Métro, RER, and Trains, Paris
After having worked in Paris, and living nearby for 8 years, I am amaze at the number of people coming from places where there is no subway.metro:tube and gladly jump in into the Paris metro and rave about it back home. Like it was a tourist attractions; well I like to tell you some historical stories of the Paris metro.
Paris has 14 metro lines so far, and it was not the first one to have one. It all started with the idea of hosting the Universal Expo of 1900, so to be ready work on the metro began in 1897. Tonite I will talk about line 11 of the Metro de Paris.
This line is totally underground, and is 6,2 kms long, being the shortest line. Also,none of its stations have change name since its beginning in 1935. It goes from Chatelet to Marie des Lilas. The station Telegraphe is cement reinforce of more than 20 meters deep, from 1944-45 it was under direct control of the Nazis. The line 11 was the first metro line in the world to have pneumatics material done so in 1956. Today it is schedule to be enlarge towards the East, work to begun in 2013 and continue to 2019.
I start my trip at Place des F¨ºtes, opened in 1911, in honor of the festivities of the village of Belleville, . Here you have the wonderful Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, done in 1867, wished for by Napoleon III, and in it great gymsun stone that was even shipped tot he United States. This is why the area is call the district of the Americas.main entrance at 1 rue Botzaris. At the angle of rue Compans, and rue Augustin Thierry, an overlook site dates from 1583! one of the vestiges of numerous aqueducts that drained the waters of Belleville since the 12C, walking along rue de Mouzia, you see wonderful flowery homes popular of homes from the 1840¡äs. The best here for a drink and meal is the Le Voyageur, 138 ave Parmentier, and the Rosa Bonheur,2 all¨¦e de la Cascade, you danse and drink at the place of a popular painter from the second half of the 19C.
And of course ,here passes Chatelet les Halles, with a huge transport hub on RER A,B ,and D, and the metro station lines of Chatelet metro line 1, 4, 7, 11, and 14 ; les Halles metro line 4. Above ground you have buses lines No 21 29 38 47 58 67 69 70 72 74 75 76 81 85 96, and the specials N11 N12 N13 N14 N15 N16 N21 N22 N23 N24 N122 N144 N145.with the last 3 nocturnal bus lines.
We arrive at Porte de Lilas, Here inmortalised by songs of Gainsbourgn, and the scene of several movies such as the Fabuleux Destin d¡¯Am¨¦lie Poulain, Elle a fait un b¨¦b¨¦ tout seule, etc. You see the Cimintiere de Belleville, at 40 rue du Tel¨¦graphe, a cementary , the telegraphe optique was practice here from 1790-1798. You have the wonderful pool of Piscine Georges-Vallerey, 148 ave Gambetta, built for the occasion of the 1924 Olympic Games, where Johnny Weissmuller, the future Tarzan ,got the record in the 400 meters freestyle.At the Church of Notre Dame -des-Otages,81 rue Haxo, see the trace of the assassination of 52 national guards in 1871 at rue du Borrego.
Fondest memory: when necessary walking is better
after living near at Versailles and working in Paris, my station was Saint Lazare. Now , that I live farther from Paris, my entry station has become Montparnasse.
ironic, my old working office was base here at rue de départs in Montparnasse, knowing the station well as to bus and metro, now it has become point central on the TGV for me.
Montparnasse have several tips on it here, so just to give you the English site of the SNCF trains of France here
it is well connected to take you anywhere in Paris. You have in general these services from Place Raoul Dautry
Métro Montparnasse - Bienvenüe (lines 4,6,12 and 13)
Buses 91,92,94,95, 96, N01, N02, N12 and N13
bike, vélo Station Vélib n° 15002
and the Air France bus line 4
En savoir plus sur http://www.evous.fr/Bus-95-Gare-Montparnasse,211259.html#HEurqt9xEfELpqab.99
Fondest memory: taking my first TGV train ride out of it. Going to Brittany passing by Vannes, Rennes, Le Mans, and arriving at quai 3 Montparnasse. it was big feeling but easy to navigate.
I have missed trains here as arriving late on meetings and always finding the next train available for free;now i am a SNCF grand voyageur frequent traveler so on top of fast cars now i know a bit more of fast trains ::)
or taking the bus 95 from gare saint lazare to Montparnasse or the Air France line 4 bus from CDG to Montparnasse. A bus 95 that could be call a tourist bus, you see wonders of Paris here.
La Defense is known for a business area but it has an excellent commercial mall center les quatre vents with many exciting stores and cinema. There are plenty of restos in the Esplanade and parvis de la Defense. From the airport they have one train the RER B ,will have the best option without changes to Chatelet ,(need to read signs as it is a big transport hub there,follow line 1 of metro or RER A any direction passes by La Defense.
to avoid Chatelet, which I always advice visitors to do ,need to change metro lines RER B to gare du nord, then metro line 2 to Charles de Gaulle-etoile and there take line 1 to la Defense Esplanade. a bit longer but less crowds. I used to worked there.
then to my beloved Versailles (used to lived) from La Defense take line 1 to Porte Maillot,then RER C direction Versailles rive gauche station, 5-7 mins walking to castle. From Versailles to the Louvre, you take again the RER C at rive gauche to musée d'Orsay stop and cross the passarelle=bridge over to the louvre.
all if doubts is handy at www.ratp.fr paris transport site.
Berthillon ice is all over ile st louis shops, as well as the official store. try Amorino at place des vosges italian ice cream too. and my American friend Ann at Scoop's Cafe,voted in Paris as one of the best ice cream place by Le Figaro! milkshakes too.
City pass need to figure all the trips you want to do with the individual carnet of 10 tickets plus the extras for the airport trip,Versailles trip, and compare with the paris visite pass
the address at La Defense is tops, you wont have any problems guarantee. Indian food no experience but they are all over Paris. see the site I write reviews has all there www.cityvox.fr/paris
Fondest memory: walking and eating at outdoor terraces. Work in the city for almost 10 yrs while lliving in Versailles ::)
After having worked in Paris, and living nearby for 8 years, I am amaze at the number of people coming from places where there is no subway.metro:tube and gladly jump in into the Paris metroand rave about it back home. Like it was a tourist attractions; well I like to tell some historical stories of the Paris metro.I will try to write a bit on each line ,sort of like an historical anecdote rather than photos, maybe one if can find it. The story is the important thing here.
Paris has 14 metro lines so far, and it was not the first one to have one. It all started with the idea of hosting the Universal Expo of 1900, so to be ready work on the metro began in 1897. Tonite I will talk about line 14 of the Metro de Paris, the last of the line indeed. We have made quite a journey together, of course, not all the stops, just my favorites, but you get the idea, its grand, its Paris.
This is the most recent line in the Metro de Paris opened in October 1998. It bring together Saint Lazare at the train station to Olympiades. It replaces an older line 14 that linked the stations Invalides to Porte de Vanves and eliminated in 1976 while fusion with line 13. The current Line 14 has nothing in common with the old line. It is the only automatic line in the city, but SNCF is working on making line 1 the same this year.
We will start our journey at Gare de Lyon, one of the oldest station opened in July 1900. On October 1998 it was attached to the new line 14. Here you have the opulent Gare de Lyon, the third Parisien station with 83 million persons per year and linking the south east of France as well as Italy and Switzerland. The tour de Horloge or clock tower is 64 meters high, see it at Place Louis-Armand. You can see the Viaduc des Arts, at avenue Daumesnil, in 1853 a line was given to the old train company Paris-Strasbourg to do a line linking Bastille to Vincennes along the avenue Daumesnil, and the viaduc de la Bastille saw its day, the line was stop when the opening of the train line RER A.An arts center was though out there,and finally the promenade plantée is born linking the line from place de la Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes in 1994 with about 50 shops. This Promenade Plantée, its 4,5 kms long, across the 12émé arrondissement de Paris. Its start just behind the Opéra Bastille at the level of the viaduc des arts, take rue de Lyon until avenue Daumesnil then climb a few steps that takes you to the suspended garden, and takes you all the way to the jardin de Reuilly that is linked with a woodend passarelle bridge, take the lawn and join the allée Vivaldi that takes you to the commercial part, and continues in tunnels by the square Charles Péguy and the bois de Vincennes. This jardin de Reuilly, has a grand lawn encircle by nice trees and host the circus, take it by Rue Albinoni, rue Charenton, or avenue Daumesnil. Have a glass at the Brasserie La Tour, 193 rue Bercy or have a grand dinner or lunch at the magnificent Le Train Bleu ,1st floor (FR) inside the Gare de Lyon.
Move over to Cour Saint-Emilion, opened in 1998, and quickly see the cour Saint-Emilion, at the parc de Bercy or popular known as the Bercy Village. Great boutiques and restos there, good ambiance at night ,www.bercyvillage.com . the L’Edeilweiss de Bercy is great for a glass, 2 rue de Dijon, See the unique museum, musée des Arts forains, 53 avenue des Terroirs-de-France, objects collected by a family for over 35 years, all restored, considered the largest such museum in the world. We arrive at the Bibliothéque François Mitterrand, opened in 1998. In the stairs on the lobby of the metro-RER, you see the stair or escalier des signes and escalier des Nombres with carvings of letters of 19 alphabets evoking the diversity of languages and dialects of the world. See it at quai François-Mauriac. See the historical building of the Grands Moulins de Paris, 73 quai Panhard et Levassor, built at the WWI period until its closing in 1996, the bread of Paris.Now it houses the campus of the Université de Paris VII-Denis Diderot. You can see the new Paris art district here by Rue Louise-Weiss, free expos are always on tab, see more at http://louise13.fr Take a dip at the pool piscine Josephine Baker, 8 quai François-Mauriac, open in 2008 with 25 meters lane right on the river Seine! Have a glass at the boat Le Batofar, 11 quai François-Mauriac;and the soulful club Le Djoon,22 blvd Vincent Auriol with best DJ’s of Paris.
And we reach the end of our journey of the Paris metro at Olympiades, opened in 2007, on what we call the Chinatown of Paris, from place d’Italie take the avenue Choisy,and see the triangle of this street with avenue d’Ivry,and blvd Masséna. The Esplanade des Olympiades is the center to wait for the Chinese New Year in Paris. See culture and history at the Temple des Teochew, behind the tour Auvers, and shop at the Tang Fréres, 48 avenue d’Ivry, the temple of asiatic goodies in Paris. you can have a nice dinner at the Chinatown Olympiades, 44 avenue d’Ivry, the mecca of Chinese restos on two floors,great. See more of the district and its inhabitants of the Orient here, http://www.tao-yin.com/arts_classiques_tao/XIIIe_promenade.htm
Fondest memory: when necessary walking is better
After having worked in Paris, and living nearby for 8 years, I am amaze at the number of people coming from places where there is no subway.metro:tube and gladly jump in into the Paris metroand rave about it back home. Like it was a tourist attractions; well I like to tell some historical stories of the Paris metro. I will try to write a bit on each line ,sort of like an historical anecdote rather than photos, maybe one if can find it. The story is the important thing here.
Paris has 14 metro lines so far, and it was not the first one to have one. It all started with the idea of hosting the Universal Expo of 1900, so to be ready work on the metro began in 1897. Tonite I will talk about line 13 of the Metro de Paris.
This line came about from the union of line B of the north south network company and the old line 14 of the CMP. It links the cities of the suburbs, and it is the longest line in the Paris metro with 22,5 kms of tracks. The year 2009 the traffic here was of 61OK passengers! Very saturated indeed.
We start our journey at Saint Denis-Porte de Paris, it link the town of Saint Denis with Paris; open in 1976. Here you have in a working class neighborhood, another wonder of France, the Basilique Saint Denis, the art gothic at its best it is a necropole of French royalty. It was here that in the 5C the tomb of Saint Denis was laid. The first king put here was Dagobert in 693AD! and was name the official resting place of all French kings in 1122AD after efforts by the abbey Suger. Very much damaged during the French revolution,it was Louis XVIII that gave it dimension by tranfering the remains of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette,and renovated by Napoleon I continue under Napoleon III. see it a 1 place de la Légion d’Honneur. You come into the main sport stadium in France, the Stade de France at Rue Francis de Pressensé; 81K spectators seated for sports and concerts as well.
