We stayed for two nights at the only hotel open in Calacuccia, the one that doubles up as a petrol station !!!! The hotel L'Acqua viva was ok if a little expensive ( well when the bill actually came they did knock quite a bit off and this really pleased us !!! ) In the evening when we went out to eat we discovered tht ALL the restaurants in Calacuccia were closed for the season so we went back to the hotel to see if they could fix us up with something ( their kitchen was also closed for the season !! ) and they very kindly gave us a lift into the next village --- ALBERTACCE and dropped us off at the " Restaurant " Paglia Orba " from the outside it all looked closed but at the far end of the restaurant this " mad " woman was dashing around " Feeding " about six other people !!! as our French is very poor and there wasn't a menu and we were Very Hungry we just indicated for her to bring us whatever she was serving !!!
Wild boar cheese and olives ( the wild boar was like a thick cut palma ham )
A thick soup of noodles and meat with vegetables.
six pork fillet steaks with spaghetti
Local cheese to make your eyes water !!!! and a huge stack of it !!!!
coffee to follow
All this was washed down with two carafes of the local wine and the food was truly excellent
the bill came to e42 so not the cheapest meal of the trip but excellent food and a Brilliant atmosphere
We were so stuffed that we decided to walk the 3k back to our hotel, a good decision !!!!
Favorite Dish: Wild Boar
The fishing fleet of small boats is being modernised, but it maintains the old traditions. For the large part it is day fishing [or at least out and back within 24 hours]. Distribution is not highly organised and most of the catch is sold on the quayside, bought directly by restaurants or sold in a few daily markets or itinerant fishmongers.
Favorite Dish: Grilled fish with garlic.
Locally made cheeses are from sheep or goat milk. Most cheese is made by the shepherds themselves. There are few semi-industrial producers. Thus cheeses are known by the maker's name. Nowadays many cheeses are consumed fresh, but they were normally matured. They can vary from very mild to some of such strength that they have to be contained in glass containers to prevent them walking away. Over recent years there has been the introduction of a Corsican 'tome', but this is not a traditional cheese.
Even the big co-operative cellars produce excellent quality wines. In 2000 there were 2 900 hectares of vines in Corsica vs 11660 in 1970. There are 350 vignerons in Corsica and more than a third are dedicated to the top end of the market. In 2001, 56% of the wine produced was of the quality 'Vins du pays' and 28% was AOC. This means that only 16% was 'Vins de table' and that proportion continues to drop each year. Most of the vins du pays are produced by the big vinyards of the east coast.
Corsican gastronomy is rich and varied, not that you might think so, if you looked through a French pair of spectacles. Many of the food products, as elsewhere, were seasonal and added to the richness and variety of the diet. Many people stick to the habit of eating things in season, even though modern production methods can enable year-round production of almost anything.
Corsican proverb:'à chì beie sempre finisce cù e ranochje in corpu'.
(He who drinks only water ends up with frogs in his belly).
Favorite Dish: This 'Acquavita' is produced by wine makers from either wine or marc. It is frequently flavoured. My favourite is the one made by macerating a sprig of myrtle berries in it.
L'Oriente Sandwich Bar
This is one of the closest things you'll find to a fast food takeaway in Corte. It offers burgers and chips, chicken nuggets, fish and various sandwiches. Prices start at 10francs for a small box of chips.
Favorite Dish: Everything here is nice but one of my favourites is the Omelette Sandwich. This was a big baguette filled with a cheese and ham omelette and chips. You can choose to have this without the ham if you want so this was a very popular choice with the vegetarians.
This was my favourite restaurant in Corte. It's delicious and reasonably priced with friendly staff. I ate there twice and it was lovely.
Favorite Dish: This restaurant offers a wide choice of food as well as several set menus. I always had the 'Menu touristique' which was a 3 course meal with several options for a total of 75 francs. The food I ate there was the nicest I'd eaten in Corsica. It was great quality and absolutely delicious!
Restaurant Service Non-Stop
When eating out, this was one of the most common places for me as it was probably the cheapest. It's a nice but basic little restaurant where most main courses are 25francs (£2.50). There's a wide variety of meals on offer such as Pasta, omelettes, Burgers, salads. It's a nice place with a friendly atmosphere.
Favorite Dish: Carbonara Basillic with a pichet (1/2 Litre) of Red wine. Total cost= 37francs or £3.70
Food in Corsica tends to be more Italian than French. That was great for me. I'm not very adventurous and don't have the desire to eat frogs legs and snails. I didn't even have the chance in Corsica anyway and was delighted to try different pasta dishes and pizzas. Along the coast, there are lots of seafood restaurants but inland, pork, game and especially wild boar are more common. Most Corsicans don't seem to understand the concept of Vegetarianism. 3 of my English friends were vegetarians and had problems getting food in the university canteen as the staff didn't seem to have ever encountered anyone like this before. They couldn't understand why they wouldn't eat meat and then presented them with plates of vegetables thinking that that was all they'd eat. Fortunately in restaurants, where a choice of meals is available, there are many options not involving meat.
Top quality cuisine, lovely ambience, great view over the entire valley through the back wall that is entirely window, and an extremely ebullient host. Not cheap, though.
Fantastic views from every direction, lovely staff, pure relaxation in a beautiful settingmore
Route de San Martino, Pietranera, Corsica, 20200, France
Good for: Couples
Lieu dit Cavallo Morto, Chemin de Finocchio, Bonifacio, 20169, France
Good for: Families