Reims Off The Beaten Path

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The room where the Germans first surrendered to Allied forces has not been changed since that time. The room is in the back of a Lycee, and yes students still attend. However through the back door and up the stairs is a small and moving museum. The story of the surrender, the fight over who should be there, the consequences, the other surrenders. It is an amazing story to the end of so much pride, and honor, valour and vainglory, effort on both sides to preserve and defend. A visit to the museum is a must for any history buff. It was the only reason we visited Reims. I would have liked to see the Cathedral- the obvious must see for the city. However we had friends waiting for us another two hour drive away and we couldn't dally. The museum was easy to find and get to. The docents were eager to share the story and their part in the history. We spent over an hour enjoying the very interesting artifacts, pictures and information. (best websites are in French, however the museum had English info)

If you are overwhemed by historical buildings, have a stroll around the center town. While there are not so many old houses left (WWI destroyed 80% of the city) - there are still some medieval and renaissance ones standing.
The photo has bee taken along place du forum

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Don't miss this small gem hidden in a non descript commercial street (on your way from the railway station to the cathedral).

The Saint-Jacques church is the oldest is Reims and dates back to the 12th century (built in 1183 - to compare : the cathedral's building began only in 1211) when it was built as the seamstresses church.

It is a mix af roman and gothic style, while the original lower level remains, some parts were rebuilt during the Renaissance and the bell tower is from 1711 but the general medieval character remains.
Saint Jacques presents also very modern stainglasses by Joseph Sima and Helene Vieira da Silva (around 1970).

The atmosphere inside is delighfully peacefull, far from the busstle in the cathedral or even from the animated street.

Address : rue Max Dormoy

Epernay is the center of champagne cultivation !
On the left bank of the Marne, Epernay rivals Reims as a center for champagne. Although it only has one-sixth of Reims's population, Epernay produces nearly as much champagne as its larger sibling. It boasts an estimated 322km (200 miles) or more of cellars and tunnels. These caves are vast vaults cut into the chalk rock on which the town is built. Represented in Epernay are such champagne companies as Moët et Chandon (the largest), Pol Roger, Mercier, and de Castellane.
If you can't get enough - follow the guide :
Maison de Pommery The cellars are underneath the Gothic style house and gardens of 'House of Pommery'. Tours are available, but reservations are recommended. Open daily from 10-6. Closed Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday in winter months.

Mumm-Mumm has been making champagne since 1827. The cellars offer a video about the manufacturing process and tours of the miles of cellars housing more the 25 million bottles of champagne. Open daily from 9-11 and 2-5, except winter months when it is closed on weekend mornings.

Piper-Heidsieck This is one of the oldest champagne houses in the world, dating to 1785. Tours of the cellars are available via electric powered cars with prerecorded audio commentary available in 7 languages. Open from 9-12 and 2-5, closed Tuesday and Wednesday in the winter.

Taittinger - This is considered one of the best French champagnes, and one of the few cellars that is still family owned. There are one hour long tours through the ancient Roman cellars which date to the 4th Century. The tours not only provide information about the champagne making process, but also about Reims' history and the Taittinger family. Open daily from 9:30-12 and 2-4:30. Closed weekends in the winter.

Veuve Cliquot-Ponsardin - Tours last an hour and a half taking you through some of the 16 miles of cellars at this champagne house dating to the mid 19th century. Visits by reservation only.

Basilica de Saint- Remi - another highlight in Reims !
Reims is an ancient Roman city and the birthplace of the French nation – it contains one of the most impressive Gothic cathedrals in France, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims, where dynasties of French monarchs were crowned starting with Clovis, first king of the Franks. The neighbouring Basilique St-Rémi is even older and, half Gothic, half Romanesque in style, includes the old royal abbey which is now a museum documenting the history of the town

This is the oldest church in Reims, and dates back to 1007. The basilica is a great example of classic medieval French masonry. The abbey is now a museum and has a large collection of the history of Reims; regional archaeology; and military history. The basilica is open Sunday to Wednesday from 08h00 - 19h00 and Thursday to Saturday from 09h00 - 19h00. Admission is free for the basilica; and $1.80 for adults; free for children under 12, for the museum of St-Remi.

In the area around Reims there are many of such cemetaries commemmorating the soldiers that died during the First World War.
I always find those places very impressive.

I wrote the following poem based on “In Flanders Fields” by John Mc Crae and “Futility” by Wilfred Owen:

In English towns

In English towns, church bells ring
Because of Armistice, the people sing
to celebrate the end of war.
There’s a soldier at the Owens’ door
About their son he has news to bring

Only seven days ago this morning
He was killed by German firing
Such grief was never felt before
In English towns

He was on the continent teaching
Enraged by watching the young boys suffering
Became an officer and joined the war.
Of Futility - he shall write no more
He shall not sing, though church bells ring
In English towns

Jiske Erlings - March 2004

A proof that a college can be a sightseeing item - one needs it after pretty faceless Russian schools, colleges, and universities - architecturally, I mean. The whole set of 17th buildings, library, and a wood-panelled refectory date as far back as the 17th century. You can also see several artworks by Jean Hýliart - all (if I am not grossly mistaken) depicting the life of the Jesuitsý ýall-time starsý like Saint Franýois-Xavier and Ignatius of Loyola. Thereýs also a tiny museum with furniture exhibits pertaining to the Reims region.

To see both the museum and historical sections of the buildings youýd better visit in the afternoon, because (as I recollect) the museumýs shut in the morning.