We continue to Garibaldi, opened in 1952 after one of the founding fathers of the Italian nation. The access to the flea market of Paris at St Ouen where every weekend 150K persons walk by 2500 stands. The marché des puces see the wonderful markets within a market such as marché Vernaison, 99 rue des Rosiers or 136 ave Michelet, marché Antica next to it, the marché Malassis by 142 rue des Rosiers, Marché Dauphine by 132-140 rue des Rosiers, marché Biron by 85 rue des Rosiers or 118 rue Michelet ,Marché Serpette by 110 rue des Rosiers, Marche Paul Bert by 96 rue des Rosiers or 18 rue Paul Bert ,and Marché des Rosiers by 3 rue Paul Bert. YOu can have a drink at Le Louis XV, 94 avenue Gabriel Péri.
We stop by now at Guy Môquet, opened in 1911 under the name of Marcadet,then named Marcadet-Balagny, a year later, then after WWII on 1946 it change in honor of Guy Môquet a young French communist shot dead by the nazis in firing squad at the age of 17. You see here the Village des Epinettes, that you can access by rue Félix Pécaut at the north or rue Maria Deraismes to the east, rue Gallette to the south or rue Jean Leclaire to the west. It was part of the village of Batignoles annex to Paris in 1860, a very nice old Paris area to walk by. see the Cité des Fleurs, access by avenue de Clichy at the level of metro Brochant or by the rue de la Jonquiére. Created in 1847 is a village inside a village, here Catherine Deneuve and sister Françoise Dorléac were born in 1943. YOu come to see the cimetiére des Batignolles or cementary, at 8 rue Saint Just; done in 1833, here between 900 trees lies André Breton, Paul Verlaine, and Ray Ventura amongst others. You grab a glass at Le Christophe Colomb, 265 rue Marcadet, do your shopping at the Marché de l’avenue de Saint Ouen. and get a nice French meal at Le Refuge des Moines at 85 rue des Moines. www.baravinlerefugedesmoines.com
Now we arrive at the area where I do my Spanish groceries by car of course: this is Brochant, opened in 1912, you can walk in the park parc Clichy-Batignolles Martin Luther King, by rue Cardinet; done in 1970,by the old train station of Cardinet with 100k sq meters.The nice square des Batignolles, at place Charles Fillon, ,and the village des Batignolles, very nice traditional Paris streets away from the crowds. Have a glass and meal at Les Puces des Batignolles, 110 rue Legendre, and do your Spanish shopping at Cap HIspania ,23 Rue Jouffroy d’Abbans 75017 .www.caphispania.fr . We move in to Miromesnil, opened in 1923 on the line 9 and since 1973 on the line 13. The first of line 13 to be equipped with protection doors in the platform. Here you see the magnificent church eglise Saint Augustin, 8 avenue César Caire, built between 1860-1871 with a dome of 50 meters, the first to be done in metal and glass, wonderful. Here you can walk too to the Chapelle Expiatoire et square Louis XVI; at the spot where the remains of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were found and later transfer to basilique de Saint Denis. You ,also, worthwhile to see the church of eglise Saint Philippe-du-Roule, 154 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, built between 1774-1784. Have a glass at Cafe Le MIro, 29 rue de la Boétie, see the wonderful Musée Jacquemart-André, 158 blvd Haussmann, treasure of Italian paintings and great cafe Jacquemart-André inside. See, also the famous concert hall Salle Gaveau, 45 rue La Boétie done in 1908, high ground of classical music in Paris. Move over to my hangout favorite Charles Birdy, 124 rue La Boétie after the parrot of Winston Churchill, great ambiance and drinks, the Hotel Bristol at 112 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré,and another of my hangouts at L’Evasion, 7 pl Saint Augustin to have a drink light meal and see the world go by you.
You arrive now at Varenne, opened in 1923,on the line 10,then in 1937 to line 14,and then finally in 1976 to line 13. During the WWII this station was closed while the French government was at Vichy, the station reopen in 1962. See the Hotel Matignon, 57 rue de Varenne ,one of the most beautiful mansions of Paris, and from 1937 houses the chief of State, and built in 1720. The owners were the count or comte de Matignon, then Princes of Monaco, then Talleyrand, Napoleon Ier,and finaly in 1922 France buys it. See the wonderful walks at rue de Grenelle, around the Invalides, the building of the national French Education is at no 110 angle with rue de Bellechasse.See the hotel de Chatelet at no 127, hotel de Villars at no 118,that house the shop of Delacroix,and the grand hotel Villars where the present mayor’s office of the 7éme arrondissement is located. Go on to No 85 for the Hotel d’Avaray and next the Hotel d’Estrées that houses the Russian embassy. Move over to Rue de Varenne, and continue the wonderful architecture with at no 47 hotel de Boisgelin, and hotel Gallifet at no 50, that houses the services of the Italian embassy. Continue on rue de Breteuil, from the place Vauban along the hotel des INvalides, there you see a tea tree as one of the oldest in Paris,and it is here that the most rich families of Paris live. You can see the wonderful Musée Rodin, 79 rue de Varenne, done in 1730 the hotel Biron, and by 1919 the museum is opened. The great sculptor Rodin. See the unique Cinema La Pagode at 57bis rue Babylone, a wonderful Japonese room, the cinema built in 1896. In 1931 the cinema opens to the public,and shows films of Jean Cocteau like the Testament d’Orphée in 1959. You have a very nice cafe as Cafe du Musée Rodin inside the museum, and Le Basilic, 2 rue Casimir Perier for real beef lovers.
Now we reach Gaité, open on line 14 in 1937 ,and then to line 13 in 1976. YOu see the church Eglise Notre Dame du Travail, 36 rue Guillemnot, done between 1899-1901 to house the working class of the district. Here lies the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson at 2 impasse Lebois, a temple of photography in Paris! built in 1912 and the fondation here since 2003. See wonderful rue de la Gaité, a different area than Montparnasse where you find the théatre Bobino done in 1867, to house great music idols such as Leo Ferré,and Georges Brassens.Théatre du Montparnasse at no 31 and finally enjoy the Comedie Italienne at no 17 and the théatre de la Gaité montparnasse at no 26. You can drink and food with great ambiance at the western the l’Indiana Club, 77 avenue du Maine, late opening and cards games right on the tables for fun.
We end up our tour at the Porte de Vanves, opened in 1937 for over 40 years the terminus of line 14, enlarge in 1976 and taken by line 13. You see here the nice Parc Georges Brassens, at the old village of Vaugirard annexed to Paris in 1860, He rends hommage to the singer that lives a great part of his life nearby at 9 impasse Florimont then at 42 rue Santos-Dumont, entrance to park by rue des Morillons.You have a great market here at Puces de la porte de Vanves, entrance on Avenue Marc Sangnier, and the old books market at Marché du livre ancien et d’occasion, 104 rue Brancion. Have a glass and meal at Le Grand Pan where Georges Brassens still can be sense, at 20 rue Rosenwald.
Fondest memory: when necessary walking is better
It has 13,8 kms of tracks, traverse the city from north to southwest; the first track opened in 1910 from Porte de Versailles to Notre Dame-de-Lorette. There is a tunnel underneath Montmartre traversing the gypsun rocks to go to Jules Joffrin in 1912. The stations of Abbesses and Lamarck-Caulaincourt are 36 and 25 meters deep respectively.
We begin this rich ride at Abbesses, opened in 1912, with 36 meters deep, and a nice stair in a helicoidale form, the name comes from the abbey from 1133AD Dames de Montmartre. It had 45 abbesses until the revolution stop all, the only remains of the times is the church of St Pierre. The main sight thus is the famous and magnificent Basilique du Sacré-Coeur,main entrance 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre; started built in 1877 and done 40 years later; with a wonderful view of the city of Paris below it. Church or Eglise Saint-Jean-de-Montmartre at 18 rue des Abbesses, named by the locals Notre Dame des briques or bricks; Built between 1894 and 1904. The first church to be build with solid wire cement. The highly touristic Place du Tertre, going down to the place des Abbesses, . You can enjoy Chez Eugéne, right in the pl du Tertre as well. We continue to Pigalle, opened in 1902; after the famous sculptur of Madame de Pompadour-Pigalle.
We continue our journey to Saint-Georges, opened in 1911. Walk around the lovely place Saint Georges,great architecture, and Sand and Chopin met Bizet in the Square Orléans.At no 27 the politicians were arrested at the hotel Thiers while a coup d’Etat of Napoleon III in 1851. Not far from here Truffaut does the Le Dernier Métro in the little theater high up in rue Saint Georges. See the cié Malesherbes, near ave Frochot , here at No 5 lived Ludovic Lepic the initiator of the impressionists. See the unique Musée de la vie Romantique to see the romantic life as per George Sand, Lamartine,and Delacroix,at 16 rue Chaptal. Move over to our next stop at Trinité-D’Estienne D’Orves, one of my romantic areas in Paris, the station was opened in 1910 in reference to the church. Here the heroes of the French resistance established the first radio communication between France and London. The man was Count Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves, betrayed captured by the nazis, transfer to Berlin, the nazi tribunal was so impress b his bravery,that ask for his grace to hitler, never mind he was shot in firing squad execution at the Mont Valérien (Suresnes dept 92) on August 29th, 1941. You must see the church of église de la Trinité, built in 1861, at place d’Estienne d’Orves. Walk the Rue de la Tour des Dames, quartier or district of intellectuals, such as No 1 Mademoiselle Mars, No 3 mademoiselle Duchesnoir, friend of Victor Hugo. See the wonderful Musée Gustave-Moreau, created while he was still alive, by the master of Matisse and influential of André Breton,painting of its best, see at 14 rue de La Rochefoucauld. Go see the théatre Mogador, at 25 rue de Mogador built in 1913, as a london music hall imitation, named Palace Theatre, change name in 1919 the old name of the city of Essauoira in Morocco and with the opening presence of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt.
We are now at my favorite train station in Paris, because to go to work in Paris went by it for five years straight. Saint Lazare, opened in 1904,and still one of the stations the most traveled in the Paris metro system. You can see the the sculpture L’Heure pour tous by Arman at the cours de Havre. The station took its name from the rue Saint Lazare and the train stationi SNCF. hall of the salle des pas perdu dates from 1854. You come to see a wonderful monument ,Chapelle expiatoire at 29 rue Pasquier, built in 1861 at the same spot where the remains of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette before been transfer to the Basilique de Saint Denis in 1815. The chapel was covered by the personal funds of Louis XVIII The name expiatoire was because it was never use as a chapel, just remembrance. The altar is the precise spot of the remains of Louis XVI were found. Chateaubriand call it the “possibly the best remarcable monument in Paris”. You see and I past by every day the Lycée Condorcet, built in 1803,It was once named after Bonaparte, then Bourbon, Fontanes, and finally Condorcet. A prestigious high school or lycée of France, some of its disciples were Marcel Proust and Alexandre Dumas pére,, others were Desjardins, Jaurés, Mallarmé, Merleau-Ponty,Pagnol, Poulenc,and Sartre. it is at 8 rue du Havre. you see the wonderful cinema Les Cinq Caumartin, from 1939 at 101 rue Saint Lazare, see the Casino de Paris,16 rue de Clichy, done in 1730 by duke of Richelieu,built for his amusement the folie Richelieu, then a place of spectacles in 1811, a skating ring was built ,the church de la Trinité was moved a bit further by Haussmann, in 1880 the Palace Théatre was done, then in WWI, the Casino took its place,and by 1930, the director offered Josephine Baker gives a leopard as gift name Chiquita,she sings here, many memories here. You see the church Saint Louis d’Antin at 63 rue Caumartin, at the request of Louis XVI in 1782, the church was done, stop service during the revolution, came back to the cult in 1795, and parish church in 1802.
We move across river to the Assemblée Nationale , opened in 1910, until 1989 it was name Chambre des Députées. The house of representatives of France. The nice bridge I cross all the time in my car, Pont de la Concorde linking the quai des Tuileries to Orsay, done with the stones from the Bastille in 1791. You see the wonderful Palais Bourbon, annexed, guarded by the Republican guards, and the seat of the govt since 1798, itself built in 1726, dressed with corinthians columns in 1806, to replica the church of the Madeleine that faces it across the Seine, see the palais Bourbon at 126 rue de l’Université and 33 quai d’Orsay. See the wonderful Hotel de Brienne, at 14 rue Saint Dominique, built in the 17C houses today the Ministry of Defense. It was once the home of the mother of Napoleon I, purchase by the State in 1817. Georges Clemenceau prepares victory in WWI here from 1917,and De Gaulle makes two grand speeches from here in 1940, and from 1944-1946 See the Basilique Saint Clotilde, 23bis rue Las Cases, done in 1856,and church since 1857, given title of Basilica by Pope Leon XIII on the occasion of the 1900 years of CLovis baptisme to honor his wife Clotilde. King Clovis of the Francs ,as in France get it, and wife was wisigoth and Christian who converted him for the battle of his life in 496AD, then all French kings are crown at same spot Reims cathedral.
