CatherineReichardt Says: St Anne was the mother of the Virgin Mary, so the fact that she's the patron saint of women in various roles (women in labour, housewives, grandmothers and unmarried women) isn't very surprising, although her link to cabinet makers and horser riders would seem a little more...
The somewhat baffling Scala Sancta staircase
CatherineReichardt Says: This ornate set of steps stand at the opposite end of a huge lawn from the Basilica and have no visible signage. They have no obvious purpose since they lead from nowhere to nowhere over an unthreatening section of gravel, and had me bamboozled for a good while until I did...
Pause for a moment at the exquisite war memorial
CatherineReichardt Says: One million Bretons answered the call up during World War I, but a horrifying 25% never returned, about double the rate of casualties suffered by other French troops. The 250,000 Bretons died equates to one in fourteen of Brittany's entire population, leading to a whole slew...
The staggeringly massive Basilica of St Anne
CatherineReichardt Says: Before we visited Brittany, I'd not heard anything about Sainte-Anne d'Auray, and it was only a short but intriguing comment in our guidebook that persuaded us to take a detour through the town on the way back from Carnac.As soon as we turned into town, the huge tower of the...
Commemorating the dead in all wars
CatherineReichardt Says: The appalling Breton casualties in World War I are commemorated in the exquisitely moving Breton war memorial and the surrounding wall of remembrance.Sadly, humanity displays a depressing inability to learn the lessons of the past, and memorial to commemorate the "The War to...
A war memorial that's unashamedly Breton
CatherineReichardt Says: The one impression that you'll probably come away with from visiting the war memorial in Sainte-Anne d'Auray is that it commemorate Breton - rather than French - war casualties.Despite attempts to achieve national homogenisation of identity under a French banner, the Breton...
As you might expect from a town that's a magnet for pilgrims, there are a number of shops specialising in a bewildering range of religious paraphernalia. Rosaries, crucifixes, devotional books, CDs of religious music - if it's got even the most tenuous link to Catholicism, chances are that it's on sale here.
Unsurprisingly the best selling lines of merchandise relate to St Anne and to Pope John Paul II - a man who is himself hurtling towards canonisation at breakneck speed - who made a pilgrimage here during his papacy.
Updated Jul 23, 2012
Compared to other more 'first division' tourist attractions in this region, Sainte-Anne d'Auray is a bit off the beaten track, especially for visitors from outside Brittany. The happy outcome of its relative obscurity for all but non-Bretons and those with a particular devotion to St Anne is that it isn't besieged by hoardes of visitors, except for a couple of notable festivals during the year.
The majority of the 600,000 pilgrims that visit St Anne d'Auray visit on her feast day, 26 July. There are also major celebrations here on Pentecost, which falls 50 days after Easter (a Sunday some time in May - check the exact date on which this will fall in the year that you're planning to visit).
I hate crowds, so I would probably go out of my way to avoid visiting on the day of St Anne's 'Grand Pardon'. However, if you'd like to experience a truly Breton religious ceremony honouring their patron saint, then this could be ideal for you: just bear in mind that the village will be packed out, so accommodation and parking will be at an absolute premium and other tourist amenities such as restaurants will likely be packed out.
Updated Jul 23, 2012
Favorite thing: on the nice city, in a pleasant place, you will visit
basilique
monument for bretains soldiers of the 2nd WW
pilgrins place
some shops around; museums
Written Apr 4, 2003
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