saint Père village. This place is also worth to be visited. The diversity of its landscapes, the wealth of its history certified by monuments, famous vineyards.
Fondest memory: You have to see in St.Pere:
* L'église Notre Dame. This is a true jewel of Burgundian gothic art.
* Les Fontaines Salées. Important archeological site of Gallo-Roman epoch.
* L'Esperance. Famous restaurant and hotel of chef Marc Meneau. It's a legend and "arguably the best dining experience in Burgundy". Marc and Francoise Meneau have welcomed The Queen Mother, the Nixons, Princess Caroline and Prince Ernst of Hanover, Presidents Giscard d'Estaing, Mitterand and Chirac!
http://www.marc-meneau-esperance.com
* Cave Henry de Vézelay. Famous Burgundy wine.
http://www.henrydevezelay.com/
Updated Apr 3, 2005
Favorite thing: The large clear windows fill the church with an extraordinary luminosity gathering in intensity as it moves to the east - from the dimly-lit narthex to the nave with its twin-coloured flying buttresses and then the gloriously illuminated choir, rebuilt in the Gothic style shortly after 1200. The clarity of light shows off to advantage the basilica’s extraordinary legacy of sculptures.
Updated Mar 18, 2005
Favorite thing: On a pilgrims day in 1120, a fire begins and more than a thousand people are buried in the ashes. In 1146 Saint Bernard preaches the secon Crusade before king Charles VII
In 1150 the rebulding is accomplished but without the narthex. The French revolution destroys much of the buldings, but is restored by Viollet the Duke in 1840 to 1856.
The rebuilt church is what we see today, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture and part of UNESCO World Heritage.
Updated Mar 18, 2005
Favorite thing: During the batttle between the King of France and Girart duke of Burgundy near Saint Père, the story says that flames came out of the sky and the earth trembled. Even the most brave soilders were afraid. The wrriors layed down weapons and prayed. So it is that the land became sacred and the long history of Vezelay began.
A convent was built under the orders of Girart, but was destroyed by the Normans, it was replaced by a monastary and consecrated by the Pope in 878. Two hundred years later the monks of Cluny arrived and build a church, where the relics of Saint Mary Madelaine are deposed.
Updated Mar 18, 2005
Favorite thing: I've got used to come to Vezelay when I was living in France. My house was just about 10 km from Vezelay.
The village was a place for respite, for new ideas, for calm and mental conversation with close friends. There's something magical in this place. During the winter Vezelay is totally dead, but on summer many tourists make this village alive. Anyway I was feeling myself great any season.
Updated Mar 18, 2005
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Reviews and photos of Vézelay attractions posted by real travelers and locals. The best tips for Vézelay sightseeing.

I've got used to come to Vezelay when I was living in France. My house was just about 10 km from Vezelay. The village was a place for respite, for new ideas,...
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The irresistable pull of Vezelay

Driving back from a holiday deep in the Bourgogne, right through the mighty forests of the Morvan and one hits upon a town, marked in the Michelin guide with 3 stars as being very interesting to...
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About 10 years ago famous Russian cellist and conductor Mstislav Rostropovich played Bach's suites for unaccompanied cello in the church of Madeleine at Vezelay. "I had always thought that if I...
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The first view of Vezelay at the top of a hill in Burgundy is heart-stopping. Each time we go, we find this spot and stop and delight in the view. It is beautiful any time of year. There is parking...
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RICHARD the LION HEART was HERE

The main street of this little town winds up the hill past artists' studios, galleries and shops before it reaches the BASILICA. It is called one of the all-time glories of Romanesque design, "the...
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VEZELAY We poped into the small old town of Vezalay on our way from Dijon to Tours, and it was worth it!!! The Church of St. Madeline could be seen from far away over Morvan Hills. It is former...
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