We reach Solférino, opened in 1910; For a great battle in Solferino , Lombardie Italy in 1859 then agains the Austrians, this huge battle of many dead 40 000 then French troop led by Napoleon III beat theAustrain emperor Franzs- Joseph, from this a man Henri Durant a Swiss, established the Red Cross with its first convention in Geneva in 1864. He receives the Nobel Peace Prize n 1901 before his death in 1910. Here of course, you see the monumental Musée d’Orsay, 62 rue de LIlle, an old train station destroyed by the communards in 1871, survive possible destruction in 1970,and save into the museum we see today. Across you see the Musée de la Legion d’Honneur, 2 rue de la Légion d’Honneur, it was this building called the Palace of Siam done in 1782, burned by the communards again,,,The American Thomas Jefferson was one of its most admirers; the museum houses the souvenirs of Napoleon that created it in 1802. Other beauty nearby is the Hotel de Beauharnais, 78 rue de LIlle, first stone done in 1713, attached to the other hotel de Seignelay, it was the home of the son of Joséphine ,wife of Napoleon I, and decorated by her. It is one of the best decoration examples of Napoleon I Egyptian campaign. The prince sold the hotel to the Prussian delegation in 1817,and today its the embassy of Germany in Paris. The gorgeous and historical La Maison de l’Amérique Latine, 217 blvd Saint Germain, with its French gardens, and wonderful Latin Americans specialties, great food indeed. The other jewel La Maison des Polytechniciens -Restaurant Le Poulpry, 12 rue de Poitiers.
Move over to Rue du Bac, opened in 1910, named Motte, then renovated in 1984. In 1550, a long boat call a bac was used to descend to the Seine here, now its the quai Voltaire. It serves for the c onstruction of the palais des Tuileries in 1579. See here the Prime Minister’ home at Hôtel Matignon, 57 rue de Varenne, built in 1722; with an interior park of 3 hectares done in 1902. See the Fontaine des Quatre-Saisons at 57-59 rue de Grenelle it once provided water to Paris. Voltaire critic the size of the fountain,and wasteful funds in 1739. See the wonderful Hotel de Roquelaure, 246 blvd Saint Germain, the seat of the ministry of ecology etc, built in 1724, with a beautiful room of shells! See the uniquely nice, church or Eglise Saint Thomas d’Aquin or St Thomas Aquinas at place Saint Thomas d’Aquin, started construction in 1682, finished in 1769. In 1791 it was the parish church and place under his orders, before it was name church of Saint Dominique. See the unique museum of glass of musée de Verre, 31 rue Saint Guillaume, only visited upon previous request, great architecture with metal and glass. See the Musée des Lettres et des Manuscrits, at 222 blvd Saint Germain, built in 1608,you have the letter done by Louis XVI to all French before departing to escape t Varenne. You see the ball of Moulins, from the name fo the city, that during the war in 1870 were not getting letters, they put like 700 inside a canon ballast and put afloat on the river ,the last was founded in 1980! Another nice museum, Musée Maillol, 61 rue de Grenelle, showing the painting and sculptures of Maillol,and other such as Gauguin, Bonnard, Redon,Kandisky,and Poliakoff. And for exotique Paris see the store Deyrolle Taxidermiste, 46 rue du Bac, stuff animals since 1931;weird.
Fondest memory: We move on to Rennes, It was an old phantom station closed since 1939,and finally reopened in 1968. until 2004 its hours were reduced to closing by 20h,Sundays,and Holidays. Now its as normal as any other station. See here the Chapelle Saint Joseph des Carmes, 70 rue de Vaugiraud, done in 1620, it served as prison during the revolution,and known massacres of Sept 1792, when 116 priests were killed. At no 40 you see statue of count or comte de Rochambeau, who was at the head of French troops helping the American rebels gained independance from England and aide in the American victory at Yorktown. at no 44, the home of Garat, the succesor of Danton at the ministry of justice, and the one who announced the arrest of Louis XVI.
And we end our ride at Notre-Dame-des-Champs, opened too in 1910, named after the church in blvd Montparnasse,and the underground entry to the greens of the Jardin du Luxembourg or as locals call it “luco” . Of course, we start to see the Jardin du Luxembourg, done in 1617 for Marie de Médicis.The great Le Nôtre had its hands on the gardens from 1635; great decorations of nature all over, main entrances by Place Edmond Rostand, rue Guynemer, and rue Vaugiraud. Inside see the Palais du Sénat or the French govt Senate; the building was done in 1612, it has been a royal palace, prison, then national palace in 1792, many famous spent prison here such as Danton, Fabre d’Eglatine and David. We need to wait to 1814 for Gisors to built the semi circle chairs that is part of the Senate today. the unique Musée Zadkine, 110bis rue d’Assas, born in 1890 in Russia,and frequent the Montparnasse of the years 1910. See the funny Théatre des Marionnettes, inside the jardin too, great for children since 1933 by the great Guignol.
I like to tell some historical stories of the Paris metro. Paris has 14 metro lines so far, and it was not the first one to have one. It all started with the idea of hosting the Universal Expo of 1900, so to be ready work on the metro began in 1897. Tonite I will talk about line 10 of the Metro de Paris.
Its a small line only 11,7 kms long, from east to west of Paris. The first track was done in 1923 from Invalides to Croix-Rouge, which since closed from 1939, stop name after the bishop of Meaux, it became Invalides-Mabillon in 1925,then Invalides-Odéon in 1926, the next line was GAre d’Austerlitz just by WWII in 1939 and then one last one in 1981! Boulogne.
We begin our ride at Porte d’Auteuil, one of my favorites entries into Paris by car. Opened in 1923, in the Village of Auteuil annexed to Paris in 1860. You hve the wonderful hippodrom d’Auteuil for horse racing with obtacles, big race here is the Grand Steeple-Chase de Paris. You can see the jardin et serres d’Auteuil; done in 1898, on the old veggy plot of Louis XV, and today provides vegetables to all the city of Paris! The huge dome for palms is 99 meters long and 16 meters high. see at 3 avenue de la porte d’Auteuil or 1 avenue Gordon Bennett. See the wonderful Villa de Montmorency at 12 rue Poussin, it has 24 houses for show biz folks, in one of the most secret places in Paris ,until now ::) You grab a drink at Le Congres d’Auteuil, 144 blvd Exelmans, Le Beaujolais d’Auteuil, 99 blvd de Montmorency. Move over to Mirabeau, open in 1913, the great man who at the dissoluton of the Assembly cry the famous words ” go tell those who send you, that we are here by the will of the people, and we will only come out by the point of bayonnets”, mais after research we found a fake armory that show his double game as spy, he was a loyal servant of king Louis XVI!!! I past here often on the Pont de Mirabeau, while looking already at the tour Eiffel, a metallic bridge done in 1895-1897. You see the Church Catholique Russe de la Sainte-Trinité, the Russian Catholic church at 39 rue François Gérard, after the Russian revolution of 1917 the Russian Catholics found refuge in Paris, The church was done in 1930 as a chapel, Redone in 1960 and finally in 1980 done what you see today. A nice meal can be taken at La Terrace Mirabeau, 5 pl de Barcelone, refine cooking with a nice terrace overlooking the pont.
Another wonderful station we go next, Javel-André Citroên, opened in 1913, it is by here that a factory was done with chemical products that gave way to javel or clorox in 1777, later it was for automobiles until finally closed in 1970; see the parc André Citroên, 13 hectares on the fields of the auto maker.Quai André Citroên, see, also the church église Saint-Christophe de Javel, 4 rue Saint-Christophe, done in 1933, the patron saint of travelers. Here you can take a hot air balloon at the parc to go up 150 meters above Paris, www.ballondeparis.com We are now going to Charles Michels, opened in 1913 as Beaugrenelle, it change name after a resistant figher in WWII killed by the nazis in 1941. You see what I see at the pont de Grenelle, done in 1884, replaced by a metallic bridge in 1984,and by here you see a smaller scale replica of the Statue of Liberty, given to the city of Paris by the American community of Paris in 1885! At the old printing house it isnow the ministry of foreign affairs of France, done from 1538 later replace by cardinal Richelieu in 1640, see at 27 rue de la Convention. Have a drink at Le Lutétia, 49 rue Linois.
We continue to Sévres-Babylone, done in 1910, for the rue de Sévres,and rue de Babylone as they were two railroad companies vying for the lines, it was decided to name them after both sides of the streets. Nearby you see that other great Paris dept store,Bon Marché, www.lebonmarche.com Here you see the wonderful Hotel Lutetia, 45 blvd Raspail, done in 1910 by the owners of the dept store. The sculptures are done by Paul Belmondo the father of the fame French cinema actor Jean-Paul Belmondo. The famous stayed here even the children care for by Josephine Baker. Here the deported to concentration camps from return to FRance were housed and welcome. You see the wonderful, Chapelle de la Medaille MIraculeuse, or chapel of the miracle medal a sister was awaken in 1830 by a child, who tell her to come tothe chapel, make a medal told the virgin, those who wear it, will received great miracles: today weared by millions of Catholics. see it at 140 rue de Bac.Go shopping at the Bon Marché, done in 1838, see it at 24 rue de Sévres. Have a drink at the Bar Lutétia, inside the hotel, or have a great dinner at L’Epi Dupin, 11 rue Dupin, a disciple of Robuchon will serve you great food.
Moving onwards to Mabillon, opened in 1925, see the wonderful place de Furstenberg, the abbey of St GErmain des Prés in 1689; must go to the museum or Musée Delacroix, 6 rue Furstenberg , the painter lived here from 1857 to his last day in August 13, 1863. So he can be close to the church or eglise Saint-Sulpice where he was painting the chapel of Saint-Anges. Go by the vibrant, market or marché Buci, rue Baci, near there at No 27 rue Mazarine you have a passage little known, two more steps and you are at the wall of Philippe Auguste in a parking at rue de Seine! Go to one of my favorites, the L’Alcazar, 62 rue Mazarine, www.alcazar.fr or the wonderful Chez Georges, 11 rue des Canettes, done in 1928 , a bistro of Paris!
We are now in old Paris, Cluny-La Sorbonne, opened in 1930. It was an unused station until to give access to the RER B And C at Notre Dame St Michel it was reopened in 1988. See the wonderful Thermes et hotel de Cluny, in a museum old spas of Romans times, renovated in 1844 and with the arénes of rue Monge rest one of the last remnants of Lutéce frm the 2C and 3C AD. The building is with that of Sens one of the best remaining examples of medieval Paris built in 1485-1498. see at 6 place Paul Painlevé. See the magnificent Sorbonne, done in 1257 AD! rebuilt in 1625 by Cardenal Richelieu, closed during the revolution, and reopened by Napoleon I in 1806. The current look dates from 1885, the chapel was done in 1635, and it hold the tomb of Cardinal Richelieu. see at 21 rue Broca. Get a drink at Le Stop Cluny, 94 blvd Saint GErmain; have a meal at Le Reflet, 6 rue Champollon, great food. We move over to Maubert-Mutualité, Here in 1588 se saw the first support for the duke o Guise, the market of Maubert done in 1547 its one of the oldest in Paris. See the great church or eglise Saint Séverin, 5 rue Saint Séverin, with the oldest bell in Paris dating from 1412!!! The magnificent church eglise saint Julien le Pauvre, 79 rue Galande, just facing the oldest tree in Paris ,391 years old facing the square Viviani, and the church the ancestral burial of the Merovigians kings. Destroyed during the revolution ,the church came back in 1889 as the Greek rite melkite. See the wonderful architecture of the Musée de l’Assistance Publique done in 1934, a hospital museum. See the Collége des Bernardins, 20 rue de Poissy, here the monks from all over Europe were trained,see www.collegedesbernadins.fr You get a glass at Le Village Ronsard, 47 blvd Saint Germain, while maybe going for a book at the famous Librarie Shakespeare & Co, 37 rue de la Bûcherie. See the unique Lucha Libre, 10 rue de la Montagne-Sainte-Géneviéve, see wrestling a la mexican,and constant see the Rocky Horror Picture Show at 42 rue Galande.
