Galleries & Passages, Paris

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Just a block and a half from the Hôtel Louvre Bons Enfants, between rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs and rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, there is an elegant nineteenth-century passage called Galerie Véro-Dodat with wood-panelled shop fronts, black marble columns and paintings on the ceiling.

The Galerie was quite deserted on the evening we walked through (and the pleasant-looking restaurant was closed), but in the nineteenth century this must have been a lively place. Just opposite the entrance to the Galerie Véro-Dodat, on rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, was the main departure point for the horse-drawn stage coaches or diligences of the company called “Lafitte et Caillard”, which in the 1820s and 30s developed a solid reputation for speed and punctuality.

As Victor Hugo wrote in his novel Les Misérables: “We flee in the arms of Laffitte and on the wings of Caillard. We dash along at full speed, at a rate of three leagues an hour.”

That would be twelve kilometers an hour in today’s terms, but Victor Hugo would turn over in his grave (in the Panthéon) if he heard me saying that, because he was a fierce opponent of the metric system.

In those days the shops in the Galerie Véro-Dodat used to open at five in the morning to serve the passengers of the first stage coaches leaving for cities all over France. Smoking was not allowed in the stage coaches, by the way, and prices were often quite affordable because of the ruinous competition between rival stage-coach companies.

Vélib’ 1012
48°51'45.49" North, 2°20'26.74" East
Métro Louvre Rivoli

Next review from January 2012: Grand Palais

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Strange to find this passage in the very chic avenue Victor Hugo, almost unknown and very difficult to find much info about the place. It's already unusual to find a brick-fronted building in the 16th, let alone on this avenue. Constructed in 1904 on two levels, apparently to make it more viable, for the account of a Senor Mayol de Senillosa, an Argentine. So now we know where the name comes from!!! Quite light and airy inside although not many people. As there didn't seem much going on I didn't venture upstairs. The most interesting shop is the "Bal Masqué" where you can hire your costumes for the Carnival or a fancy dress do.

Found at : 111 avenue Victor Hugo, Paris 75016.

Victor Hugo is the closest metro.

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Another passage of luxury, first opened in 1845 by the same company that owned Passage Jouffroy. One of the shortest of the covered passages in Paris (only 53 metres), it owes much to its natural lighting and also to the fact that one of the oldest restaurants of Paris, Lucas Carton, had its place here.

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The cité Berryer, now known as the passage Royale was first driven through here in 1745 when the marché d'Aguesseau was moved here and named passagedu marché d'Aguesseau. Apparently butchers, both beef and pork, at end where it touches rue Boissy d'Anglas, and fishmongers, bakers and fruitsellers at the opposite end near rue Royale. Renamed Cité Berryer in 1877 after a well-known politician. Renovated just 20 years ago, it has been turned into a very "chic" place to be seen, mainly by well-heeled tourists rather than Parisians.

With a large and rich history in glass manufacturing, Baccarat is a respected name. If you pass by the United States square, you may enter and see a couple of great pieces, well displayed in a beautiful palace. I must confess That I expected more, and took a morning expressly to go there.

Somewhat disappointed, but I didn't regret the time.

Why do they forbid to take pictures inside? There's no risk to the pieces, and copying models will not be stopped nor limited by boring the tourists!

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Being built in 1799/1800 Passage des Panoramas is almost the oldest of Parisian passages still in existence (oldest being passage du Caire) others built in the 1700's all having been demolished or built over. Passage des Panoramas is known for its shops and collections of stamps and postcards, so if you want a p/c that dates, this is the place to come. The world famous engraver Stern's shop is on the list of historic monuments whilst the passage is described in Hugo's book "Nana".

Nearest metro is Grands Boulevards or Richelieu-Drouot.

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Well known to Parisians this passage was opened in 1845 and was the first passage constructed entirely in iron and glass, and is also the first to have underfloor heating. Well placed between passages Verdeau and Panorama it also has the entrance to the Parisian equivalent of Mme Tussauds, Musee Grevin that was inaugurated in 1882. Frederic Chopin lived in the house where the "Hotel Chopin" is situated up on the 5th floor around 1832/32. Just in front of the entrances to the hotel and Musee Grevin is a staircase built to overcome differences in levels probably due to the ancient moat and walls of Louis XIII passing close by.

Nearest metro is Grands Boulevards or Richelieu-Drouot.

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Ancestors of the big malls, this passages are galleries along corridors, connecting streets and providing covered access to several shops.

There are many in Paris, still with the old functionality, and some of them really beautiful.

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This passage, built in 1847 at the same time as its counterpert, passage Jouffroy and by the same company has always suffered by not being close enough to the "Grands Boulevards" although it did take off for a while when the "Hotel Drouot", the Sothebys of Paris, opened its doors close by. A good many antique dealers then set up here. The old photographic shop has been there since 1901.

Richelieu-Drouot is the nearest metro.

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One of the most used and loved of the Parisian passages, Passage Choiseul has practically not changed in almost 200 years, even the entrance canopies,although slightly battered, are the originals since 1825. At 190 metres it is one of the longest in Paris. Having a secondary entrance into the theatre "Les Bouffes Parisiens" helps to maintain a certain ambiance in the passage. Owned once by Offenbach the theatre is now the property of French actor Jean-Claude Brialy. Main entrances are at 40 rue des Petits-Champs and 23 rue St. Augustin.

Closed on Sundays.

Closest metro is Pyramides or Quatre-Septembre