Walking through the cluster of cobblestone, pedestrians-only streets in the heart of the old quarter is by no doubt the main attraction of Troyes.In 1524 a disastrous fire destroyed much of the town. The half-timbered houses that were rebuilt give the town a medieval look. Troyes has the most half-timbered houses of any town in France! Many have...more
Saint Pantaleon (16 - 18th C.) is the parish of the Polish community of Troyes. Pantaleon is venerated in Eastern Europe as a great martyr (during the Diocletian persecution 305) and wonderworker. In the Middle Ages he came to be regarded as the patron saint of physicians.This church is a real museum of the 16th century Troyes statuary, because it...more
The former Bishop's Palace (16th, 17th and 19th C.) opposite the cathedral, now houses the Museum of Modern Art. The nucleus of the museum is the Levy Collection of art between 1850 and 1950. The museum shows mainly fauvism and expressionism with works by Courbet, Bonnard, Cézanne, Derain, Degas, De Staël, Dufy, Gauguin, Matisse, Modigliani,...more
The construction of the present cathedral began around 1200 to end in the middle of the 16th century. It is a jewel of the Gothic style. Remarkable are the doors on the west facade and the north transept with its richly decorated doorway, the "Beau Portail", and its 15th century rose window are particularly fine examples of Gothic sculpture. The...more
The Museum of Modern Art is at the south aspect of the Cathedral on the flank of the Place St.-Pierre. It is in the former Bishop's Palace at the end of a large park which contains several modern sculptures, both full figures and heads. The reconstructed interior now houses over 2.000 works and has much room for ancillary museum activity. The...more
Since the collection ends near 1950, the paintings are still works that are related to realism, even though the various artists may focus on lt from limited view points. There are works by such as Modigliani or those from the Fauve movement like de Vlaminck and several by Soutine.more
The Modern Art Museum in Troyes starts with examples of the early types of painting that would pass be called Impressionism as it spreads out its collection. Thus, the earliest examples include painters who are on early edge of the period like Degas and Courbet. At the end of the period, still in the 19C, we come to painters like Seurat, Gaugin and...more
The Beaux Arts Museum is northwest of the cathedral. Ie contains some archeological pieces of modest interest, but it is heavily represented by 17 and 18C pieces, some of whom at some time lived in Troyes. Do not confuse it with the Musee d'Art Moderne, which is the major sight in town.more
The church of St. Jean is just south of the Hotel de Ville. It was built in the 14C and refinished in the 16C and was where Henri V and Catherine de France were married in 1420. The most attractive part of the church are the altar by Girardon and the paintings behind and above the altar which were by Pierre Mignard, the lower one a fine Baptism of...more
Inside the church there are extensive sets of stained windows from the 13C. They depict scenes starting with the Annunciation and extending beyond the early life of Jesus. In a chapel to the right of the choir standing upon a base is a beautiful statue called the Virgin of the Grapes. In the back of the nave stands an excellent Baptismal font.more
Saint Urbain IV was born in Troyes, son of a shop keeper, and celebrated his home town with a fine church started in 1262 and finished in 1686. The church was built on the site of the family store. It is of two levels and extends almost onto the vault with a simple altar whose top also extends to the vaults. The present five gabled facade was...more
Although the Cathedral of St.-Pierre et St.-Paul has many stained glass windows from the 13C and each period of the next centuries, the most impressive window was created in the 17C by Linard Gontier in 1625. Note that at this time the pictures in each section are painted upon the glass and not embedded into the matrix. What is shown is called the...more
The inside of the church is light in structure and has great clarity. Although it is not high (29.5 m), it is of large size, 114m long and 51m wide. It has a flat false triforium with tall windows above and tall aisles. The church is filled with stained glass of every age from Gothic onward. The Rose Window in the west end is almost covered on the...more
The Cathedral of St-Pierre-et-St. Paul was started in 1208 but was built on soggy ground which caused difficulties in building. Thus it progressed slowly with many reconstructions and modifications into the 17C. After the Revolution essentially all of the outside sculpture was destroyed but some stone decoration and gargoyles remain above the west...more