We arrive at our end, stopping at Cardinal Lemoine, opened in 1931, honoring the bishop of the Cathedral of Bayeux,and later of Arras. Here you see the magnificent Panthéon, order of Louis XV in 1744 to do a church at the hill of the abbey of Sainte Geneviéve, The first remains to be brought here were those of Mirabeau, Voltaire, Rousseau,and Murat. It was named Panthéon from 1830.see at Place du Panthéon. Have a drink at Les Petits Ecoliers, 32 rue Monge, see the collection des minéraux de Pierre et Marie Curie, 4 place Jussieu, the work of these two great doctor scientists. Come to see for sure the church or église Saint Etienne-du-Mont, at place Sainte-Géneviève, done under François I, finished on the reign of Louis XIII, from 1803 it houses the chase or box reliquary of Sainte Geneviève (patron saint of the city of Paris). Go by the Collége de France, 11 place Marcelin Berthelot, done in 1590 and offfers free courses, without giving any diploma,open to all. Have a pint or drink at the English pub The Bombardier, 2 place du Panthéon, here Woody Allen shot a scene from Midnight in Paris.
Fondest memory: when necessary walking is better
Paris has 14 metro lines so far, and it was not the first one to have one. It all started with the idea of hosting the Universal Expo of 1900, so to be ready work on the metro began in 1897. Tonite I will talk about line 9 of the Metro de Paris.
It is 19,6 kms long, coming from the bourgeoises of the south west of Paris to the working class of the east of Montreuil. The first track was opened in 1922 from Exelmans to Trocadéro; interesting under the pont de l’Alma there is 14 meters deep of tunnels. This line of my favorites of course, its also the history of France! On April 4, 1943 the factory yards of Renault were destroyed by the English, even if the damage was big, the work of repairs took only five days!
We start our ride at the nice Porte de Saint-Cloud, it is unique that it has four lanes, full when matches at the parc des princes stadium, all right around the old village of Auteuil, where great wines were once made and the great Moliére,Racine, and Boileau tasted them. Where Chateaubriand,the Goncourt and Proust spent their time, the village was annexed to Paris in 1860. The workers at the end of the 19c were house here in three villas, Dietz-Monnin, Emile Meyer,and Cheysson. You can see them along rue Parent-de-Rosan. The football/soccer stadium Parc des Princes is here, but before it was a hunting ground of the kings, and from 1841 with a building and garden it care for the rich . IN 1897 a velodrome was built,and host in 1903 the first arrivals of the Tour de France bicycle race. In 1972 the stadium we see today was built.at 24 rue du commandant Guilbaud. www.leparcdesprinces.fr Some great place tohave a drink or eat at Brussel’s Cafe,71 bd Exelmans,Cafe Edouard,78 ave Edouard Vaillant (boulogne-billancourt), and Le Cardinal,5 pl de la porte de saint cloud.
You now come to my most favorite area in Paris, so far a secret ,almost but from the travel forum I am, maybe it will be touristic one day, still its sublime Paris at its best. La Muette, is what I am talking about. The name Muette is still not fix as its origins, it is reference to the Chateau de la Muette,or the muets a gang of dogs used for the hunt at the bois de boulogne, or the house of hunting of Charles IX; its still mystically magical. You see the museum house Maison de Balzac, 47 rue Raynouard,he lived there under a false name of Bruegnol, it is here that he writes his monumental work The humain comedy or better La Comédie Humaine. Get your lotto ticket and a hot coffee at Tabac de la Muette Bongrand, 6 Chaussée de la Muette. See the wonderful Théatre du Ranelagh, 5 rue des Vignes, open in 1900, it became a cinema of arts in 1931, today it showcase new talent;www.theatre-ranelagh.com ; have a nice coffee break at Café l’Amadeus, 54bis avenue Mozart. Do great shopping at the Galerie Commerciale Passy Plazza by 53 rue de Passy, 26 boutiques a la française. And see the best restaurant in Paris, La Gare my all time favorite at 19 Chaussée de la Muette www.restaurantlagare.com
You go on to Iéna, opened in 1923, named after Napoleon victory over the Prussian on this town in 1806. You see here the new great Musée du quai Branly, 37 quai Branly, the Africa,Asia,Oceania,and the Americas showcase. Also the Musée Guimet, 6 place Iéna, opened in 1889,Asian arts at its best. You have a drink at Au Bon accueil, 12 rue Longchamp. See more the museum of fashion, Palais Gailliera, musée de la mode,open as a palace in 1894, recently reopen with 90 000 pieces of fashion. The Baccarat, enough said.11 place des Etats Unis. We continue to Alma-Marceau, named after a French victory in Crimea in 1854,celebrated here by Napoleon III. When you go out of the metro you see Flamme de la liberté, gift of the internationalherald tribune to France a replica of that which is on top of the Statue of LIberty this that was a gift of France to the USA. He has the sad memory of been the place where Princess Diana died in an auto accident in 1997. You see ,also, the wonderful Pont de l’Alma, built in 1854 by Napoleon III celebration of this victory. Here you ,also ,have the zouave that marks the level of water of the Seine, if he has the feet in the water the Seine is flooded ,the worst took place in 1910 when the water reach the shoulders. The théatre des Champs-Elysées, 15 avenue Montaigne, built in 1913, a gorgeous view from the roofstop.See the wonderful Palais de Tokyo, 13 avenue du Président Wilson, built in 1937,the comtemporary exhibits are done here since 2002. Some places chic to play and eat here are Le Baron,6 avenue Marceau, very hip branché, chic, dress tokill, Le Crazy Horse, 12 avenue George V, you know it since 1951.La Fermette Marbeuf, 5 rue Marbeuf, decoration 1900, food inheaven.
We reach Franklin D Rooselvelt, In 1942 the line was named Marbeuf Rond Point des Champs Elysées but WWII made it change the name after the US PResident, the liberator in 1946. See the super chic Avenue MOntaigne, with the Plaza Athénée hotel, open in 1911, the quartier François Ier or district of François Ier the first building to see the light in 1823 nice from avenue Franklin Rooselvelt to avenue George V. Go shopping at 66 ave Champs-Elysées, the wonderful resto Le Boeuf sur le toit,34 rue du Colisée, or have a late coffee at Le Madrigal, 32 ave Champs-Elysées. We move over to Saint-Augustin, opened in 1923, link to the Gare St Lazare, see the wonderful church or église Saint Augustin, 8 ave César Caire, done in 1861 first to be done in metal and glass with a dome of 50 meters in the old district of Little Poland. See the wonderful architecture of the Cercle national des armées, at 8 pl Saint Augustin, done in 1928 to welcome the officers of the French armed forces. Have a beer or snacks at L’Evasion, 7 pl Saint Augustin, great views over the plaza. Continue at Chaussées d’Anton-La Fayette, opened in 1910, the house at no 18-22 in 1977 it was discovered 21 heads of the kings of juda, taken fromthe front of the Cathedral of Notre Dame in 1799! The rest is in honor of Lafayette the French who help the American independance. See the world famous nightclub L’Olympia, , and one of my favorites the Théatre Edouard VII, the most French of English kings, and who love Paris. See the wonderful Le Grand Café des Capucines, 4 blvd des Capucines,and of course the Grands magasin, Au Printemps and Galeries Lafayette.
We arrive at Charonne, opened in 1933, takes its name from the abbey of Saint Magliore by the king Robert II le Pieux in 1008AD. See the mansion or hotel Montagne at 53 rue de Charonne, done in 1660, and it was here in 1746, was born the conservatoire national des arts et métiers. See the wonderful architecture at the Palais de la Femme-Fondation de l’Armée du salut. From 1926 took refuge of young women,now its the Salvation Army of France. It is said that here was buried Cyrano de Bergerac….Have a drink at the L’Armagnac Café, 104 rue de Charonne.
Fondest memory: when necessary walk is better
This line link Balard at the southwest to Crétéil-Préfecture in the southeast. The line lines were opened from 1913; it is unique that it crosses two bodies of water the Seine and the Marne rivers. Seine underground and the Marne most above ground.
We get our headgear going at Balard, opened in 1937, and here we have the parc André Citroên opened in 1992, at the site of the old factories of automobile maker Citroên, start by 56 rue Balard,quai André Citroên, see the nice Cafe Balard, at 3 place Balard for a drink, and take your kids as mine did to Aquaboulevard, a huge aquatic park actually the biggest in Europe! 7000 sq meters of it, at 4 rue Louis Armand off the peripherique, also see Paris from above at the hot air balloon at the parc André Citroên going up to 150 meters . Move over to Commerce, named after the rue de commerce, in the old village of Grenelle annexed to Paris in 1860. The great place du Commerce, and the lovely rue violet ,see the firehouse at no 6 place Violet done in 1824.The square Violet open in 1876 with a nice music kiosk and the rue de l’eglise with great architecture see angle of place Etienne Pernet the church of Saint Jean Baptiste de Grenelle done in 1905. See the resto Le Commerce, 80 rue du Commerce, the many quaint shops along the rue,and the famous Cafe du Commerce at 51 rue du Commerce in three floors open in 1921 and still a classic,one of my favorites.
We move in towards the Seine at La Motte-Piquet-Grenelle, opened in 1906, , see the wonderful village Suisse done from the universal expo of 1900 now with 150 antique shops at 78 avenue de Suffren,try the wonderful resto Au Dernier Métro at 70 blvd de Grenelle, my favorite 7éme vin at 68 ave de Suffren. We reach the Ecole Militaire, opened in 1913, it is located at the location of a great rock limiting the rue Cler and the rue Saint Dominique and serve as frontier between abbey of Saint Geneviéve, and abbey of Saint Germain. See the magnificent Ecole Militaire, created by Louis XV in 1750, one of its most famous cadres was Napoleon Bonaparte in 1784, now its a war school from 1878; at 1 pl Joffre, move over the nice lawns at Champ-de-Mars when in 1765 it was done as field of manouvers for the military; it was here that the party of the Federation (republic after the revolution) was held on July 14, 1790. Wonderful Avenue Rapp, with its fontaine de Mars, and Rue Saint Dominique (one of the streets that change the most of names from chemin des Treilles, 1433, Chemin Herbu o chemin Herbu des Moulins a vent 1523, Chemin et chemin des vaches 1542, finally in 1631 she is named Saint Dominique. We go over nearby to Invalides, now linking the metro and the RER C plus the aerogare Air France. See Les Invalides, from 1670Louis XIV try to improve the care of the soldiers. Hotel des Invalides, to care for the wounded soldiers and still has some care for here. The Eglises du Dome et Saint Louis des Invalides, two wonderful churches. At the Dome, rest Napoleon Iér, at Place Vauban. One of my favorites places is the Esplanade des Invalides, by the canons, and Cafe de l’Esplanade. Walk over the pont Alexandre III, given by the tzar of Russia,Nicolas II son of Alexandre III to celebrate the Franco-Russian alliance. The long Rue de l’Université of 2,7 kms long;due to the University of Paris from the 12C, get a nice glass at the Cafe des Ministeres, 83 rue de l’Université, see the wonderful musée de l’Armée at 129 rue de Grenelle, the Historial Charles de Gaulle at the Invalides, entered by cour d’honneur ,aile d’Orient. Under the bridge Alexandre III see the nightclub Le Showcase, big electronic, and the golden youth of Paris.
Now come over to my shopping area and we stop at Madeleine, a small quarter became the Ville l’Evéque or bishops town, and its chapel was dedicated to Sainte Madeleine in the 13C in reference to Marie-Madeleine. She cry on the foot of Christ and from that in French we have the expression “pleurer comme un madeleine” or cry like a madeleine. The line was opened in 1913. The church was begun in 1764, in 1805 the emperor Napoleon made into a temple, where it was finish like a Greek temple in 1806. The luxurious Place Vendome, a giant statue of louis XIV, destroyed by the revolution in 1792, Napoleon rebuilt a tower to honor his triumph at Austerlitz; around it you have the hotel Ritz where Coco chanel and Charlie Chaplin hangout as well as a guy name Ernest Hemingway and the bloody mary drink was created here. Underneath the church try the magnificent Le Foyer de la Madeleine entered at 14 rue de Suréne,side of store Fauchon, behind the flower shops. See the collection 1900 de Pierre Cardin at Maxim’s 3 Rue Royale.
Moved right alone to Richelieu-Drouot, opened in 1931, where a monument to railroad workers who died in WWI in a black marble. The wonderful boulevards ,blvd des Italiens, the most chic in the 19C The siege of my bank BNP is here at the maison dorée which in the 19C it housed the Cafe Hardy at No 20, next to cafe Riche at no 16, and ice cream maker Tortoni at No 22 facing Credit Lyonnaise at No 17. See the Passage des Princes opened in 1860 5 blvd des italiens, the most recent of the passages of Paris. The wonderful Opéra-Comique one of the oldest theatrical and music halls of France done under Louis XIV in 1714.It reopen in 2005 under a for theatrical shows, 1 place Boieldieu, www.opera-comique.com Have a glass at Le Cardinal, 1 blvd les Italiens, A la mere de famille, the oldest chocolate shop in Paris from 1761! at 35 re du Faubourg-Montmartre. The Aux Lyonnais, real bouchon of lyon since 1890 here at 32 rue Saint-Marc.
Moved right over to the Grands Boulevards, it was called Montmartre then Rue Montmartre and finally the current name in 1998! See the wonderful passage des panoramas,the oldest from 1799 between Bourse and Opéra. In 1816 gaslights were installed and other galleries annexed in 1830 such as Saint marc, Des Variétés, de la Bourse,Feydeu,and Montmartre. Entrance by 11 blvd Montmartre or 151 rue montmartre or 6-8 rue Saint marc or 50 rue Vivienne. Go over to Passage Jouffroy done in 1847, and the site of the wax museum or musée Grévin, entrance at 10-12 blvd Montmartre or 9 rue de la Grange-Batéliére. Continue on to Passage Verdeau, lots of musical instruments and post cards stores at the extension of passage Jouffroy or by the 4 rue de la Grange-Batéliére. See here the theatre des Variétés from 1807, 7 blvd Montmartre,Theatre des Nouveautés from 1921 at 24 blvd Poissonniére, Max LInder Panorama, from 1914 one of the emblematic cinema houses of Paris. same address. Musée de la Franc-Maçonnerie or free masons museum from 1889 at 16 rue Cadet; see the great Chez Carmen , 53 rue Vivienne, for dancing and party until wee hours, as well as the Social Club, 142 rue Montmartre DJ concerts in Paris at its best.
We go away to Bonne Nouvelle, opened in 1931 , see the Cité Bergére, architecture marvel at 6 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre to 23 rue Bergére. a romantic walk over to Cité de Trévise, from 18 rue Richer out 7 rue Bleue, neo rennaissance architecture. The famous Folies Bergére the first music hall of France at 32 rue Richer, Grand Rex, from 1932 after the radio music hall of NYC renovated in 1981 and it has the biggest screen in France at 1 blvd Poissonniere. Moving towards older Paris is the Strasbourg-Saint Denis, opened in 1908, first named boulevard saint denis, and later added the other boulevard. The nice things to see here is the magnificent Porte Saint Denis, done in 1672 at angle of rue du Faubourg Saint Denis and Grands Boulevards, and the Porte Saint Martin, done in 1674, at angle of rue Saint Martin,and rue Faubourg Saint Martin and grands boulevards blvd saint martin and saint denis. You have many theaters here such as Comedy Club(42 blvd Bonne Nouvelle), theatre Antoine(14 blvd de Strasbourg),and Theatre de la Renaissance(20 blvd Saint Martin). The walks here are superb along blvd Saint Denis, going down to gare du nord train station, and the little India area by the passage Brady.
Moving around you get to Filles du Calvaire, opened in 1921, from a congregation of daughters of the calvary founded at Poitiers in 1617. You see here the Cirque d’HIver, built in 1851 one of the most magnificent circus. 110 rue Amelot. The wonderful still under renovation, Musée Picasso, at 5 rue de Thorigny in the old hotel Salé of 1659,housing one of the most inclusive collection of the master. you can shop at Merci, 111 blvd Beaumarchais, a charity store what you buy here goes back to charity in 3 floors of stuff; have a glass at LE Progrés, 1 rue de Bretagne, and indulge yourself at the Marché des Enfants-Rouge, 39 rue de Bretagne, it was an orphanate of kids that wre all dressed in red thats why the name after it was converted into a market. You can something exotic at Cuba Compagnie at 48 blvd Beaumarchais. Move on to Chemin Vert, opened in 1931, You are close to the magnificent Place des Vosges, named after the department that first paid the taxes after the revolution, the old name of the plaza was that of place royale in 1622.Before Vosges it was call the place des Fédéres and in 1800 took the current name. Around the plaza is gorgeous, and a must see, see rue Payenne, rue de Francs-Bourgeois , . You can have a drink here at Cafe Hugo, 22 pl des Vosges or Ma Bourgogne, 19 pl des Vosges, and my favorite Carette, 25 pl des Vosges. See the wonderful maison de Victor Hugo at 6 place des Vosges in the old hotel mansion Rohan-Guémenee where he lived from 1832 to 1848, and the museum was created in 1902. Also, the magnificent musée Carnavalet, 23 rue de Sévigné in the old mansion of Carnavalet and from 1989 also the mansion hotel Le Peletier de Saint Fargeau, here tracing the history of Paris.
Enjoy the 8, nice number.
Fondest memory: when necessary but walking is better
Moving on to Ledru-Rollin, opened in 1931; see the wood carpenters and furniture maker at rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine, one of the oldest axis of Paris. Many inner courts such as cour du Bel Air at No 56, cour des Shadoks at No 71,and cours de l’Etoile d’Or at no 75. Continue walking on rue de Charonne, took to the village of Charonne and from 1860 part of Paris. nice courtsyards from the previous street coming into this one, at cour Saint Joseph, and cour Jacques Vigues.the nice hotel de Montagne from 1661 at No 51-53.No 78 houses from the 17C, at No 94 the palais de la femme or palace of the woman Art-Noveau from 1910 and later purchase by the Salvation Army still today largest social hotel for women in Europe. Walk into the passage Saint Antoine, Passage Josset, Passage de la Main d’or, passage Charles Dallery and reach blvd Voltaire.At 13 rue Charonne, it has an old telephone cabin from 1940!
We reach Faidherbe-Chaligny, opened in 1931, nice walks around rue de Montreuil, on the same street and see nice working class Paris. The wonderful market Marché d’Aligre at rue and place d’Aligre.Finally reach our end at the Porte Dorée, opened in 1931, see the magnificent Chateau de Vincennes, done by the Capétiens kings , dammage during WWII, renovated in 1980, still has the highest donjon tower in Europe and the only medieval structure standing in Paris. avenue de Paris. See the nice Bois de Vincennes, 1000 hectares of it, you can see the palais de la porte Dorée with a museum of the colonnies, at 293 avenue Daumesnil, and now housing the history of immigration in France museum. the aquarium tropical done in 1931, inside the palais as well. Have a drink at the Les jardins de Reuilly, 105 blvd Poniatowsky, a nice meal at the Le Chalet des Iles Daumesnil, an island, ile de Reuilly in the park bois de Vincennes, Lac Daumesnil, www.lechaletdesiles.com
After having worked in Paris, and living nearby for 8 years, I am amaze at the number of people coming from places where there is no subway.metro:tube and gladly jump in into the Paris metro and rave about it back home. Like it was a tourist attractions; well I like to tell some historical stories of the Paris metro. It all started with the idea of hosting the Universal Expo of 1900, so to be ready work on the metro began in 1897. Tonite I will talk about line 7 of the Metro de Paris.
This line has 18,6 kms, took 70 years to do all stations and is completely underground. It criss cross Paris from north east to south east with 38 stations, the first station was done in 1910 from porte de la villette to Opéra. It has two directional segments at Maison Blanche and Louis Blanc for line 7bis.
We take our ride at Gare de l’est, emblematic because when I first came to know what is today is my wife, we met here on her way to her home then in Meaux. It was first named Gare de le’Est-Verdun; where it is richly ornated with Verdun and Strasbourg, main parvis at Rue du 8 mai 1945. See the nice Couvent des Récollets a convent turn troop station, then hospital ,built in the 17-18C, you enter a courtyard where rue de paradis, then rue de la Fidelité, and out by rue du Désir.at 148 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin. My favorite here is the L’Atmosphere now, at 49 rue des Sampaix,. You come more into central Paris at Pyramides, opened in 1916, after the victory of Napoleon over the mamelouks at Mourad Bey in 1798. The nice Eglise Saint-Roch at 296 rue Saint-Honoré, done in 1655 by Louis XIV and Anne of Austria who put the first stone.It is the parrish of artists where Le Notre, Corneille, and Diderot were enterred. See the wonderful Théatre du Palais Royal where Moliére play from 1662 to 1673, the theater wanted by Richelieu, it has a magnificent stairs done in 1880, at 38 rue de Montpensier. Try a drink or meal at Le Bistrot Saint Honoré next to the marché or market at 10 rue Gomboust.
Moving over the river to Pont-Neuf, opened in 1926 at the foot of the old Samaritaine. It is a like a small museum inside the station. Right at the oldest bridge in Paris done in 1607. But even before in 1578 this site was whre Henri III was in mourning and cry here so the bridge was call the bridge of cries. The bridge eventually became the first bridge without houses on it in Paris. You see the equestrian statue of Henri IV done in 1604 in Italy the statue sank in the mediterranean, rescue, did not arrive in Paris that on 1614 while Henri IV was no longer living. It was destroyed during the French revolution, and brought back in metal by Louis XVIII, during the renovation in 2004 they found 7 cedar boxes in the horses shoes! ,It is at place Pont-Neuf. You,also, see the square du Vert-Galant, name after the lover Henri IV, now it offers a romantic view over the Louvre and the hotel de la monnaie. Another wonderful plaza is Place Dauphine, done in 1584 by Henri III, , in 1601 Henri IV continues the work and name as it is today in honor of the dauphine Louis XIII he in turn gives away the land to the parliament president and 32 houses are built identical in white stone and brick, today if you are careful you can see the two remaining houses angles at the point. Try a drink at Cafe du Pont Neuf,14 quai du Louvre, Kong the wonderful views over paris resto at 1 rue du Pont Neuf, my favorite Au Vieux Comptoir, 17 rue des Lavandiéres, very good ambiance and friendly. And dont forget to take a boat ride with the Bateaux-Vedettes du Pont Neuf at the embarcadere or harbor of square du Vert-Galant.
We arrive at Pont Marie, open in 1926, a bridge to link the rive droite with the ile de Saint Louis;in 1614 and finish in 1635. The place goes back to Louis IX convent of carmelites in 1234!!! It passes later on to the Celestins in 1352!!!. You can see here the Hotel de Sens, home since 1528 to the Cardinal Antoine Duprat, that reunites the council of Sens, in Burgundy. the comdenation of the heresy of Luther and the home of the repuditation of the queen margot. today its a wonderful library dedicated to the decorative arts. 1 rue du Figuier. The wonderful church of Saint Gervais-Saint Protais, 6C with mirrors of the 15C, it has the oldest organ in Paris dating from 1628, pl Saint-Gervais. You wandered thru and by Ile Saint Louis, it will take pages to describe it, just to tell you its magical. You can see the world and have a glass at Brasserie du Pont Louis-Philippe, 66 quai de l’Hotel de Ville, The memorial of the Shoah, with its wall of names, with 76000 jews who were deported to concenttration camps, at 17 rue Geoffrey l’Asnier. A Tradition to have an ice cream Berthillon , all begain in 1954 at Maison Berthillon, 31 rue Saint Louis-en-l’ile, and the great chocolates at La Charlotte de l’Isle, 24 rue Saint Louis-en-l’ile.