This "cat street" is so named because the roofs of the houses on opposite sides are so close that a cat could jump from one side to the other. This narrow medieval street seems like an alley, or one of the closes in Edinburgh. It also reminded me of the Shambles in York. This local curiousity conveys an idea of how crowded towns were in the Middle...more
This town has several impressive parish churches. Each one has its own history and special features.Saint Urbain was founded by Saint Pantaleon, who was born here in 1185. When he was elected Pope in 1261, he took the name Urban IV, so his church changed its name to St Urbain. This is Troyes' finest Gothic church.Saint Pantaleon dates from the 16th...more
This museum has two sections, the Musée de l'Art Troyen and the Musée de la Bonneterie. The first concerns the art of Troyes, mainly from the 16th century. The second is about hosiery and knitwear made here. Like La Maison de L'Outil, it gives one a glimpse of the past, and an appreciation of the people who lived here centuries ago.more
Do you ever wonder how people actually lived in the Middle Ages? Most were either farmers, laborers, or craftsmen (such as blacksmiths, carpenters, coopers, wheelwrights, etc). This museum has examples of the tools that they used in their work. This is a museum dedicated to the common people, to the "Joe the Plumber" of old Europe. It's not about...more
Des 10 églises de la ville de Troyes celle-ci se remarque par ses statues polychromes. Les sujets de cette statuaire sont étonnants car ils n'appartiennent pas à la statuaire religieuse habituelle de nos églises européennes. Etonnant dans une église cette scène d'un atelier d'artisan (savetier?) (photo 1). Encore plus étonnant ces deux personnages...more
La construction de la cathédrale actuelle débuta aux environs de 1200 pour s'achever au milieu du XVIe siècle. Elle constitue un joyau du style gothique. Remarquables sont les portails de la façade occidentale et du bras nord, le " Beau portail ", qui constituent des chefs-d'œuvre de la sculpture gothique; la façade occidentale flamboyante a été...more
Good for: Families
11 rue des bas Trevois, Troyes, Champagne-Ardenne, 10000, France
Good for: Solo
35 Rue Emile Zola, Troyes, Champagne-Ardenne, FR-10000, France
Good for: Business
Good grilled meat in a nice typical house of Troyes at the corner of the rue Champeaux and rue Paillot.
Bonnes grillades dans une belle maison à colombages au coin de la rue Champeaux et de la petite rue Paillot où se trouve l'entrée de l'hôtel Le Relais St Jean.
While Troyes does not have any champagne cellars to visit, like the more northern towns of Reims and Épernay, there are a number of specialized champagne shops in Troyes where one can buy less known Champagne brands.
Indeed if one can find the great commercial names of Champagne in the supermarkets all over the world, in the Champagne region one will find brands or houses which are not exported and will bring to the amateur new nuances and flavours.
Ratafia de Champagne is a liqueur wine served as aperitif. Try it!
The central market "Les Halles" is worthwhile a visit in the morning.
We found here exceptional good bread in the form of a 2 kg cylinder. After 5 days at home, this bread was still "fresh" and tasteful.
Also excellent cheeses. The 2 main cheeses in the region are Chaource and Langres. Chaource is a rich, high fat, soft white cheese with a white rind and a mild flavour. Langres is a strong smelling cheese with a sticky, damp orange rind that is washed in champagne.
You will of course find the classical "andouillette" de Troyes
It is made up exclusively of chaudins (large intestines) and stomachs of pig, rigorously selected and cut out in thin straps in the direction length. The seasoning based on fresh onions, salt and pepper, precedes the setting forms in a "dress" of natural bowels. The slow 5 hours cooking in a "court-bouillon" completes to give the Andouillette de Troyes its undeniable gustatory qualities. Choose the A.A.A.A.A. "Association Amicale des Amateurs d'Andouillettes Authentiques" and you will only have to level you!
What to buy: Champagne, ratafia de champagne, Chaource and Langres cheeses.
Excellent bread at a boulangerie inside the Halles.
Altough Troyes does not have any champagne cellars to visit, like the more northern towns of Reims and Épernay, the centre of the town has the form of a champagne cork.
The evolution of the outlines of the city formed by the derivations of the river Seine and the fortifications replaced by boulevards gave the typical form of a champagne cork.
A votre santé!