We moved on to Jussieu, an University neighborhood. station opened in 1931. First it was called Jussieu-Halle-aux-Vins, the wine market close during Napoleon it just remained Jussieu. Wine because since 1622 it came to Paris by here from all parts of France. It became an university area as today from 1957 with the tour Zamansky that was finally demolished in 2000. The Jussieu were three brothers, one left for South America,and two others created the gardens of the Jardin des Plantes! this venerable institution is a fun place for all , jardin des plantes, from an idea of Louis XIII in 1633 , open to public since 1640!!! and the naturalhistory museum or Musée National d’histoire since 1793. The parc ecologiques the labyrinthe there since 1640,just wonderful entrance by 57 rue Cuvier, 2 ue Buffon, and 36 rue Geoffrey Saint HIlaire (my favorite entrance), place Valhubert. The unique Institut du Monde Arabe, the history and education of Islam at 1 rue des Fossés-Saint Bernard. Have a glass at the Le Relais Jussieu, 37 rue Linné
Moving right alone to Place Monge, opened in 1930, the enlargement of line 10. see the magnificent les Arénes de Lutéce, end of 1C AD at a time in Roman period the city was called Lutéce,you reach them byt 49 rue Monge, rue des arénes, or square Capitan. You can walk the colorful but very touristic in my opinion rue Mouffetard, at the place de la contrescarpe, done in 1852, at No 6 two bulls from 18C shows the vestiges of a meat store, at No 1, frm the middle ages is the cabaret de la pomme de Pin, at No 122 de la rue Mouffetard, the Bonne Source reminds the presence of an old well from the times of Henri IV. At No 134 you see the arabesque vegetables and animals from dating of 17C. When at No 53 the house was demolished they found 3351 pieces of gold done with the image of Louis XV!!! Have a glass at Le Bistrot du Marché, 75bis rue Monge. you wont go wrong for a good beer and ambiance at the Le Requin Chagrin, 10 rue Mouffetard. See the Théatre de la Vieille Grille, a wonderful cafe theater with grocery store and wine store at the same time, just lovely at 9 rue Larrey .
Censier-Daubenton, is the next station that from 2010 is under a research green, as the first in the world to be dotted with diodes for lighting. THe station opened in 1930. You see the interesting church Saint Médard, there once a chapel ,destroyed in 1561 during the war of religions, the church took its look from 1784, and during the French revolution here it was done the first sermon under the new constitution ; see it at 141 rue Mouffetard. Come to see the Mosquée de Paris or Paris mosque, began in 1922, its construction rend tribute to the muslim fallen during the WWI conflict; during WWII it helps refuge many jews seeking shelter.see at 2bis place du puits de l’Ermite. Also the synagogue de la rue Vauquelin, at No 10 its the symbol temple of science, at No 15 its the library Siegmund Freud at No 9 the rabbinal school done in 1881, see it all at 9 rue Vauquelin. Have a glass at the Le Comptoir des Arts, 100 rue Monge. see the unique Lépée de bois, 100 rue mouffetard, one of the last halls in Paris showing essai arts. www.cinema-epee-de-bois.fr For old history have a glass at Le Verre à Pied, since 1914 at 118bis rue Mouffetard. The wonderful Café Léa, 5 rue Claude Bernard, the meeting place in the area and great brunch on Sundays.
We go now to the Les Gobelins, open in 1930 at the corner of arrondissement of Paris 5 and 13. The inmense Manufacture et Galerie des Gobelins, the tapestries of France! Created by Colbert from 1662, today they do it to cover the government buildings of France,see it at 42 avenue des Gobelins. See the unique Chateau de la Reine-Blanche, at 4 rue Gustave Geffroy, built in the 16C leyend has it that here took place the dance or val des Ardents where Charles VI lost his mind for ever. Have a drink at Cafe Canon des Gobelins, 25 avenue des Gobelins. L’Etchegorry is my favorite basque restaurant in Paris, at 41 rue Croulebarbe; before the place was rented to Victor Hugo, and it later was frequented by Chateaubriand, the cabaret de la mere Gregoire. www.etchegorry.com
Fondest memory: when necessary walking is better
After having worked in Paris, and living nearby for 8 years, I am amaze at the number of people coming from places where there is no subway.metro:tube and gladly jump in into the Paris metro and rave about it back home. Like it was a tourist attractions; well I like to tell some historical stories of the Paris metro. Work on the metro began in 1897. Tonite I will talk about line 6 of the Metro de Paris.
This line open in 1900 to 1906. It is 13,6 kms long with 6,1 kms above ground, with pneumatic equipement since 1974, and one of the nicest lines in the Paris metro. We begin our ride at Trocadero, this is when Chaillot was still a village and a palace of Spanish mudejar style was built inspired b the Giralda of Seville;it was replaced b todays Palais de Chaillot in 1937, and it was here that the Declaration of Human Rights was signed on December 10 1948, and on 1985 the plaza was named the Parvis des Droits de l’Homme. The first attraction is the palais de Chaillot,where many museums such as the musée de l’Homme, Marine, Architecture, Monuments Français, école de chaillot, institut Français,and the Théatre national de chaillot. all at 17 pl du Trocadero. You can be seen at the Esplanade du Trocadero with a great view of the Eiffel tower, and the Jardins du Trocadero all the way to the river Seine. There is a nice museum Cineaqua,2 avenue des nations Unis, the drinks at Cafe Carlu, 1 pl du trocadero and cafe le Malakoff, 6 pl du trocadero.
You now stop at one of my favorite Parisien places, Passy, in the old village of Passy annexed to Paris in 1860. The station was opened in 1903, with a viaduc done in 1903-1906 to connect with Bir-hakeim. Here you have Maison de Radio France with a crown of 500 meters in circumference and 70 meters high, with more than 60 studios, all at 116 avenue du Président Kennedy. This is walkable Paris at its best, take rue des Eaux to come to Rue Raynouard, building falling into the Seine, at No 47 the Maison Balzac, also live there Maupassant and where stayed Benjamin Franklin, narrow streets like rue Berton where Balzac loves to walk too, see the Théatre du Ranelagh and a bit further the carrefour de la Muette,where a castle once stood and now my favorite restaurant old train station Muette, La Gare. If you want to see a wonderful view of the Tour Eiffel, take the metro between Passy and Bir-Harkeim and come by the bridge. Have a drink at Cafe Passy, 2 rue de Passy, do some shopping here is sublime, have a sip and history at the Musée du Vin, 5 square Charles Dickens, see Musée Clemenceau, 8 rue Benjamin Franklin.
Move on to nearby Bir-Hakeim, that open in 1906 under the name Grenelle while taken the current name in 1949. Here you see the magnificent Tour Eiffel, enough said. the Pont Bir-Hakeim many times walk over and drive over, is wonderful, it was here that the LE Dernier Tango à Paris was filmed, the bridge was rebuilt in 1905, and was name in 1848 after the battle of Bir-Hakeim,by quai de Grenelle. The mysterious Ile aux Cygnes host since 1889 a replica of the Statue of Liberty, take the stairs at the level of the bridge.The legendary Jules Verne at the tower is world renown and the new brasserie is also very good. We move away to another area ,Edgar Quinet, open from 1906, in the Montparnasse area, where you can see the famous Cimetiere de Montparnasse with final resting of Samuel Beckett,Charles Baudelaire, etc. at 3 blvd Edgar Quinet.Try a nice meal and drink at La Cerisaie, 70 blvd Edgar Quinet. Move over to Corvisart, open in 1906, after the personal doctor of Napoleon Ier ,in the village of Gentilly ,annexed of Paris in 1860. Here you see the pool or piscine de la Butte-aux-Cailles, done in 1924,and one of the oldest in Paris. You come around the working class villas or Villes Ouvrieres like petite Russie, petite Alsace taking rue Bobillot the rue Simonet to reach the main area street at rue des Cinq Diamants, take north to the rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles, take a break at Square Brassai then continue to passage sigaud, rue Daviel, etc. you have beautiful house gardens around rue de Tolbiac, rue de moulins-des-prés rue henri pape, rue dieulafoy, just lovely. Have a coffee break at Havana Cafe, 70bis blvd Auguste Blanqui. Chez Paul, 22 rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles.
We have arrive at that other gare, Bercy, also annexed to Paris in 1860; the station opened in 1909. the viaduc of the metro with a lenght of 171 meters was done with metallic tablet in 41 arcades, the station Bercy is attached to line 14 when it opened in 1998. The wonderful palais omnisports de Bercy, open in 1984, with a room of 55k sq meters and up to 17k seated seats for concerts events etc. The parc de Bercy, with 14 hectares is one of the biggest in Paris right next to Bercy Village. The wonderful parc passarelle simone de Beauvoir linking the parc de Bercy with the Bibliothéque Nationale. Have a glass at Le Bercy, 118 rue Bercy. LE 51, at the wonderful Cinémathéque at 51 rue de Bercy equally good.
Fondest memory: when necessary better to walk
After having worked in Paris, and living nearby for 8 years, I am amaze at the number of people coming from places where there is no subway.metro:tube and gladly jump in into the Paris metro and rave about it back home. Like it was a tourist attractions; well I like to tell some historical stories of the Paris metro. It all started with the idea of hosting the Universal Expo of 1900, so to be ready work on the metro began in 1897. Tonite I will talk about line 5 of the Metro de Paris.
It was the first north south axis of Paris well before line 4. Linking Seine Saint Denis with place d’Italie, the viaduc d’Austerlitz was built between 1903-1904 but it was the viaduc du Quai de la Rapée that took the most work built between 1903-1906. It took the line 2 Sud in 1907, and enlarge to the gare du NOrd, in 1942 it becames too long so it was divided to line 6, and on 1985 the new stop at Bobigny is done.
First we take flight at Porte de Pantin, my old stopping point into Paris ,I used to come by car from Meaux and parked by the church there then took the metro into Paris proper from 1990! The station only openned in 1942!!! Here is the famous Parc de la Villette, 55 hectares of unique places and acts, in an old slaugherhouse last done so in 1977,you can entereed at 211 avenue Jean Jaurés; see the Grande Halle, the main slaughterhouse where today great expo are held. See the Fontaine aux lions de Nubie, done in 1811 ; the cows used to refresh themselves here and today its the people who does in front of the Grande Halles, the magnificent Cité des sciences et de l’universe, activities for all at 30 avenue Corentin Cariou, www.cite-sciences.fr You go on to la Geode with a screen of 1000 meters to see films at 180° at 26 avenue Corentin Cariou, www.lageode.fr ; move on to the cité de la musique, all kinds of music at 221 avenue jean Jaurés ,www.cite-musique.fr and see the Musée de la musique inside the Cité. You should have a glass at Cafe de la Musique inside the Cité, or go to a concert at the famous Zenith, www.zenith-paris.com and the wonderful nightclub le Cabaret Sauvage at www.cabaretsauvage.com One of my favorites eateries is Le Boeuf Couronné at 188 avenue Jean Jaurés.
We moved on to Ourq, yes the famous canal de l’Ourq built in the 19C and finish n 1821! for more than 110 kms, the metro station was opened in 1947. See the Canal by the Bassin de la Villette,21 quai de la Loire, that takes you all the way to Meaux (the town of my wife). See the unique protestant church of Saint Serge de Radogéne ,built in 1861 , that in 1924 became a Russian orthodox church at 93 rue de Crimée. the old night L’Escale at 133 avenue Jean Jaurés is tops. Continue our trip to Jaurés, open in 1903 named rue d’Allemagne ,when the war was declared in 1914 it was change to a young mane Jean Jaurés that was just assassinated by a student, his newspaper L’humanité founded in 1904, so the station took his name. See here the Rotonde de Ledoux, one of several built to charge the tax to enter merchandise into paris from 1784, see it at place de la bataille de stalingrad. Bassin de la Villette, done to link the canal de l’Ourq to Canal Saint Martin in 1808, see it by quai de Seine and quai de la Loire. see the historic place of charcoal mariners at Au Rendez-vous de la marine, 14 quai de la Loire.
We go now to the ever popular Gare du Nord, building started in 1842 and was finally done in 1965!!!; The trains were going since 1846, it was the first railroad network in France. From 1994, it houses the Eurostar coming from England, the metro was opened in 1907. See the magnificent hospital of Hôpital Lariboissiére done in 1846 to stop the sickness of the time cholera, at 2 rue Ambroise, then move on to La Goutte d’Or et Barbés-Rochechouart, a wonderful district of La Goutte d’Or, get a glass at the Brasserie Terminus Nord inside the hotel at 23 rue de Dunkerque, plenty of ethnic restos in the area. You move over to Oberkampf, named after a tanner from Bavaria, Germany and created the fabrication of bricks imprinted in copper from 1759,he was French citizen since 1770.It later moved to Jouy-en-Josas near Versailles and the building still there I can vouch for it. Plenty of used items and flea market stores at Rue du Marché-Popincourt where there is a market today. See the unmistable Cafe Bataclan at 50 blvd de Voltaire done from 1864 ,www.bataclan.fr We reach the next train station too at Gare d’Austerlitz, name after a famous battle of Dec 2 1805 by Napoleon Ier. It is an open above ground station, behind the great glass enclosure of the train station, a work of art of 50 meters to raise the station over the river Seine, . IT was first call Gare d’Orleans, and renamed in 1930 the Gare d’Orléans-Austerlitz. It was the heading station of the old line Compagnie Paris-Orleans (PO) that with 6 companies form the today SNCF from 1938.In 1985, it simply became the Gare d’Austerlitz. See here the galerie de Paleontologie et d’anatomie comparée du jardin des plantes, done from 1898, ,this gallery of stone and metal is 80 meters long, see at 57 rue Cuvier. The wonderful Viaduc d’Austerlitz link the station with the metro, so big that when paris was besieged it was use to built zeppelins/ the viaduc was built from 1903-1904. Have a glass at Austerlitz Cafe, 4 blvd de l’hôpital, have a look at the unique Cité de la Mode et du Design, building from 1907, the museum done in 2011 to showcase French fashion.
We arrive at the end ,Place d’Italie, it was named because here ended the Roman road from Lyon. And until the 19c the barrier that was tax free after you enter Paris you paid. The station was opened in 1906. see the Temple Antoiniste, several streets ends here and here is the antoniste movement hq, see at 34 rue Vergniaud, ; the great shopping center ,centre commercial Italie 2 is unique in inner Paris, at 30 avenue Italie. See the wonderful Butte aux Cailles,see the wooden houses at 10 rue Daviel and towards rue du Moulin des Prés, passage Boiton, and rue Barrault. The piscine butte aux cailles, done in 1924; its the oldest pool in Paris. temp kept at 28°C constant. See the unique puits artésian de la place Paul Verlaine, pure water from a well 582 meters deep, built from 1863, and to the service of Parisien since 1904; today a plaque tells you the story, at place Paul Verlaine. Here you come to the Supermarché Tang Fréres, 48 avenue d’Ivry, for all your Asiatic needs. Even a Chinese McDonalds at 1 avenue de Choisy. and a Church at Eglise Notre Dame de Chine, at 27 avenue de Choisy. Get a taste of a master at Boulangerie-pâtisserie Laurent Duchêne , 2 rue Wurtz. My favorite here is Les Cailloux, 58 rue des Cinq Diamants, www.lescailloux.fr
Enjoy the 5éme.
Fondest memory: when necessary walk is best
Tonite I will talk about line 4 of the Paris metro.
It links the north and the south of Paris, the line built starting in 1908 and not all station connected until 1910. The line was enlarged in 1977 with the station Les Halles ,dug 30 meters deep to accommodate the RER train line. And again in 2013 to the mairie de montrouge.
I pick to begin the porte de Clignancourt, annexed to Paris in 1860. It belongs to the abbey Saint Denis and eventually abbey of Montmartre. You have a small cementary St Ouen at 69 ave Michelet where lies Alphonse Allais and Suzanne Valadon. then we move on to the flea market, its huge, the marché aux puces de Saint Ouen . The fame resto Le Picolo 58 rue jules vallés is very nice to drink a small glass of white wine or picolo since 1919! My favorites markets marché malik,marché Biron,Marché Vernaison,,and marché Dauphine. We go inside Paris to Etienne Marcel, line open in 1908 named after the prevost of merchants: You can see the vertiges of the middle ages at the Arbre à liége, 10 rue Tiquetonne. See the wonderful tour de Jean-Sans-Peur ,duke of Burgundy that remains of the hotel de bourgogne, at 20 rue Etienne Marcel. See another Passage du Bourg-l’abbé open from 1827, see at 120 rue Saint Denis. And insist to go to the passage Grand-Cerf at 145 rue Saint Denis, 113 meters long with 12 meters high full of elegant boutiques, and it was here that the carriages coming from the east of France had its terminal. Grand is the Patisserie stôhrer with the best baba rhum in Paris since 1730! the pastry maker to the king of Poland for which the famous cake was invented.
Moving on to Les Halles, the belly of Paris, the food market of the city since Philippe Auguste times!!!In 1851 Napoleon III ask Baltard to do them in metal, finally the market moves to Rungis, and here it becomes the Forum des Halles ,again renovated and enlarge today. See eglise or church of Saint Eustache built from 1532 to 1667AD, and the patron saint of the hunters,and after having an encounter with the deer Louis XIV had his first communion here.2 impasse saint eustache ,nearby the nice fountaine des innocents at the corner of rue saint denis and rue berger,, serve as model for the famous Wallace fountains. Have a drink at the Le Saint Eustache, 14 rue de montmartre, ,and of course the Forum des Halles for its many stores.
You come now to the center, Cité ,the line was open first, then the station open in 1910.It was with republique the first station dotted with elevators! in 1911; the frozen of the seine to -25C, and the stairs needed to bileveled them 13 meters! An architectural marvel underground. You have the magnificient Cathedrale de Notre Dame, built bet the 12-14C, beautiful decoration and a front portal showing the hell entrance to the left and the heaven entrance to the right. There is a rosace of 10 meters in diameter under the galeries des rois, and do not miss the Trésor or treasure room. Parvis de Notre Dame,pl Jean Paul II as it is now call. Here is the point zero of distances in France done from 1924. The marvelous Sainte Chapelle, tohost the relics of Christ, a must to see at 4 blvd du Palais. The Conciergerie, old palace of the Cité, the wonderful tour de horloge, the first public clock in France,inside the biggest gothic room in Europe! not to mention last living place of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. See the wonderful palais de justice,the old section of the royal palace of the cité, built around the year 1000AD It has 4 hectares in land, 24 kms of hallways,7000 doors, and 3150 windows ! See it all at blvd du palais. Not to missed the side streets such as 10 rue Chanoinesse, two lovers met here Heloise and Abélard in the house of uncle Fubert. and at 1 rue des Ursins see the pastiche of medieval houses done in 1960. Have a glass and see the world go by at Brasserie Les Deux Palais, 3 blvd du Palais, take a look at the librarie Shakespeare and Co.37 rue de la Bucherie. A wonderful old section of Paris even if heavily touristic.
We come now to Saint Michel , he is shown facing the devil or satan in the fountain statue at the crossing of place saint michel quai grands augustins, quai et blvd Saint MIchel; the station open in 1910. Of course see the fountain built in 1860; see the wonderful library ,one of my favorites Gibert Jeune at the pl saint michel and the other at 26-34 blvd saint michel. Have a drink at the Le rive Gauche, in the plaza or Saint severin at http://www.saintseverin.com/ see since 1957 great musicals at Théatre de la Huchette at 23 rue de la Huchette Move over to Odéon, station open in 1910. the site of the théatre français in 1779 and takes the current name in 1797, you can see in the station, at the platform direction porte de clignacourt a bust of Danton, marking the site where he live during the French revolution. A nice building here full of fish decor is Fish La Boissonnerie, at 69 rue de Seine. The wonderful court de Rohan by the rue du Jardinet or the cour du Commerce Saint-André, Rohan for Rouen the building of the bishop of Rouen,here Henri II had stayed his favorite Diane de Poitiers, and find a tower of the time of Philippe Auguste. Going over to the cour du Commerce Saint André, see houses from the 18C at No 9 lived M Guillotin the inventor of the deadly headless machine, go in by blvd Saint Germain. a nice old walking tour is to take on rue Séguier, git-le-coeur and rue suger, narrow street and low hanging houses as like time has not change them at all. The frightful Musée Dupuytren, 15 rue de l’Ecole de Médécine, done in 1835 at the old convent of cordeliers the pathological examples of medicine and pieces of corps in jars!!! moving right along see the Musée d’Histoire de la Médecine at 12 rue de l’Ecole de la Médécine. Do not missed the Odéon Théatre de l’Europe at pl de l’Odéon and see the holes of bullets from WWII during the liberation of Paris. See the erotic gestures in front of you in the rive gauche de Paris: at Théatre érotique Chochotte, 34 rue Saint andré-des-arts. Have a glass at Le Danton, 103 blvd Saint Germain, Café de l’Odéon, and my favorite the Le Comptoir du Relais, carrefour de l’odéon. Do not missed the chocolates of Georges Larnicol for a taste of Bretagne in Quimper at 132 blvd Saint GErmain.
We arrive at Saint-Germain-des-Prés, from 555AD St GErmain built the first abbey here.The relics of king Childebert the son of Clovis are kept here.See the wonderful Pont des Arts, the first bridge in Paris done in iron from 1801. See the wonderful library La Hune, 170 blvd st germain, L’ecume des pages at 174 blvd saint germain its one of the most respected in Paris the reference of librarians. The fame and prestigious Institut de France, 23 quai Conti, done from 1663 by Le Vau, see the spectacular dome of Quatre Nations, and like me that went in and had meeting at the famous salon Victor Hugo, where he gave lectures. many famous here the Café de Flore,Les Deux Magots,and Chez LIpp, I rather sip a coffee at Emporio Caffé, 149 blvd Saint Germain. Moving on to Saint Sulpice , built the church from 1211AD and the famous Da Vinci code was done here, the station open in 1910. There is a nice theater here, Théatre du Vieux Colombier from 1913 at 21 rue du vieux colombier, it is an annex of the Comédie Française; enjoy a drink at Café Saint Sulpice at 127 rue de Rennes.
We arrive at my meeting place and entry point into Paris today, Montparnasse-Bienvenue station. The mont parnasse was a small hill, the station was first call Maine on line 5, then add the name of Bienvenue in 1933 to that of the train station it is today montparnasse. You have the museum of the post office here, 34 blvd du Vaugirard, and the better musée Bourdelle at 18 rue Antoine Bourdelle a disciple of Rodin. See high up the train station the jardin de l’Atlantique done in 1995 in the form of a great cruise ship. Go up to another look of Paris from above, the Tour Montparnasse done in 1973 with 59 floors and 25 elevators, the one from ground floor to the 56 platform can do in 38 seconds! The Cafe Montparnasse at pl 18 juin 1940 is great for a drink, the Pizza Pino, and the Le Plom du Cantal at 3 rue de la Gaité is wonderful. Move on to Vavin, station open in 1910. See La Coupole an old burnwood depot turn into Brasserie in 1927,and the rest is history. Le Select at 99 bvld Montparnasse, La Rotonde, 105 bd montparnasse, and Cubana Cafe for Cuban food,and Hacienda del Sol for Mexican food the real one in Paris.
We continue on to Raspail ,line open in 1906. here you have the fondation Cartier at 261 blvd Raspail, and the equally famous cementary of Montparnasse there since 1924 with great names such as Sartre,de Bouvoir,Gainsbourg,Baudelaire, Kessel, etc entry 3 blvd Edgar Quinet. See the wonderful La Closerie des Lilas at 171 blvd du montparnasse. We arrive at Denfert-Rochereau, it marked the distance between the via superior (today rue st jacques) and it via inferior (as the barrier to hell), name after a resistance fighter n the war of 1870 at the Belfort where the lion symbol represent the heroisme shown there. The station is one of the first ones tohave mechanical stairs. See the Villa Adrienne English style by 19 ave du General Leclerc, Villa Hallé, like been in the country, by rue hallé. See the Lion of Belfort statue, a reproduction to the one found in the citadelle at Belfort done by Bartholdi in 1879 (same as he who did the statue of liberty for NYC) see at pl denfert-rochereau. A souvenir of the barrier of hell is the Pavillons Ledoux, here we pay to get into the city,and today is the entrance to the catacombes, to do a bone resting place since the 18C with 130 steps down Paris, about 6 million dead are here,by 1 avenue d Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy. Finally see the Observatoire founded by Colbert in 1167AD and today the heart of French astronomy research at 77 avenue Denfert-Rochereau. I have stop for a cafe and drink at Café le Paris Orléans at 129 ave du gen leclerc.
Fondest memory: when necessary walk is best
After having worked in Paris, and living nearby for 8 years, I am amaze at the number of people coming from places where there is no subway.metro:tube and gladly jump in into the Paris metro and rave about it back home. Like it was a tourist attractions; well I like to tell some historical stories of the Paris metro.
Paris has 14 metro lines so far, and it was not the first one to have one. It all started with the idea of hosting the Universal Expo of 1900, so to be ready work on the metro began in 1897. Today I will talk about line 3 of the metro de Paris.
It goes from Pont de Levallois-Bécon (Levallois-Perret) to Galliani(Bagnolet); ironic its not the third line bu the fifth line of the metro de Paris. It open by sections from October 19 1904, and it later added a side line call the ligne 3bis by Gambetta. It was the first line to have steel rails in use still today. It also, has one of the phantom stations in Paris at HAXO,built in 1921 but never open to the public.
We skip and hop to Wagram, one of the historic moments of Napoleon Ier in 1809. It has picturesques streets such as that of rue Fortuny, after a Spanish painter ,see No 8, 22 ,and 35 for architecture marvels. Also go to 134 avenue de Villiers for the example of the stairs in pins architecture. This is the area where I shop for the house, for my father’s Spanish groceries at Cap Hispania, 23 rue Jouffroy D’Abbans, wonders of Spain. Have a glass and chat at Le Central, 65 rue Prony or a nice drink and meal at Brasserie Royal Villiers, 4 pl de Champerret. Move on over to nearby Malesherbes, he was the defender of the king during the process of the convention of 1792, and cause him to be guillotine as well; full name Chrétien Guillaume de Lamoignon de Malesherbes. Here see the imposing Hôtel Gaillard (the Banque de France) building built between 1878-1884 modeled after the Chateau de Blois in the Loire, it is at 1 pl du Général Catroux. At this plaza, place du Général Catroux biult in 1862 and named in 1977 after the general that sided with Charles de Gaulle, you will find the statues of Alexandre Dumas, father and Sarah Bernhardt. Nearby find the musée Jean-Jacques Henner, the alsacien painter that is house in the shop of painter Dubufe at 43 avenue de Villiers. Here have a meal and glass at Dôme de Villiers, 4 ave de Villiers. Moving in to known quarters at Havre-Caumartin, name after the city of Le Havre and the merchant Caumartin who help clean up Paris from 1774-1784. You will see the nice church of eglise Saint Louis d’Antin, it was before the chapel of the convent of capucins now the lycee Concordet (high school by gare st lazare). it is at 63 rue de Caumartin. You have the works of arts such as the L’Heure pour tous d’Arman, many clocks mounted on each other to create a tower at the parvis de la gare st lazare. Nearby you have the famous dept store Galeries Lafayette, and Au Printemps. One of my favorites in the city to eat and drink is the Le Clos Bourguignon, 39 rue Caumartin. You ,also, now have a nice cafe at le Deli-cieux on top of the store au Printemps on the 9th floor. We arrive at my old working area of Paris, metro Opéra, the building was done by Charles Garnier by order of Napoleon III. Therefore known at the Opéra Garnier, a jewel done in 1874. On top of it you have the best honey of Paris ,where you can buy them at nearby fancy Fauchon pl de la Madeleine. Nearby you have the Opéra Comique built by order of Louis XIV burned in 1838, rebuilt from 1840, where George Bizet works triumphs.at 5 rue Favart. The unique musée de la Parfumerie Fragonard at 9 rue Scribe is another interesting place to visit. You have an interesting stockmarket type drinking establishement at Footsie’s rue Daunou, as well as Cafe du Cadran.
We move on to the real stockmarket of old at Bourse, The palais Brongniart, built from 1808, with a glass dome of 25 meters high, it now host every year the famous le revue du vins de France wine tasting event in may, 28 pl de la Bourse. Nearby the church Basilique Notre Dame des Victoires an old augustin convent where it was the chapel open with Louis XIII in 1629AD; it was the last bastion of the Protestant huguenots that left after the French revolution; it was the site of the National Lottery of France, then stockmarket of the directoire, and back to the religious cult in 1802 to this day. it is a high rite of pelegrinage today and one of its attendant was St Theresa de Lisieux. You ,also, have the Galeries Vivienne et Colbert near ,built from 1823 and 1826 respectively. One of the classic of Paris is here Brasserie Gallopin, from 1876; great eatery at 40 rue Notre Dame des Victoires; another is the Le Truskel, 12 rue Feydau, high lieu of rock and roll to early hours of the morning, and Le Social Club,142 rue de Montmartre, where Clemenceau publish the I accuse of Emile Zola, now a high temple of electro rock music.
We move on to Réaumur-Sébastopol, previous name of Rue Saint Denis was renamed in 1907. You see the architecture of the building at 51 rue Réaumur, the old store of Felix Potin today the HQ of Monoprix. You can see the Passage de la Trinité after an old orphanage ,go in by 21 rue de palestro or 164 rue Saint Denis. The house or maison of Nicolas Flamel it is said to be built from 1407 and consider today as the oldest in Paris, see at 51 rue de Montmorency. We move quickly to Arts et Métiers, where one of the oldest wooden escalators are still in use. See the wonderful Musée des Arts et Métiers inside the old abbey of Saint Martin des Champs, closed after the French revolution ,over 8000 objects awaits your curiosity inside,at 60 rue Réaumur. Have a drink at the Le Royal Beaubourg, 105 rue Beaubourg, and have some nice shopping at the Marché des Enfants Rouges by 39 rue Bretagne;,name after an old orphanage that was there and house the kids in red sheets.
You now come to my neck of the woods at night, République, the station has five correspondance stations, tops together with Chatelet. it is at the same spot of the old porte du Temple on the old ramparts of Charles V, then it was named Place du Château d’Eau, the first fountain was put there in 1811; after it was the site of radical and socialists to come to celebrate the Republic here, and on 1878 the Paris council decided to name it Republique, the statue on the center measures 10 meters with a pedestal of 15,5 meters, all was done on July 14 1883. Most manifestations or strikes in Paris takes this as central stage today. At is see the passage Vendôme it is 57 meters long and built in 1827, linking the streets blvd du Temple to the convent des Filles Saint Sauveur, right at the plaza or by 16-18 rue Béranger. Many places around here, Casa de Campo at Temple is nice ::) you have the théatre le Temple concert hall since 1792!!! at 18 rue du Faubourg du Temple, the café théatre de la République, 23 pl de la République, Théatre Dejazet, built in 1851 ,41 blvd du Temple, and the nightclub Le Gibus since 1967 at 18 rue du Faubourg du Temple. The classic here is Chez Jenny, alsacien decor from 1930 ,great food at 39 blvd du Temple,and Favela Chic, Brazilians moves and menu at 18 rue du Faubourg du Temple.
Slow down by Gambetta, after Leon Gambetta who was a great politician and came to proclaim the Republique at the Hotel de Ville in 1870. AT November 11 1920 his heart is at the Panthéon. You see the nice fountaine de la place gambetta, have a drink at Bar du Metro, 10 pl Gambetta, do some shopping for fine foods at La Campagne à Paris, 210 rue des Pyrénées, get another shot of wine at Chez Betty, 14 ave du Pére Lachaise ,and see drama from the 20C at Théatre de la colline,15 rue Malte Brun. Further on at Galliani, you find the terminal of the inter European Eurolines bus company.
Fondest memory: when necessary walk is best
After having worked in Paris, and living nearby for 8 years, I am amaze at the number of people coming from places where there is no subway.metro:tube and gladly jump in into the Paris metro and rave about it back home. Like it was a tourist attractions; well I like to tell some historical stories of the Paris metro.
Paris has 14 metro lines so far, and it was not the first one to have one. It all started with the idea of hosting the Universal Expo of 1900, so to be ready work on the metro began in 1897. Today, I will talk about line 2; open december 13, 1900. It has four above ground stations, for more than 2 kms. These are Barbés-Rochechouart, La chapelle,Stalingrad, and Jaurés. It has ,also, the biggest metro tragedy when in 1903 more than 80 persons died after a fire in one of the rails lines.
First let get on to Porte Dauphine,,name after marie antoinette,yes the one queen;where she was young stayed at the chateau de la muette (yes that area of Paris,castle now gone),the line open in december 13,1900. The best here is the omnipresent bois de boulogne done b Philippe le Bel in 1301AD. Here you have the Persian pavillion of the Universal Expo of 1889 by 11 rue des Sablons. Nearby is the nice Jardin Shakespeare in which you find the fine restaurant Pré Catalan at route de la reine marguerite. You ,also can have a drink at one of my favorites cafe Victor Hugo at 4 pl Victor Hugo. Go on to Ternes, a deform way of writing Villa Externa or external village controlled by the bishop of paris in the middle ages, later it became known as Estern and then Ternes facing the villa episcopa, by 1860 this area was annexed to Paris. The original FNAC store is here ,great architecture from 1912,see it at 28 avenue Niel. You see the nice Cathedrale Alexandre Nevski, by 12 rue Daru or the area of Little Russia (many immigrants after the Russian revolution of 1917 came here). Move over to Monceau, it was the outside limits on the west of Paris then in 1300AD, called Mousseaux;the area developed by the Duke of Chartres, it is one of the prized areas of Paris, later the Rothschild family came in as well as the heirs of chocolate Menier.It open as metro in october 7 1902. The magnificent parc Monceau is here, with a rotonda of 16 columns that came from the walls of the fermiers généraux, main entrance by blvd de Courcelles. At 25 rue de Chazelles, the statue of liberty was done,now proudly standing in New York city harbor. There is an interesting museum in Musée Nissim de Camondo, of decorative arts, see it at 63 rue de monceau. Have a drink at Dôme de Villiers at 4 ave de Villiers.
Coming in to Porte de Clichy, here you go to one of my favorites at Cercle Clichy Montmartre, 84 rue de Clichy, brasserie from 1947,where you can play poker and pool/billiards. Close by is the cimetiére montmartre at 23 rue de Damrémont, to see Truffaut,Dalida,Offenbach,Nijinski amongst others resting there. The bistro de Dames, 18 rue de dames is very nice mediteranean cuisine. Going to Blanche, for the whites of the gypsy clay stones on the quarries of Montmartre. You see the unique church Chapelle Sainte Rita, the patron saint of prostitutes at 65 blvd de Clichy. Also the exotique musée de l’Erotisme at 72 blvd de Clichy,and who would come and not see the Moulin Rouge cabaret at least once. My visit here is to try the other branch of O’Sullivan pub at 92 blvd de clichy. Move over to Stalingrad, name after the fame battle of WWII in Russia, it open as metro in 1903. Here better go over to the canals and the cinemas MK2 at 14 quai de la Seine, or have a drink at Cote Canal, 5 quai de la Seine. Quickly move on to Belleville, where the name has a street and an avenue of same name. In 1860 it was attached to Paris, going up by rue de Belleville you reach one of the highest point in Paris at 128 meters high. You see the Eoliennes de Belleville with a superb view of the city at the top of parc de Belleville going up by the rue Piat. At the regard saint Martin you still can collect potable water, you go by the rue des cascades; take a look at the cimetiére de Belleville at the angle of rue de belleville and rue du télégraphe. Here at 40 rue du Télégraphe you will see a plaque telling you are at Paris highest point. Here is great for spices, at Maison Safraoui, 31 blvd de la Villette, ro la Caire Belleville at 63 rue de belleville,and have a glass of wine at the Chapeau Melon, 92 rue Rébeval.
Continue to Menilmontant, from the word mesnil or small farm and mauvais temps or mesnil montant from the unduling bends on the roads here. Also came to be part of Paris in 1860. For me here is the Musée Edith Piaf, 5 rue crespin du gast, of the great French singer, the head for antillean specialties from the Caribbean at boutique et resto chez max, 16 blvd de belleville. And we reach the end Pére Lachaise , for me that is ,named after François d’Aix de la Chase, confessor to Louis XIV built in 1803, it is a city within a city really. Need a book to walk all of it. In ironic here was installed the first mechanical stair in 1909 to carry quicker ….The cimetiére du Pére-Lachaise is 44 hectares and many famous rest here. 16 rue du repos is main entrance. A nice Indian spices store here is Le bateau de Safran,9 villa Riberolle. Villa Riberolle an old impasse road of Paris really nice to walk by try the main house at 35 rue de Bagnolet.
Well given you the main stations I think of this line of the Metro de Paris.
Fondest memory: only when necessary walk is better